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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by edge9001

  1. I got it! I got anvil and stump still mounted, and it rings like a champ. I offered $200, he countered with $300 and we settled on $250.
  2. I just emailed an offer of $200. I don't I will get it for that, but it will be a good start for negotiations. Unfortunately I don't have much room to negotiate.
  3. I have been on craigslist lately, one wonderful gentleman has made me aware he is willing to sell this anvil and told me to make an offer. can anyone tell me the make of the one, and is $200 a fair offer.
  4. stuarthesmith, I would do this. but then again I don't care if my neighbors are happy or not. they don't have anyway to control what I do or when I do it. they have called the cops many times when I am out shooting, and the cops always come by ask how i'm doing and see which guns I have out this time...but they never tell me to stop shooting. so if guns are not tool loud and obnoxious then my forge cant be any worse.
  5. I found a great supply of free osage orange stakes, the kind used to hold up construction silt fencing. I have a dozen 3x4 stakes 4 ft long. that's a lot of tool and knife handles. I've already replaced the cracked oak handle on my first tomahawk. It is a nice orange color coated with linseed oil.
  6. the .410 is not a guage, it is a caliber, same a .45 caliber pistol. thanks for the ideas and info, when i get a chance to try it again i will let you guys know how it goes...
  7. ok, so first attempt, i got lazy and used my welder. i took an old tool and reworked it to make a set of handles. and arc welded it onto a large square set of blanks. then i took a piece of 3/8 round stoke and with a combination of my grinder and the ol hand hammer i made a small positive ball with sprue, quenched it it harden it as much as possible. next I heated the mold blank to red hot and hammered both halves around the ball and sprue. I call this my first attempt, because the handles sucked, the ball and sprue sucked and the mold section leaked, i made a great flat plate of lead with a ball and sprue molded into it...in otherwords, this is going to the scrap pile for now and I will start over. this time i think i need to source a few actual ball bearings, and i can always drill the prue
  8. i want to make the mold for buckshot for 12ga reloading in the woods. i understand there are easier ways to do it but this is the method of shot production i want to try. thanks i'll let you guys know how its turns out. unless its a total flop...lol
  9. is is a plated coating of some sort, i was hoping someone with more experience than i would know what it might be. it is a goldish yellow coating(it almost looks like brass), i will try to get a picture tomarrow. as for the scratch and sniff chemist...i never said it, but I did avoid the fumes. I may not know what the coating is, but that never meant i was breathing it. i burnt it off is an open area
  10. Ok guys, I saw a hand forged 38 cal round ball bullet mold on the net.. I am curious what you guys think, would this be difficult to make. I intend to go out in a few days and try it out. my thoughts are start with making the handles and leaving the jaws extra thick. and then heat the jaws and form them together around either a ball bearing or forging ball on the end of a thin rod for a positive mold. Off site link removed. We get no return from the buyer or the seller for linking to their material
  11. I bought some copper flat bar from the local scrap yard, it looks like it might be a electrical bus bar of some kind. I intend this copper, as thick as it is, to be used for knife fittings. however it has a yellowish coating(or more accuratley a plating) on it. this coating burns off easily as i anneal it so as to make cutting and shaping easier. anyone have a clue as to what this yellow coating is.
  12. I've used your etching method with wonderful results. I made my rig from an unused motorcycle trickle charger, and I used fingernail polish as a resist. just paint it on, scratch off the pattern and the rest is the same. I have not settled on my mark as of yet, but I have a few knives that are in need of one. keep us posted, so far good work, can;t wait to see more.
  13. I can see your point, but IF your intent is to buy this and then get a better one later, skip a step and start with the better one. even these disk and belt machines have thier place, but IMHO Bladesmithing isn't it. even as a stop-gap tool until better cn be aquired. files While slower and more labor intensive are a better stop-gap then the disk/belt combos like that.
  14. I have a craftsman disk/belt sander similar to the the porter cable one you show. I can attest from personal experience, you don't want it. it will NOT get you by. I would get the buffer sander combo at the very least. However, I will agree with the others, wait and get a proper belt grinder designed for metal working. IF you must get something now then grizzly has some tools that will work. good luck in your search and choice.
  15. i like to think he is just reforging the tip on a broken iron blade.....pre-steel age.
  16. the copies were pakastan made copies...lol
  17. just watched the show using the link provided in the original post. For those who didn't notice, the nova episode is available to watch online using the links above. Awsome show. I only wish I had the confidence in my skills, or lack of skills, to attempt something of such beauty. Thanks for the link.
  18. If your interested in a flux core welder(the no gas mig setups) then you can get a small portable unit from harborfreight for around $100. These are by no means a top quality unit, but I have one and it works for my needs. Several will say these units are junk and will nt last. They may be right, but for how often i weld I have had mine for over 2 years and all I have ever had to replace is the spool of wire. As for a Stick welder I feel a lincoln is the best you can get. I am by no means a professional or an expert. However, the tombstones are great welders. Stick is a little harder to learn compared to mig, but with a little instruction and practive, its not to bad. Good luck and have fun
  19. I do the same as dale, I just soak the fire and allow the residual heat to dry everything. You just have to ensure anough water to put out the fire.
  20. when heated to around 210f pvc becomes rubbery and when cooled is as strong as ever. i used sch40 1/2 white pvc and heated it with a propane plumbers torch. i shaped the guard section with a set of right angle needle nose pliars cooled it in water then cut away and filed smooth the flange left behind. i will be filling the void with epoxy tomarrow to ensure longevity. to flatten the pvc for the sheath i heated it, put the knife in and flattened, until cool, clamped between two 2x4s. now I gotta improve my polishing skills to get a better finish on the blades i make.
  21. I finished the knife today. I chose to make it a neck knife so the hadle and blade would stay in proportion. The blade is made from scrap I hade laying around. the handle from an old tool I had. When I hardened it, it shattered like glass. The handle and sheath are both made from heated and molded PVC pipe. Yes PVC pipe. I learned that little trip from backyardbowyer on youtube. Comments welcome, and expected http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/36677-knife3/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/36676-knife2/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/36675-knife1/
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