connor bachmann Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Hey guys, I'm fed up with my rebar and mild steel nail headers. I'm wondering if it's possible to make a nail header from a railroad spike. possibly from an old file? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 yes, and yes, and a leaf spring, and a coil spring, and a large bolt (grade 5 and 8 are hardenable alloys) I used a large grade 8 bolt. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyfelwr Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 I just made one this morning out of a unidentified peice of railroad hardware. But it felt just like the railroad spikes I have worked, same hardness I think. Although I have only made one nail it seems to work fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connor bachmann Posted November 22, 2010 Author Share Posted November 22, 2010 Thank you, I'll try the railroad spike, and file. I don't have any springs ATM, I'm too lazy to get some now ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Connor, I did a search of the forum and didn't get a hit. But it seems as though someone in the last year or so posted some pics of a nail header that they made from a RR Spike. I'm pretty sure that it was on IFI. Anyway, you can make a header from the head end of the spike. Bend it 90 degrees to the spike and heat and punch it. Hope this helps. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swamptroll Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 old lawnmower blade welded on to of a piece of mild steel works well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 A spike might not be too far off from the A-36 you have not liked. I use coil spring to make my headers---less work than a leaf spring, good steel, easily heat treated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Just a word to the wise, passing on something that I learned only very recently: some Grade 8 bolts are cadmium plated. Cadmium isn't very good for you. Just something to keep in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Just a word to the wise, passing on something that I learned only very recently: some Grade 8 bolts are cadmium plated. Cadmium isn't very good for you. Just something to keep in mind. I am fairly sure that the bolts I used were mechanically plated with zinc. Mechanical plating can be any color under the sun. Both cadmium and zinc can be removed in an overnight vinegar bath, or in a few minutes with muriatic acid bath. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 I am fairly sure that the bolts I used were mechanically plated with zinc. Mechanical plating can be any color under the sun. Both cadmium and zinc can be removed in an overnight vinegar bath, or in a few minutes with muriatic acid bath. Phil Understood. Just wanted to mention it for those who might not know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 I have made several out of RR spikes. They seem to work well and I have used them quite a bit. Here's a link to a gallery pic of one.RR spike header Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 How many hundreds of nails have you run through it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 instead of a spike I used one of the bolts you find along the tracks I cut the dome of the head off and welded a handle on and drilled the hole then then drifted from the bottom and filed a radius on the mouth so the nail will release...works good for me also I cut a section of leaf spring then filed a notch about 3/8 wide in the center with the cutting edge about 1/16 below the surface so it will not cut all the the way through so as not to cut your hammer face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 How many hundreds of nails have you run through it? More like 150 to 200 Thomas. I have several different ones but this is a favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connor bachmann Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Actually, I think I'll stick to a file and a piece of coil spring that I just got. I'll post a video later. Thank you everyone for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 If y'all can afford it, you might try some steels that hold up well to hot work: S1; S7; H13; H21. http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I am fairly sure that the bolts I used were mechanically plated with zinc. Mechanical plating can be any color under the sun. Both cadmium and zinc can be removed in an overnight vinegar bath, or in a few minutes with muriatic acid bath. Phil Alot of structural bolts used for steel erection are Grade 8 and come unplated. You can get them plain but most come with a black dip coating. It burns right of in the forge just keep your head out of the plume. You usually have to go to a bolt supply house to get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Alot of structural bolts used for steel erection are Grade 8 and come unplated. You can get them plain but most come with a black dip coating. It burns right of in the forge just keep your head out of the plume. You usually have to go to a bolt supply house to get them. Helpful to know. Thanks. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason @ MacTalis Ironworks Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 My nail header is made from a random leaf-spring hunk cut to a paddle shape, and domed with a big ball bearing in a swage. No hardening, just normalize it. Has prolly had about 5000 nails or so made with it with no sign of deformation at all as of yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 instead of a spike I used one of the bolts you find along the tracks I cut the dome of the head off and welded a handle on and drilled the hole then then drifted from the bottom and filed a radius on the mouth so the nail will release...works good for me also I cut a section of leaf spring then filed a notch about 3/8 wide in the center with the cutting edge about 1/16 below the surface so it will not cut all the the way through so as not to cut your hammer face. I just recently walked a length of track around my home and picked up a few RR bolts. I was wandering if anyone knew what the markings on the bolt head ment. Im pretty sure it was LB 01. Are the bolts made of the same steel as the spikes? which is to say, is it a guessing game? i was thinking of trying to make a blade with one. As i am new to smithing and i'm only practicing right now for the most part, it doesnt have to be the best quality steel but do yall think they are at least low carbon steel? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Don't know what it is but I make lots of neat things from those bolts. Last week Flattened the top of one a bit and chiseled in the lines for a leaf relief. Get leaf hot and hammer it on to form. No heat treating of any kind. Cut off the stem to about four inches. Just had to dress the wide part under the bolt head a little bit and it drops right in to my 1" hardy hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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