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I Forge Iron

sloscheider

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Everything posted by sloscheider

  1. I removed the hammer head assembly and shaft then laid the frame down on my trailer. The ride home was uneventful. The front bearing is broken so I expect I'll be learning how to pour babbit all the other bearing surfaces were healthy but by the look of the bad one the shaft was out of alignment causing uneven wear.
  2. Nathan Robertson makes some beautiful hammers - I think his number is (see below) - he's a member of Northern MN Metalsmiths and you can buy his hammers at their spring conference near Itasca State Park in Minnesota. He makes at least 2 different sizes in straight, cross and diagonal (both directions) - they're a work of art in and of themselves I've got two of them - not too expensive but not exactly cheap either - worth every penny imho. As mentioned below - Here's a link to Old World Anvils where they've got a page devoted to Nathan's hammers http://www.oldworldanvils.com/hammers/index.html
  3. I used the FaceBook sign in method for the first time last night and accidentally created a new account Thanks for all the input everyone! I was concerned that the strap would exert too much sideways force on the shaft when we laid the hammer down. I wish I had that kind of cash to shovel I agree but my trailer is a kit type that has a fair bit of flex to it. good point! I no longer have a truck - I'll be pulling the trailer with my Ford Explorer - I suspect that if I had a fork lift at my disposal I could slide it into the back of the Explorer but the trailer will be easier.
  4. And don't mess with it too much - don't take a grinder to it or anything crazy like that.... leave it alone and post some photos, perhaps tell us what your plans are. You want to do some smithing yourself or just looking for a value and plan to sell it? Post measurements as well - length, height, width, dimensions of the rectangular surface, etc...
  5. I always figured the lever type forges were made for folks who were used to bellows and didn't like the idea of a hand crank - they are somewhat rare so I wouldn't be too quick to sell it even after you move on to another forge. I've got a "railroad" type of lever forge - a rectangular shaped pan about 2' x 3' that I got more for fun than practical use. I like the curves in the wheel and simply the way it works. It looks like you've got yourself a nice piece of machinery :)
  6. A brand new 30,000 btu "garage heater" will set you back about $150 from a Menards, Home Depot or many hardware stores. They are odorless and over 99% efficient - no vent required and most garages / shops are leaky enough to supply fresh air. Absolutely have a CO detector even just for your forge work - get the kind with a digital display that shows peak levels even if the aren't enough to sound an immediate alarm. In most states they are even acceptable for use inside your home. The one I bought came with both LP and Natural gas connections so it would work with whatever you have available.
  7. Check out this book: A Blacksmithing Primer as a handy and well written book if you like books. I prefer coal for fuel - again, knowing where you are someone can tell you where to get some from a club or vendor. When you say you have all the tools you need - what do you have? You may have things you should set aside until later so you can keep things simple for now. You really don't need much... Look in the yellow pages for your local farrier and give him or her a call. They might know of some other blacksmiths in the area.
  8. Ya, it may not work as well as more elaborate schemes but like the bolt in the pritchel hole you can just take a length, perhaps 10 inches, of 3/8 rod and bend it into a U shape and place it so one end is in the pritchel hole and the other hanging over the edge of the anvil - it'll take a big bite out of the ring and it's simple.
  9. You didn't do too bad the first time I tried to build a fire I never got the coal to light I couldn't tell what kind of a blower you have - I find that when I'm starting a fire I vary the air flow depending on what's happening with the fire. I've heard that in the old days an apprentice would spend weeks or months just working the fire before they ever got to pound metal. The first coal I got wasn't ever sticky but I got the next batch from a local club and it was the sticky variety - they both worked equally well, it just took some getting used to...
  10. EXACTLY!!!!! Put that thing away - it's got good edges and looks like a Mousehole. Take very good care of that baby! Here's a link to a site that will help you identify the anvil: The Celtic Knot - Identifying Anvils and one of the things they note: This is like the Antique Road Show :D
  11. I would say it depends on your personality - it's a fair price for a Whisper Moma. Do you just want to get to the task of smithing or do you enjoy the process of making the tools you need to do the job? If you just want to get to it then buy the forge and start hammering otherwise do your research and take the time to build your own and then start hamming
  12. I think it's a good value - not too expensive but not really a bargain either. I agree with BigFootNampa, the edges are fine - the heat from welding up the edges could ruin the hardness of the face - imho, leave it alone. This should be in it's own thread - please don't hijack another thread.
  13. Are you certain you have 3 phase power?
  14. Go get it - if nothing else it'll fetch you a nice profit if/when you sell it in a few years - the writing on the side is remarkably legible!
  15. EXACTLY!!! Put a classified ad in a few papers, go to car swap meets (talk to anyone who is selling tools to find out if they have any anvils, leg vices or forges - many have them but don't bother to bring them with), hit the antique shops (not the pretty ones, the ones that look more like farm junk collections). 130 lb Vulcan - $60 132 lb HB & 3 leg vices - $150 ~330 lb HB - $600 None of these are in "new" condition but are in overall very good shape. Also get a leg vice if you find one. imho.....
  16. Where have you looked so far and what have you found and for how much? Is it fair to say that $350 is your ballpark budget?
  17. Very nice wide mouth. I have the single burner Tabasco and run it at about 3 psi for normal forging and around 10 for welding
  18. You may already know this but if the bulbs are still intact BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THEM - they are high pressure bulbs (I believe it's filled with Xenon) and the glass is optically pure so it won't show up on an x-ray meaning they'll have to find the glass by you telling them where it hurts.... I was next to a lamp house when the bulb exploded upon startup - this was a 5,000 watt bulb and sounded like a shotgun! It completely shattered the large mirror behind it. When we changed the bulbs we wore a full face shield and a chest protector.
  19. I have a Tabasco from Chile Forge that is wonderfully portable and typically runs at around 3 - 4 psi (higher for welding heat). Overall I've been happy with it.
  20. he may get that price from a collector depending on condition and brand / rarity - ebay would be his best route if that's his goal. As noted above, selling it to a smith for regular use will likely get at most $2 per lb.
  21. Perhaps you;ve said it in another post but what will you be doing in this new forge? Depending on what you're doing you may really like a nice wide side opening forge - if you're only doing blades or other long straight things then and end opening forge is great. If you're used to working with coal you've had the luxury of being able to put nearly any shape object into the file at any point you like but with a gas forge you may not be able to fit the middle part in there once you've bent it. I would suggest you determine your intended use of the forge - then you;ll know which style to purchase regardless of brand.
  22. Keep in mind this thread is nearly a year old - as he said, it's been working for nearly a year
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