Hayden H Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 As the title above says, I'm thinking about making a power hammer, for my AG Mech welding class. I don't really know anything about bulding one, but its what I want to do. I really don't know all the technical stuff about it, but would an air hammer be better over a mechanical one? Or vice versa? Whos got good plans to gather info from? It cannot be built off of purchased plans, but the designs can be based off of designs I'll probably have to make CAD diagram of it for my teacher.. Which would be easier to build, helve, mechanical, or air? I'd like to make an air hammer, to use in the shop, but what kind of pressure would I need? What kind of base, and area would I need? I have alot of questions, but I have until December 1st to have it in final stages of building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayden H Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 I'm thinking an entire air-powered blacksmith setup compressoer, air hammer, blower setup to a turbine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Tire Hammer! Tire Hammer! Tire Hammer! Tire Hammer! Tire Hammer! Tire Hammer! Tire Hammer! For that class I would think a Tire Hammer! would be almost perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swink Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 you can turn out alot of work on a tire hammer. they make good hammers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I'm inclined to agree with Tom and Swink on this. I've built 5 air hammers in the over the last 10 yrs and if I were just starting out I'd keep it simple and cheap........Judging from your profile you'll probly build more than one in your time so begin at the lower end of the learning curve......Have fun! note; If you can afford a digital level get one, dialing in the parallels and perpendiculars to within .1 of 1 degree is huge.... ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Now can you talk them into letting you do *two* of them? Very handy to have two, or even one to sell or trade... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unforgivun Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Could setup 2 frames side by side with one larger motor. Instead of the motor itself being moved when you step on the treadle, you'd engage a tension pulley on each end attached to the normal drive pulley. would mean 2 belts and linkage between the 2 etc. Basically the hammers would be built in the same fashion but you could have 1 motor (power source) driving both units. The drive drum itself would have a pulley attached to it that when engaged put tension on the belt and against the tire, otherwise it would just freespin. Granted, this is only helpful if the cost of a 2nd motor is your main issue :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I'd throw in my vote for a guided helve with a tire clutch, but that may be because that was the route I went. It's an Appalachian Rusty-style hammer. They can be scaled from 15 pounds up to 100 fairly easily. The design is very simple and very effective. And it can be built from scrap without a lot of material expense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayden H Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 I'm thinking about maybe a mechanical hammer for aesthetics, due to its going to an AG Mech show in San Antonio, if I build it, air hammers from what I understand can be tempermental Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Is it going to be at the San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo? I'd love to come see this thing when you get it built! It's hard to beat the guided helve hammer as a balance between simplicity and functionality, in my opinion. Check this out: http://www.appaltree.net/rusty/index.htm I need to shoot an updated video with mine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Tire hammer is more impressive to a teacher than a rusty. Rusty looks more like a hillbilly rig---I took the SOFA workshop where we built a rusty and have seen the Clay Spencer tire hammer in operation si I can compare from knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayden H Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 It all depends if I can get the money out of savings to buy the steel, or get the money loaned from family Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I would offer that if I had to choose between a guided helve and the tire hammer, As I did, I would say YES. I built a Rusty style first then modified to have the compact spare drive, and a somewhat modified slide per the tire hammer. Mine is now at 70#, and in the opinion of the Southern Indiana Meteor mashers, our local group my hammer is more smooth and controllable than any of the various Little Giants they have. Thomas P has seen mine, pre last mod. Mine is well guarded and was frankly a lash up afair. I made mental drawings and that was it. If you are a good farm boy scrounger the guided helve can be built on the cheap. I re-purposed hydraulic cylinder pivots for several of the pivots, used a mini vcan rear axle hub assy and tire. My first rendition in 2002 was running for under $50 cash. In the most recent and best design sofar I have a 70# hammer, about 700# of anvil and sitting on a concrete foundation and am at about $200, including a 5Hp electric NOS motor. And for your class the drawings and design will be original enough to qualify. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Ptree - Could you put up pics of your latest version over here as well? Or if you already have, could you direct me to the thread with 'em? Your advice was quite helpful in building mine. Thomas - I've seen darn few homebrewed hammers that didn't look "hillbilly-ish" in some way. Conversely, some of the Rustys I've seen pictured have been built very neatly and even sport paint. I freely admit that mine (I call her "Gunnhilda", "Battle-maiden") looks a mite rough, but she hits hard. And has good control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 I have to recover the the photos from a crashed hard drive, soon I hope. If not recoverable, I will make new maybe this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 look at these: While there, you can look over the gallery and find some more detail photos. http://www.farwestforge.com/Forum/bsgview.php?photo=3762&cat=&by=Jeff%20Reinhardt http://www.farwestforge.com/Forum/bsgview.php?photo=3763&cat=&by=Jeff%20Reinhardt http://www.farwestforge.com/Forum/bsgview.php?photo=3764&cat=&by=Jeff%20Reinhardt http://www.farwestforge.com/Forum/bsgview.php?photo=3765&cat=&by=Jeff%20Reinhardt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 I love my tire hammer I started out to make an air hammer but when I began to study the tire hammer; the ease and much lower cost, I quickly changed gears. To begin, I didn't have the air compressor requirement; 3-5 hp and at least a 60 gallon tank (Or so I was told) I didn't have a plan and I'd never heard of Clay Spencer; I just saw one on another site. While on a vacation I happened to be able to visit the owner of that hammer and he was gracious enough to let me take lots of pictures and take lots of measurements and in the end, I used few of those dimension as I had to adapt the design to fit the materials I had already collected; primarily scrap although I had access to a CNC shape cutter and was able to generate some particular "scrap".... I've never used an air hammer but the features that are capable, such as clamping and single blows are impressive for sure. However, a tire hammer with a properly set up braking mechanism can do single blows. Another factor is the noise you have with air that you don't have with mechanical. I have considered installing an indicator light on mine to remind me to turn it off when I'm not using it because the only non-hammering noise it makes is the whisper of the electric motor the clutch hub is mounted on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Hayden , I agree with the Tire hammer fans. As far as cost, material availability and reliability of the product goes, The tire hammers are hands down the best way to go. If you decide to go this way, you will not be disapointed. I was in on the Maine tire hammer build in May of this year, we built 12 hammers in 4 days and had a great time doing it. Derek Glazer at the New England School of Metalwork orchestrated the build and Clay was the supervisor and QC foreman. The cost excluding your hotel and chow ran about USD $1850.00 . I did mount my own hammer on a piece of steel plate over a stall mat and that will add to your cost if you go that route. I use the hammer a lot in the shop and I make my own tooling based on the AFC web site PDF "Tire hammer Tooling". So far it has performed as advertised and it really puts out. It enables you to do normal tasking very quickly and you can move up in stock dimension without killing yourself. As Dodge said, its quiet when not pounding on iron and you dont need a compressor or 3 Ph power. Good luck. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Big number builds done on a short schedule are often *much* more expensive than doing one over a period of time---you have to buy a lot of identical stuff you can scrounge 1 of on your own and you make design changes based on what you can get cheap or free when you are doing just 1 for yourself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Instead of looking for money, start looking in the phone book for manufacturers, suspension, and fabrication shops. Try to get "drops" which are metal ends that are too small for the job they are doing, and can be had for scrap rate or less (and as a student they may have sympathy for your plight) Be honest about the use, and who you are. Bring simple gifts: a box of donuts, case of pop, blacksmith stuff you may have made... Best of luck. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 I built my original hammer in 2002 for about $43 including the concrete foundation, but I scrounged like a madman for a year. AND I had the most excellent scrounging store of all time, the factory I worked in. I would guess that a fair scrounger, who does the welding himself could fab up a usable hammer like mine for under $200. Mine, with the later new motor, and so forth, is now at about $200. For a extremely controllable 70# hammer, able to hit soft, hit a single blow, and to really move metal when you want, this is a good choice. So is the tire hammer. Both use the same spare tire clutch. My hammer, built with the current slides can be built with a drill press, saw and welder. The Dupont linkage system on the tire hammer is a much more machining intensive design, and places the highly stressed high speed moving parts at face level and close. The guided ram spring hammer like mine is extremely easy to guard. I have broken several springs in the experimental stages, and NEVER, EVER had and parts do anything but rattle inside the guard, and drop harmlessly out the bottom of the guard. ANY home built hammer needs proper guarding. The Duponts need it, and so does the Rusty type. Last, any power hammer is better than no power hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajajoaquin Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Ptree, do you have any pics of your hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 In the Gallery on www.farwestforge.com under Jeff Reinhardt you can find many.. See above for some links as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Get the Clay Spencer Tire Hammer plans. If you contact the AFC http://www.alaforge.org they can point you to folks who supply most of the mechanical parts needed for the tire hammer. Saw a nice one this weekend at the AFC meeting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Thanks, Ptree. I'd be curious to know what the difference in height adjustability is between the Clay Spencer-style tire hammer and the Rusty-style guided helve. I know with Gunnhilda I can get a pretty good range, allowing for working wide material and using tooling. Anyone know? I am a fan of the tire clutch. Certainly not disparaging the tire hammer design, but I have my reasons for going with the guided helve design, and I think they're good reasons. A good-sized self-contained or utility hammer would be great, of course. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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