ofafeather Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Hi, All. Anyone know of any videos on-line showing how to use the Hot Cut Hardy to get that nice clean dimple on the end of a cut rod? Is it hard to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Nice clean dimple? I'm not clear on what you're asking. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Hi, All. Anyone know of any videos on-line showing how to use the Hot Cut Hardy to get that nice clean dimple on the end of a cut rod? Is it hard to do? Rotate the bar/rod after each blow, getting deeper as you form a groove around the periphery, then break off the last bit, that will give what you describe on a round or square bar If you angle the workpiece, you can also control the angle produced on the bar end, from square to the angle of the hardie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Thompson Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 For hot cutting, you need a much more acute angled edge or you will deform the bar while trying to force a cold hardy through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ofafeather Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 Nice clean dimple? I'm not clear on what you're asking.Frosty the Lucky. Hi, Frosty. As Brian shows in this post Rotate the bar/rod after each blow, getting deeper as you form a groove around the periphery, then break off the last bit, that will give what you describe on a round or square barIf you angle the workpiece, you can also control the angle produced on the bar end, from square to the angle of the hardie. John, Thanks. I think that's what I'm looking for For hot cutting, you need a much more acute angled edge or you will deform the bar while trying to force a cold hardy through. Sam, I think I'm following you. If the cutting tool has to steep an edge, as with a cold cut, the bar will deform. Would you ever use that type of cutting to form almost an upset at the end as you're cutting? I realize though that cutting hot metal with a "cold" tool could mess with the temper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ofafeather Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 Nice clean dimple? I'm not clear on what you're asking. Frosty the Lucky. Guess "dimple" really wasn't the right word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecelticforge Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 What is the word for an inverted dimple....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David E. Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 What is the word for an inverted dimple....? A Hole :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge9001 Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 no a hole is another word for a dimple. an inverted dimple would be a nipple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 An inverted dimple is a pooch. Francis Whitaker's "straight side hardie" had a vertical straight side and the other side was beveled at the cutting edge, about 25º. An apprentice will learn to take the hammer haft out to the side parallel to the blade length when giving the final shearing blow(s). The reason is to prevent cutting the wooden haft on the hardie near the hammer head which happens if you're working behind the hardie width. Many smiths, some experienced, have numerous cut marks just under the hammer head. Are you guilty? http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_edge2 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 i know what you mean...excuse the scale, as John B said , by rotating as you strike.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ofafeather Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 i know what you mean...excuse the scale, as John B said , by rotating as you strike.. That's it. Not good at it yet. Can't keep the grooves lined up all the way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 A curved face can help as you can angle the piece so it's still engaged on the hardy in the previous cut but the new section is on the cutting edge to be struck---like walking a curved hot cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ofafeather Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 A curved face can help as you can angle the piece so it's still engaged on the hardy in the previous cut but the new section is on the cutting edge to be struck---like walking a curved hot cut. Thanks. I have one of Grant's OC hot cuts. It is curved but I've only recently tried to do it this way and think I just need more practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 That's it. Not good at it yet. Can't keep the grooves lined up all the way around. You have to hold it at 90 degrees to the hardie's cutting edge, tap it lightly when starting and roll it slightly, tap again whils still located in previously formed groove, roll slightly and repeat until you reach the starting cut which should meet, keep the metal hot. It is quicker to do than write it up, or read it when you are practiced at it, Once you have the groove established, continue in the same way but with stronger blows,> Don't go all the way through, or you will damage your hammer and or hardie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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