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I Forge Iron

Thinking about building a power hammer for me AG Mech. Project


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My hammer has a modified Tire hammer slide, in that I used the Clay Spencer plans as a guide for the new and improved slide. I used tube in a tube, 2" end cap welded on and plug welded on the ram bottom, and then filled in the hollow rom from there with 1/2" x 2" flat bar. Used two of the bars to come up and carry the rollers. Made a 70# ram.
I find that my hammer is at the sweet spot when I have a fingers clear space greater than the stock thickness. I have about 2" of adjustablility, and have forged 2" stock although slowly when in the previous 45# setup.
I like the tire clutch as I find it smoother and easier to feather than any other I have tried.

The only drawback to the Rusty style is they are long front to back. They are shorter however.

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Is it possible to build a miniature hammer? One of my mentors (I have access to his shop, lathe mill, drill press etc.) He was an excellent scrounger when he was younger, he has all kinds of pillow blocks, and bearing races by the tub full. I want to make one small first to get my dimensions and ideas down, I found a 2 1/8 pillow block that I want to use to make a mega-hammers toggle attatchment, and a fist full of 1/4 to 7/8 pillow blocks, I want to build something to do intricate work like leaves, and maybe a little power repousse

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I personally would suggest that a nice 25# Rusty is a small as I would bother with. The effort yields a usable hammer. And is easy to scrounge for. If I felt comfortable with my design/scrounge/welding etc I would go 50# min and 100# would not be out of the question.

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Does your grade matter to you? Think about showing your instructor one like CVMikeRay posted pics of vs a "rusty". I know which one I'd give higher marks for design and execution for!

You can deal with changing the height adjustability by making multiple sets of dies of different heights. With a good design for die mounting it would be about as easy as it is to change the height on a LG.

Small powerhammers: There was a fellow in SOFA who made small powerhammers that would fit in the hardy hole and use the anvil as their anvil---5# was one I remember. He demonstrated that they actually worked.

And then there was the one PTree had mounted on his hat where they forged a sewing pin with it...

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I wondered when someone would mention the worlds smallest working powerhammer. Yep, forged straight pins, using tweezers for tongs and a ciggerette lighter for forge:)
I am of medium height so it took someone as tall as Steve Parker to use the hammer:)
And it too is a rusty style.

Hayden, If you can get an ILL copy of "Pounding out the Profits" it has many many interesting designs for power hammers over the years. The "Powell" was a Rusty before anyone thought of a Rusty. 1870 patent date I think.

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I would like to weigh in on the side of the guided helve (Rusty).They can be built as heavy and robust as we choose. They can also be made adjustable (height) very easily. My second Rusty style is about 75# and has about 2 inches of adjustment that can be done in seconds. I have tried to post pictures but can't seem to make it work here or the gallery. If anyone is interested I can email photos.
Johnny

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

In regards to the small tire hammer in the link above by Fancis. I am in the planning and gathering stage of making something similar to that little tire hammer. From what i've gathered, the little tire on that hammer is one of those flat free partial foam wheel barrow tires without a mounting hub. Someone correct me if i'm wrong about that. So far my biggest concern is the lack of a mounting hub and thereby lack of mounted support. Im wandering rather or not it will stand up to the constant pounding of the hammer even after the toggle arms and ram are placed and counter balanced. This is what i have... a 16" lawn tracter trailer tire with 5/8" bore flanged bearings(if that is correct name. they are bearings with a lip on one end to stop them from sliding into the wheel bore) that simply slide over 5/8" stock. I purchased a couple heavy duty 5/8" bore sealed bearings to press into the center of the wheels bore for additional support. Im wanting to make the ram in the range of 25# or better but 25# is as low as i want to go. So lets hear it... Can this work? Should i buy some W-1 or other tool steel for shaft purposes or go with mild steel stock? Should i try to insert bigger bore bearings and go with larger round stock for a shaft? Should i abandon this wheel and go with a hub mounted wheel? Thanks in advance for any input.

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  • 2 months later...

I love my tire hammer :D I started out to make an air hammer but when I began to study the tire hammer; the ease and much lower cost, I quickly changed gears. To begin, I didn't have the air compressor requirement; 3-5 hp and at least a 60 gallon tank (Or so I was told)
I didn't have a plan and I'd never heard of Clay Spencer; I just saw one on another site. While on a vacation I happened to be able to visit the owner of that hammer and he was gracious enough to let me take lots of pictures and take lots of measurements and in the end, I used few of those dimension as I had to adapt the design to fit the materials I had already collected; primarily scrap although I had access to a CNC shape cutter and was able to generate some particular "scrap".... :ph34r:
I've never used an air hammer but the features that are capable, such as clamping and single blows are impressive for sure. However, a tire hammer with a properly set up braking mechanism can do single blows. Another factor is the noise you have with air that you don't have with mechanical. I have considered installing an indicator light on mine to remind me to turn it off when I'm not using it because the only non-hammering noise it makes is the whisper of the electric motor the clutch hub is mounted on ;)
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Hello! I live in Russia. Detailed photos and drawings didn't remain with you on this hammer?
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