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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by deglen

  1. having problems attaching drawings....sorry.... I've tried multiple times, using firefox and internet explorer, .png and .jpg
  2. arftist - is this what you mean by putting a barrel at each end of a plate? (see drawing), then weld the barrels to the vertical frame and post? Jim - . I appreciate your comment. I have made them all pretty blunt so far but may add knobs later if they don't end up covered up by the upcoming placement of the leaves. It's still a work in progress. My plan was to make the grill busier at the bottom to keep the wandering dogs out. We already have chain link around the garden and the gophers and rabbits still get in, so I figured the best I could do was keep the dogs out. Jeremy K - I looked at it again today and see that if I can't get the hinge spacing to work as is, it would be possible to make a cut on the horizontal frames about 1/2" from the right side vertical (whatever the correct term in fence language is), take out an inch or two and reweld.
  3. couple of in process photos attached
  4. DSW - thanks, I'll check the big industrial suppliers. Jeremy K - alas, the drawing I attached is not the actual design I'm making. I used an old one I had on hand because I have such a hard time doing computer drawing - I only can draw in windows paint. the real design has vines that are shaped to form 'hidden' initials of the groups that support our community garden, so I can't cut into what I have. I wish I had left more room, but I've made a beginner's mistake not to think through all the steps ahead of time. Experience.
  5. thanks to all for the replies. Yes, (to Alan) the drawing dimensions are misleading in that the gaps are actually much smaller than the drawing. I made an inquiry to my local steel supplier for stainless tubing for the gudgeon and the best he had was .049 thick and quite pricey, so I'm thinking that idea won't float - will just make my own with mild steel. I'm going to measure the gap again after the weather clears in hopes that there is actually > 1" . I have not decided on the latch/lock yet.
  6. This project is to replace an existing old chain link entry gate for a volunteer community garden with a fabricated, more artistic one. I would like to use the existing 2 1/4" diameter galvanized posts (see attached drawing) which were placed by a commercial fence company several years ago in what was likely a sufficiently deep hole to prevent frost heaving but only about 8" diameter concrete footer. The inside dimension between the two posts is 49". I made my gate* 48" wide (which may be a problem, I realize now). The gate will weigh approx 150#. My question is the best way to hinge it. I was thinking that pintles would be best given the small gap size available. The left attachment would be a fabricated cylindrical clamp for the hanging post with a simple smaller cylinder welded on to receive the pintle. Is it necessary to use a bearing or cap it and put in a grease zerk? Also, how far apart should the hinges be and how far from the ends? In order to stabilze the gate and reduce the stress on the hanging post, I planned to add a top arch to span the space between the two posts. I welcome your comments and advice. *frame is 1 1/2" square tubing. 'vine' elements are 3/4" round tapered to 1/4". about 40 leaves of 12 gauge will be welded on the vines. gate is 4' x 6'. arch is 2 1/2" x 1/4" flat and letters will be 1" x 1/4" flat bent to shape. thanks.
  7. Sorry I wasn't clearer about what I was meaning. I did make a drawing and tried to upload, but evidently didn't do it correctly. My intent was using two bars twisting in a helical pattern around each other. I did do a trial using two pieces of 18" long, 1/2" round and measured the overall axial length with each rotation, then plotted it on excel and was suprised with results that were pretty linear (my r squared value was .98 for all you math types), and my formula generated showed a .41" decrease with each complete turn. I stopped at 6 turns because it still looked pretty good to the eye, but I know from twisting rope that you reach a point where the room left between twists won't allow the diameter to fit and the rope gets all wankled up. So, my little experiment provided good enough results for me to plan my larger project which was to make a helical twist with two pieces that was a set length with a specific number of revolutions. ps. I'll try to add my original drawing again. - didn't work with .png, .bmp, jpg, or gif, so I conclude I don't know how to add a drawing to the post.
  8. does anyone have a formula or rule for figuring out out much loss of length would result from twisting two equal size round bars set parallel (adjacent to each other) for each complete turn? I thought it might be pi * diameter for each turn, but that assumes no gap and perfect elasticity. thanks
  9. thanks very much for the video. I've been scouring the forum for a week now trying to find a better way to accomplish this than the way I tried - driving a ball bearing into a punched spot on the face of the tool. I think this will be much better. Can't wait to try it.
  10. very nice. What did you use for round stock?
  11. deglen


    Hi James, I am new also. I posted a question about hinges and see that you are a specialist on hinges. How lucky. Is there a way to determine how what type and strength of :confused:hinge will be appropriate for a large gate or is it trial and error (i.e. experience)?
  12. Hi. I am new to blacksmithing and just bought a forge after attending a beginner workshop at New England Metal work last spring. I'd like to make a gate for a drive way. My question is how do I determine the dimensions of the hinge needed for the gate once the design of the gate is set (height, weight, span)? Doug Eglen
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