Tong Offset fixture

[Spears]

The following pictures show a tong fixture which basically only puts in the offset and marks where the hole will be. It also enables a visual picture of what the final shape will be. This fixture bolts into my power hammer but could just as easily be set up for a treadle or sledge striker. Use of the fixture isn’t going to complete the tongs but rather take a good portion of the work out making it easier to make two pieces the same and visualize the final result. The Adobe files are of the dimensioned drawings showing a fixture for both 5/8” and 1/2” bar stock. The fractional sizes should make it easy for a welder to cut and fabricate should someone try this for themselves.

Two rods 1/2” diameter 21” long were bent up as identical halves. I visually held them over the blue print as a guide for bending. When the shape was close to what was needed, the offset was made. Shape and size was expected to change a little when the offset was hammered in. A good heat was taken generously wider than the 1” square pad in the middle and a flat die was hammered down until bottoming out on the surrounding spacer blocks.

A center punch dent in the middle pad leaves a nubbin standing up where the rivet hole is to be drilled. A small hammer was used to peen the small nubbin flat so center punching and drilling could be done right on rivet location. The square pad is merely a piece of stock half the thickness of the tong rods. The outer spacers are the full tong thickness.

I used a piece of 1/4” rod for the rivet and peened it down cold and it worked well. The alignment was nice and shouldn’t require any adjustment.

These tongs are not yet finished but the durability feels good for mild steel and the fixture worked well.

Spears.
.50TONG.pdf .625TONG.pdf

[CurlyGeorge]

Thanks for the post and pics, Spears. It really gives a good idea of how to make up a jig for the tongs. It looks like a pretty simple set up and even I can follow those instructions. Thanks, again. :)

[Ted T]

VERY Clever!!
Thank you! I plan on trying that!
I am a jig men at heart
The best to you!
Ted Throckmorton

[Steven Fabrizio]

I like!!! :D

[eric sprado]

Spears: Thanks for the post. I have never been a jig person and have lately REALLY wanted to figure out how to make jigs!! I need to make some for the drawer handles that I make for friends and craft fairs and other items that require repeated moves.. I guess I just need to jump in a do it. Wish I were near someone who could show me a few! Eric S.

[kevan]

This is such a cool posting, clever yet simple. I too, like Ted, am a jig man at heart. Thanks for this. I am going to use it!

[pkrankow]

I like the idea. I like that the simple jig can make left and right handed tongs.

Are you concerned that the sharpish edge of the square causes a stress concentration?

Phil

[doc]

Wonderfully simple tool. I would only suggest that you grind a point on a set screw and thread it in where your center punch mark is now, with the point protruding upward it would automatically make your center punch mark for drilling the rivet hole. This would eliminate a few steps you have mentioned.

Doc

[Guest jasonmichalski]

That looks way to simple. I'll have to give the jig a try.

[Spears]

Excellent point Doc,

A protrusion is more desirable than a dent. It was just easier for me to make a dent than tap a hole. That definitely would be worth taking the time if someone plans on building a lot of tongs this way. Thank you for mentioning that.


Excellent point Phil,

I left that corner rather sharp, just merely de-burred it. The thinnest area (even though a near sharp corner) is still ¼” thick. If the tong ended up un-flat or needing tweeked for alignment, I was hoping it would bend in those sharp corner areas instead of bowing over the rivet location.

Surrounding the rivet location should be kept as flat as possible riveted tightly together to make a more rigid pair of tongs.

In the case of this resulting in a fracture area of the tongs, just smooth out the corners of the middle pad with a die grinder or run a weld bead across those edges to make a ramp as opposed to a sharp drop-off.


Something else I didn’t try was to use a top plate over the fixture that is dished out in the rivet location maybe 1/8”. This makes the rivet area of the tongs thicker. In my case this may not be a better idea because I drill my rivet hole. If you drill the rivet hole through an area that is left thicker, you’re removing more material. So in the case of a dished-out top plate, are you really making a stronger tong? Perhaps there is a happy medium. I haven’t got that far yet.

Thanks for you input Phil, that is a real good point for anyone who undertakes building tongs this way. Spears.

[pkrankow]

I suspect that a full bead around the square, then grinding smooth will give very nice results. If you make a pin that goes in the center to mark the rivet hole you can move some metal so more is left when you drill. Since this gets hot, just a ground to shape grade 8 bolt tapped and threaded in would be as good as anything, they hold up fairly well to hot work if kept relatively cool as I have a punch made from one. No reason not to thru-drill it and have the bolt head on the underside just countersink to allow clearance.

Phil

[double_edge2]

Nice work, very universal shape of tong, I have some similar that are very easy to adapt to most jobs

[Frosty]

Nice jig, I love jigs when appropriate. I don't have any suggestions or criticisms but these things take a little thought and maybe a trial or two. Jigs can be a lot more complicated in use than in principle.

Have you given any thought to jigging for more conventional shaped tongs?

Good job, keep it up please.

Frosty the Lucky.

[Spears]

I really haven’t given any thoughts on making any more tongs than the few pair that I needed. Other than maybe giving some away at “iron in the hat” raffles, I may only build myself a couple more pair.

I happen to like tongs where when I hold the work piece firmly, the reins are 2-3” apart. This gives leverage for torsion on the work piece more than reins close together. It’s just what I prefer. Using this fixture allows me to make them that way.

I made two sets to hold 1/4” thick flat bar .5 – 1.25” wide, and a V-bit to hold various 1/2 - 5/8” round and square.

The fixture works beautifully even when the hole isn’t perfectly on center. The results are very good using mild steel. I chose to weld on the end forms. I wouldn’t call this process fast or slow, just simple and successful. I’m glad to see so many people in support of the simplicity. Thank you for all your comments. Spears.

[Spears]

Nice jig, I love jigs when appropriate. I don't have any suggestions or criticisms but these things take a little thought and maybe a trial or two. Jigs can be a lot more complicated in use than in principle. Have you given any thought to jigging for more conventional shaped tongs? Good job, keep it up please. Frosty the Lucky.

During these cold winter months I have actually thought about making another tong fixture. Frosty if you're out there please sketch or link me to some pictures of "more conventional shaped tongs" so I can try to tailor a fixture to those shapes. Thanks, Spears.

[pkrankow]

The only thing I see unconventional I see is that you do not forge the shape into the jaws and draw the reins thinner.

There are definitely other ways to make tongs.

Phil

[Blacksmith Johnny]

Thanks for sharing gonna make a couple for my shop.

[Roy Honcho Gregory]

Just a GREAT job. As a newbie, it maybe a good thing to do.
And as you talk about "Iron in the hat" I'm gonna do horse shoes hearts for now,,,LOL

Thanks for a great post

[Pault17]

I like the simplicity of the jaw design with the welded-on fixtures. rather vinking-ish style too. thanks for thinging in a different box for the rest of us