Steve Loscheider Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 I'm wondering what the right/wrong ways are for lifting & moving a 25lb Little Giant. I've got a light duty 4x8 trailer (rated for 900 to 1000 lbs) to haul it with and a nephew with a small truck mounted crane (he routinely lifts barrels of oil with it and says 800 lbs would be no problem). I plan to remove the shaft. Can the frame be lifted with just a strap or chain through the top of the C or does the bottom need to be supported as well? I figured we could lift it with the crane, roll the trailer under it and then lay it down on top of a couple old tires for cushioning on the trailer. There is no motor on the hammer right now. Thank you all for any advice and tips you've got :) Quote
peacock Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 That hammer is about 900#. With the shaft removed your plan sould work fine. I lift from the throat (top of the c) all the time. Mark the top caps before you remove them so you can put them back where they came from. Welcome aboard, will look forward to more post. If you need help there's about 1000 years experience on this site, all glad to help. Quote
eric sprado Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 No need to remove the shaft. Lifting by C frame is great.I WOULD put down a pallet first. Then the tires. The pallet lets you get under it when it comes time to unload... Quote
781 Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 I agree it is not necessary to remove the shaft clutch flywheel unless you are trying to get rid of weight so you can lift it. I always pick the hammer with a strap under the C of the frame and lay the hammer on a tire rounted on a rim. Once watched a frend put a 25 in the back of a van. rolled the hammer on pipe up to the back doors, layed the hammer down and put a pipe in the bottom of the hollow frame under the bottom die and 3 guys picked up the pipe and slid in the hammer until the doors would close. No power tool were used. Be very careful if trying to roll with pipe as the hammer is very top heavy with a small base. Quote
Thomas Dean Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Granted, you need not remove the top assembly to lift the hammer. BUT, I would simply for the reason of having a crane that can lift 800#s. As Peacock mentioned, the hammer weighs 900#. Better spend the little time removing the extra weight than having to take someone to the ER for medical attention, not to mention the possible damage to the hammer if something breaks. You can have the top assembly off in about 15 mins., surely you can afford that little of time. Good luck and BE CAREFUL. BTW, we really like pictures! And welcome to IFI. Quote
ThomasPowers Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Well you asked for the best way so "Call a rigger and start shoveling cash!" I've never moved one "the best way" myself till my 1500 mile move where I had to have my shop moved without me being there. (And the truck fell through the first time and all my stuff spent 2 weeks on pallets being rained on---ARGH) Pep moved a 50# LG as I recall with a simple cherry picker with a bracket fabbed to fit in the top of the C and an air powered lift system. Impressive in it's ease and simplicity! Quote
macbruce Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 I don't like laying em' down, if you have good chain w/ binders,or 2"wide ratchet straps AND good hard points at each corner, I say leave it up. arrange the chain, straps to pass through the throat (just below the dies) and to each corner. If you think you got more tie down chains than needed, think again, It's far better to use more than you think you need, especially if they're just cluttering up the back of the truck. Careful you don't tweak the trailer though. I wouldn't take it apart. Test the lift by picking the hammer up say 2" off the ground, if you can't, the truck is tipping.......forget that. If you can lift 2" get on the hammer and bounce, If that rocks the hammer/truck........forget that, If it's stable you're probly good to go. The biggest hammer I've moved to date was a Beaudry #8, 200lb, upright. Big hammers are never laid flat, why do that with the smaller? Unless you have to. That' my 2 cents worth.............mb Quote
doc Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 I have called a tow company with a wrecker (not a roll off) and had the lift it for me. cheaper than a rigger if you don't have the equipment to do the lifting. Quote
HWHII Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Well you asked for the best way so "Call a rigger and start shoveling cash!" I've never moved one "the best way" myself till my 1500 mile move where I had to have my shop moved without me being there. (And the truck fell through the first time and all my stuff spent 2 weeks on pallets being rained on---ARGH) Pep moved a 50# LG as I recall with a simple cherry picker with a bracket fabbed to fit in the top of the C and an air powered lift system. Impressive in it's ease and simplicity! Pep is not your average human being though. :huh: Quote
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 (rated for 900 to 1000 lbs) Interesting, Why won't it carry less than 900 pounds? Seems like the rating would be 0 - 1000 pounds!:blink: Quote
firefarm39 Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 :D Grant, you do have a way of keeping us honest in our usage of the language!! ;) Quote
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Well, then my job here is done.:lol: Quote
fciron Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 why use the light duty trailer? It would seem safer in the back of the truck. I moved my 25 in the back of my little nissan pick up and the hammer and the truck were both fine. Quote
ThomasPowers Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Well Pep had just broken his hand and was trying to get a system figured out to continue as the demonstrator for our conference! He did an amazing pattern welding/mosaic damascus demo for us with "One hand tied behind his back!" Had surgery on it the day after the conference ended. No he's not average and I sure as HECK never want to make him angry---just in case he starts to puff up and turn green and starts talking about smashing... Quote
peacock Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 I agree with fciron. I haul my 25# in my Colorado all the time. I have a 2 1/2'x4'x5/8" plate on the bottom of the hammer. Gives a bigger foot print, rides good standing up. Quote
sloscheider Posted January 11, 2011 Posted January 11, 2011 I used the FaceBook sign in method for the first time last night and accidentally created a new account Thanks for all the input everyone! No need to remove the shaft. Lifting by C frame is great.I WOULD put down a pallet first. Then the tires. The pallet lets you get under it when it comes time to unload... I was concerned that the strap would exert too much sideways force on the shaft when we laid the hammer down. Well you asked for the best way so "Call a rigger and start shoveling cash!" I've never moved one "the best way" myself till my 1500 mile move where I had to have my shop moved without me being there. (And the truck fell through the first time and all my stuff spent 2 weeks on pallets being rained on---ARGH) Pep moved a 50# LG as I recall with a simple cherry picker with a bracket fabbed to fit in the top of the C and an air powered lift system. Impressive in it's ease and simplicity! I wish I had that kind of cash to shovel I don't like laying em' down, if you have good chain w/ binders,or 2"wide ratchet straps AND good hard points at each corner, I say leave it up. arrange the chain, straps to pass through the throat (just below the dies) and to each corner. If you think you got more tie down chains than needed, think again, It's far better to use more than you think you need, especially if they're just cluttering up the back of the truck. Careful you don't tweak the trailer though. I wouldn't take it apart. Test the lift by picking the hammer up say 2" off the ground, if you can't, the truck is tipping.......forget that. If you can lift 2" get on the hammer and bounce, If that rocks the hammer/truck........forget that, If it's stable you're probly good to go. The biggest hammer I've moved to date was a Beaudry #8, 200lb, upright. Big hammers are never laid flat, why do that with the smaller? Unless you have to. That' my 2 cents worth.............mb I agree but my trailer is a kit type that has a fair bit of flex to it. Interesting, Why won't it carry less than 900 pounds? Seems like the rating would be 0 - 1000 pounds! good point! why use the light duty trailer? It would seem safer in the back of the truck. I moved my 25 in the back of my little nissan pick up and the hammer and the truck were both fine. I no longer have a truck - I'll be pulling the trailer with my Ford Explorer - I suspect that if I had a fork lift at my disposal I could slide it into the back of the Explorer but the trailer will be easier. Quote
fciron Posted January 11, 2011 Posted January 11, 2011 ah, I was confused by the mention of a small truck mounted crane. I've moved several 25s by leaning them over into the back of the truck and then jacking the bottom up until they could be slid in horizontally. reverse the process to unload. Use lots of blocking as a safety measure in case the jack slips. Quote
Stash Posted January 11, 2011 Posted January 11, 2011 I have one of those light duty Home Despot trailers that a friend gave me(Note the word 'gave'-- I probably wouldn't have paid good money for that junk.) Welded some more steel on it in some critical spots, still not real confident in it. It's GVW is 2k, I loaded a 850# machine on it, and drove 15 hiway miles with my cheeks clenched tight. Never again- I'll use that one for light hauling only, use my 5ton for heavy stuff and be safe and confident I'll make it home. Don't take chances with a light trailer- things can go very bad very quick. Steve Quote
nuge Posted January 11, 2011 Posted January 11, 2011 We've lifted plenty of stuff on and off trailers with three 20' lodgepole pine sections, a chain hoist and some slings. From there its pipe rollers, pry bars and maybe some bottle jacks. Straight outta Lo Cash. Not recommending it, of course. Quote
Tommy Traylor Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 I agree with hauling it upright and securing the top of it to the 4 corners of the trailer. Also, invest in 4 more straps and tie the base to the same 4 corners. I have had the base walk while the top was held in place. Arrived much like the leaning tower of Pisa. Quote
Don Hanson Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 I have walked them across a shop by myself using a bar in the hole in the sow block (new style). Have use a good size hand truck(dolly)to move em around. Have laid them on their side on to a low trailer and used a come-a-long to winch em up. Best way though was to get a friend with a fork lift, way better for 100 ponders :) Quote
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