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N00b questions from Redlands, CA


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Just found the site and have begun to wade through the vast amount of information available. Quite overwhelming.

I've read some books and done some experimenting with drawing, upsetting, annealing, tempering, etc. Still figuring things out, but what I've read is starting to make some sense. Have made a few small items, rings mostly, out of 12-14d nails for stock and small brads/finishing nails for rivets. Not epic by any stretch, but a beginning. I'm getting eager to start upgrading my equipment and start working on bigger stuff. This will probably be a drawn out process since disposable cash is an issue. I do want to get to the point where I can make my own tools out of whatever I can find lying around.

I currently have a couple of odd hammers and a small (15#) cast anvil shaped object I'm beating on metal with. Using a torch for heat right now which is a challenge. I spend more time trying to get stuff hot than I do banging on it, but it's a start.

The noob questions I have:
1) Hot items seem to cool down quickly once they contact the surface of my anvil, which makes sense since it's acting as a big(gish) heat sink. Should I be pre-heating or warming up my anvil before/while I'm working?

2) I'm trying to figure out a better heat source, probably with something on the small end (brake drum size?). I'd like to use it indoors during the winter/inclement weather and I'm worried about ventilation. Assuming I make a hood and ducting, would it be feasible/advisable to run the ducting up to the chimney for my home furnace and run the forge exhaust out that way with a T-connector? I'm assuming that it would be a good idea (if it is feasible) to put some kind of spark barrier in the ductwork.

Thank you in advance for any help/advice anyone can lend.

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Small stuff (diameter) heats quickly and cools just as quickly. Place it on a cold anvil like mass and it will suck the heat your of the metal even faster. Big diameter stock will stay hot a lot longer due to the mass that is heated. This heat also transfers to the anvil. As a newbie that is watching someone use a forge and anvil, DO NOT rest your hand or sit on the anvil. Do not ask how we know these things either.

Do not share flues as they usually do not play well together. You can forge outside at freezing and if you keep moving you can generate your own body heat to stay warm, but the minute you stop, put on clothes or you will chill extremely quickly.

Click here for instructions on build a low cost forge that works, the now famous 55 Forge. It can use raw wood as fuel until you can find a source for other solid fuels.

Find a blacksmithing group or organization near you and attend the meetings. You will jump start your blacksmithing as well as make some great friendships.

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First, welcome to IFI. You have come to a great place to get info and start out. I use a brake drum 55 forge with coal. It is a great way to start.
I would like to caution you on the use of a coal or charcoal fire indoors. I realize that a smithy is usually an enclosed building or at least a three sided one, but ventilation is a must! I forge outside under a tree even in the winter. I will soon have an enclosed smithy but never and I mean NEVER would move the forge into my living quarters. This is just asking for a "big sleep" or "the long blink".
In the colder months I do preheat the anvil by placing a hot piece of plate iron on top and there are many posts on ways to preheat it. Once you get a stabile heat source, gasser or solid fuel fire, constant use will help keep the anvil warm.
I would suggest that you try to find other blacksmiths in your area who can help you get started. They are out there and they are here.

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Thank you all for the advice. I've worked in the cold before (winter sports industry) so it in and of itself doesn't bother me much.

The concerns you expressed about ventilation are exactly why I asked the question - thank you very much for the straight skinny.

I've looked into classes - the nearest one I've found is about an hour away, but very doable if I can work out the scheduling. As to finding a blacksmithing group, I haven't had much luck finding anything close enough I can get to on a regular basis. I've looked at the ABANA site and the CA Blacksmith Assn. Any other ideas that might help me direct my search? Would a blacksmithing group be attached/associated with something like a community college?

Thanks again.

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  • 1 month later...

Just lit my first fire last night. Using an old brake drum I scavenged from Pic-a-Part and a hairdryer for a blower.

Someone in another post mentioned fire management using coal being a challenge. I had no idea until I actually tried working with the stuff. Very rewarding test fire. Will keep working out the bugs and posting results as they come.

Will post a pic as soon as I figure it out on this site.

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Well I would contact the CA group and *ask* them if there are any members out your way. Hmmm they have a member locator page

http://www.calsmith.org/membership/locations/ shows about 4 members in your general area.

Charcoal, real chunk not briquette, is often easier to get started with; burns pretty fast so a hand crank blower is better than a fan unless you control it way down. It still requires MASSIVE ventilation!

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No matter how far away a Cal Smith meeting is !!!! GO To it ! Its a very good place to start and meet smiths near you :<)
there's alot of smiths in sourthern Ca up here IN the real northwestern Ca we are called the Jefferson Smith of northern Ca sourthern Or we are spread around a bit most meetting are a 4 Hr mim drive for me & yes I still drop tools and go !
there just so much Info & hands on @ the meeting not to go :<) Just Like the IforgeIron & Anvilfire site,s

I THANK all the Smiths out there for that !

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Welcome!
look into Adam's Forge in LA. They offer educational opportunities. As others have said, join CBA! It will be some of the best money you ever spent. There are many members that hold open forge time and classes for all levels of smithing. I don't know when the next spring conference will be help in Vista, Ca. but if your within 200 miles and are interested in Blacksmithing, it is not to be missed. I've travelled over 600 to go. The gas and steam museum is worth the trip alone.

One suggestion if you are using a torch for heat, get half a dozen fire brick and pile them to make a small area to reflect heat back into the work, say 2-3 bricks on the bottom then 1 brick on edge at both sides, forming a small "U" shape. works really well for heating small work.

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The idea is to get to one meeting and find folks you can carpool with to the others thus cutting down transportation costs and making the trip more fun.

We had a 2 hour drive to get from Columbus OH to Troy OH for the Sofa meetings but we would put half a dozen of us in a friends van and stop at a fleamarket on the way (as well as for roadkill4ed metal!) Had a great time!

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Thank you everyone.

I just got some real coal that I'm trying to work with. Like I said, it's a bit of a challenge, but I'm getting there, and you are right about the burn rate - it goes pretty quickly, faster than I expected.

I'm working on a way to mount the blower with some kind of valve to control the airflow better. The dryer has two settings - too fast and WAY too fast.

I've gotten in touch with a guy out here in Yucaipa that is supposed to be doing a class in the next few weeks. There is a place in Yucca Valley that does classes more regularly. It's a bit of a drive, but doable if I've got an open Saturday when they hold them. I'm very interested in getting some guidance and learn some lessons from someone else rather than trying to teach myself. ;)

Vista is a fairly reasonable drive. I will keep an eye out for the date and try to get there. From what I've read, they sound like quite a bit of fun, and I will go if the scheduling works out. Unfortunately, the kids' activities have a bit more priority than Dad's hobbies when it comes down to brass tacks. :)

Now if I can only find a decent anvil at a price I can afford...

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Please note that the London pattern anvil got it's final feature---the pritchel hole--- in the 1820's, while a big cubic chunk of metal has been used for an anvil from at least Roman times *through* the current day. So 2000 years vs 200 years, which is a "decent anvil"?

I often use an anvil based on a Roman one in the museum at Bath England---preferentially for some tasks and I have a number of "decent anvils" to hand.

One I used for my "US$25 starter kit" was the broken knuckle off a train car coupler---it had a flat section and a curved section, weighed about 80 pounds and was *free*.

One "Honest Bob" used to use for demos at SOFA was a section of large round shafting, again it had a flat side and a curved side and he carved the stump to hold it either way.

What you don't want to do is to throw money away on a cast iron "Anvil Shaped Object" when you could buy a better chunk of steel cheaper at a scrap yard!

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P E, You have an opportunity to see some wonderful forged work by Samuel Yellin at the Redlands Cemetery. His Philadelphia shop did the big gates plus the smaller side gates. I saw them a few years ago and it looks like the large gates were slightly bent out of shape by someone running into them. A shame. In any event, go take a look and maybe take photos. You'll either be totally inspired or ha ha a little depressed.

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Frank,

Thanks for the tip. I drive by those gates fairly regularly and have noticed them but never stopped to take a look. It's possible someone drove into them (I don't recall hearing anything specific) but the cemetary did go through a period of getting vandalized with some frequency. It could have been a tree fell on them, though - a number of big trees have fallen on that street over the last 10 years or so.

I will definitely go check them out.

EDIT: fixed some typing mistakes. Whacked the tip of my left index finger twice in the last two days making bottlecap roses and it makes typing difficult. ;)

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How far are you from sacramento? There is a guy in Loomis that puts on classes in the fall. I live about 4 hours away and he is the closest teacher. Good guy and wonderful teacher. Google Mclellan blacksmithing, He has two more classes after this weekend, and then he is off and running doing shows and working. The classes are reasonable cost wise, and he makes room for newbs no matter where the rest of the class is. Lots of guys on this forum will network for you, I haven't actually set up a work place yet, have some projects to finish for the wife, but a guy in Oregon is looking for anvils for me. Good luck and stay safe.

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Sacramento is about 6-7 hours from me, otherwise I'd love to go to the classes. There's a place out in Yucca Valley that is giving a noob class this weekend (that I can't make) and another in early January I'm going to try and get to.

I'm kinda in the same boat - have a little bit of space set up to work in, some friends are keeping an eye out for anvils for me. Sooner or later, it will all get done. :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Another noob question, this one about this website: Is there a minimum number of posts or something you need to do before you are allowed to put up pictures or start a gallery? I want to post pics of the anvil I just got and the stand I made for it, but can't figure out how to get things started.

Thanks!
PE

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  • 2 weeks later...

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