This video shows how I make eye punches for animal heads. I use a forging method called piping where the surface metal is pulled over the core. Enjoy.

Nice powerhammer fixture. Could you show the whole fixture and maybe describe it a wee bit?

Nice vid, do you normalise before you finish grind, file and finish the end, seems in the sequence you normalised after this, can you clarify please.

Nice vid, do you normalise before you finish grind, file and finish the end, seems in the sequence you normalised after this, can you clarify please.

John, I just let the punch cool slowly after forging and it's pretty soft. Then I do the final grinding and and finishing, normalize once or twice before hardening and tempering.

Nice powerhammer fixture. Could you show the whole fixture and maybe describe it a wee bit?

David,

Take a look at this thread. It will show several versions of the taper tool. Should help before ciladog replies.

Brian P

Ciladog,

Thanks for the great video.

Mark <><

Isn't the initial result of what you are doing something some of us refer to as "fishmouth"? Seems to work great whatever it is - I'll try it soon.

Nice video and great technique. I typically taper the stock, followed by normalizing then I chuck in the lathe, face off the tip and run a two flute ball mill into the end. Your way is a good blacksmithing method.

I punched the end after shaping the punch, then ground to intent. I was rather not happy with how the punch upsetted while I was punching it (did that make sense?)

I may have to try this since it is a simple looking technique and appears to provide a better controlled rim.

Phil

Nice powerhammer fixture. Could you show the whole fixture and maybe describe it a wee bit?

Check out this thread.

http://www.iforgeiro...e-power-hammer/

Isn't the initial result of what you are doing something some of us refer to as "fishmouth"? Seems to work great whatever it is - I'll try it soon.

I suppose you could call it a round fishmouth. But that would be an oxymoron.

Nice video thanks for the info.

Phil, I know what you mean. I do the same thing, but leave the end a bit heavier than needed before punching. Then you can grind the excess off to the desired shape and size.

Usually when we're forging we're having a hard time not getting the piping action. Now we can use it!

What was the metal you used? I think a piece of auto lug wrench would do .

What was the metal you used? I think a piece of auto lug wrench would do .

Rusty, that was a piece of coil spring so I assume it was 5160.

John, I just let the punch cool slowly after forging and it's pretty soft. Then I do the final grinding and and finishing, normalize once or twice before hardening and tempering.

Thanks for the clarification.

Check out this thread. http://www.iforgeiro...e-power-hammer/

Dang that was the thread I thought I had included. Sorry for the idiocy on my part.

Great to see someone using a technique(pipeing) based on a result that most people only see as a negative. The use of pipeing to start the mandrel for DOM tubing is something they did back in the teens in industry. I don't know if this is still the process used.
Good video ciladog

Thanks for the lesson, what a cool technique. I can't wait to give it a go.

I tried this today. It is easy to get the piping action, but less easy to control the evenness of the lip that forms. I will need to revisit it after I grind the end off the punch I (poorly) made.

Thank you for the video.

Phil

Phil,

If you keep your hammer blows all the same and keep the punch rotating at the same rate the margins will come out evenly.

thanks ciladog very helpful information,i tried it today and it works great!

thanks very much for the video. I've been scouring the forum for a week now trying to find a better way to accomplish this than the way I tried - driving a ball bearing into a punched spot on the face of the tool. I think this will be much better. Can't wait to try it.