Welding Forklift Tine

[Tim McCoy]

I have tried to find a similar thread on IFI with no luck - if there actually is one forgive an old man his lack of computer skills ...

I want to weld three pieces of forklift tine. The photos will helpfully explain what I want to accomplish in the making of an ASO. The tine was cut into four pieces: the "L", a stubb that has been set aside for other use the long end of the tine with the pointed end of that cut off.

The "L" forms one leg of anvil, with a 3x8x10" box channel forming the other leg - setting on a 1.5x10x11" mild steel base. There is a 20" long piece of the tine that will be the face of the anvil (it is tapered) with a hardy & pritchel hole ... the wedged end of the tine will allow the face piece to be level .... again the photos will explain better than I can.

So, I have a 295 amp/220 volt Century arc welder, no tig/mig or gas. Making large bevels on all mating edges, what rod will work "best" and should I lay a first bead with 1016, should the weld be peened, should all pieces be heated before welding? The tine is 1.75" at it's thickest and 4" wide.

Biggundoctor was kind enough cut/mill the hardy & pritchel holes and to mill the ends of most of the pieces - thanks!!

Comments/suggestions please.

[pkrankow]

what someone else did.
Phil

[clinton]

I would go with 7018 1/8 dia rod, some beveling would help get deeper penetration, bevel at 45 degrees so you can get some weld down in there then tack the whole thing together making sure it is square and flat before final welding, I would not worry about peening or preheat

[jmeineke]

That link Phil posted is something you may want to try to incorporate in your design if you want to make those pieces essentially one solid mass. I think as long as they are just lying on top of each other like that and welded at the seams, you'll have some energy loss in your blows. It's a lot more work, but you only have to do it once.

I would pre-heat to 400 and keep an eye on your temperature as you weld, taking time to let it cool (if needed) between passes. I use an infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight to check inter-pass temps. It's generally on sale at just under $30 and it's accurate. Temple sticks are the traditional way to check your temp. You don't want those tines go soft on you. One note - if you use an infrared thermometer, spray paint any shiny metal with some grill black. The emissivity of a shiny surface is different than a dark one and will skew your readings.

I don't know that I'd personally call that an ASO. An ASO is something that looks like an anvil but is junk metal / soft / brittle. I think you'll have a fine working anvil when you're done. Just because it wasn't made at a foundry and have a traditional shape doesn't make it any less useful for moving metal. I think it's going to serve you well when you're finished with it.

Keep the pictures coming!

[pkrankow]

I don't know that I'd personally call that an ASO. An ASO is something that looks like an anvil but is junk metal / soft / brittle. I think you'll have a fine working anvil when you're done. Just because it wasn't made at a foundry and have a traditional shape doesn't make it any less useful for moving metal. I think it's going to serve you well when you're finished with it.

ALO may be better, Anvil Like Object.

Heck, if it works out, it will be an ANVIL, the REAL THING!

Phil

[Mainely,Bob]

ALO may be better, Anvil Like Object.

Heck, if it works out, it will be an ANVIL, the REAL THING!

Phil

That there is an MVA,My Version of an Anvil!
Leastwise that`s what I call the ones I make for other folks.If I make them to their specs then they become a YVA. B)

[jmeineke]

How about NTA? Non-Traditional Anvil

[John B]

Or a NOA Non Orthodox Anvil

[Scott Hightower]

If you were repairing a forklift tine I would use 10018 although I would prefer not to fix it at all. In your case, since you are not putting the tines back on a forklift 7018 will suffice.

Scott
Fab Manager
Welders360.com

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

Plenty of preheat. The draw temperature on those is usually 800-900F, so you won't lose any hardness. 400 is a minimum. Most are 4130 or 8620, a few are 4140. Use as big a rod as you can handle. I'd probably use 3/16 just for speed, but many welders will kick out and take a break after 15 minutes of that. I've bent hundreds of them for a manufacturer.

Scott: you wouldn't actually weld repair a forklift fork, would you? My insurance specifically excludes ANY lifting equipment that has been welded on for any reason, unless done by the factory. I was particularly aware of this because I manufactured a great deal of lifting gear.

[Tim McCoy]

NTA & MVA, I like those! Thanks for the input. Will send photos of the weld up once done. Looks like a little work, but should be plenty strong.

[Mainely,Bob]

Plenty of preheat. The draw temperature on those is usually 800-900F, so you won't lose any hardness. 400 is a minimum. Most are 4130 or 8620, a few are 4140. Use as big a rod as you can handle. I'd probably use 3/16 just for speed, but many welders will kick out and take a break after 15 minutes of that. I've bent hundreds of them for a manufacturer.

Scott: you wouldn't actually weld repair a forklift fork, would you? My insurance specifically excludes ANY lifting equipment that has been welded on for any reason, unless done by the factory. I was particularly aware of this because I manufactured a great deal of lifting gear.

Cronatron sells Cronaweld 333 rod and right on the packaging label it says,"leaf springs,crane booms,lift forks".The label was printed Sept of 1984.
Kind of scary ain`t it?

[arftist]

You don't say whether your machine is ac/dc or whatever, but, the fastest way to weld a lot, is 1/8" 7024. Tack with 7018, keep the work in the flat position while welding with 7024, preheat as mentioned above. For the detractors, anything thicker than 1/8 7024 needs more heat than he has available, with duty cycle and all.

[ThomasPowers]

Unfortunately most anvils used in the history of smithing and in the whole wide world don't look like london pattern anvils so you would really need to call the london pattern anvil an NTA.

Shoot folks use something for a century or two and suddenly they think it's the historical norm!

It's made from a good steel, it's massed for use, ITS AN ANVIL!

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

You don't say whether your machine is ac/dc or whatever, but, the fastest way to weld a lot, is 1/8" 7024. Tack with 7018, keep the work in the flat position while welding with 7024, preheat as mentioned above. For the detractors, anything thicker than 1/8 7024 needs more heat than he has available, with duty cycle and all.

Yeah, but a 300 amp welder is more that a toy. 180 amps is only 60%. A little home/shop welder won't even run 1/8 7024 for very long. 5/32 would be a good choice.

[arftist]

Yeah, but a 300 amp welder is more that a toy. 180 amps is only 60%. A little home/shop welder won't even run 1/8 7024 for very long. 5/32 would be a good choice.

You might be right, just hate to see someone buy a box of rod too big to use, when the 1/8 would have worked.

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

really good preheat cuts down on the need for amperage too.

[Tim McCoy]

Asking the "right" question here is like opening a water spigot when you're dying of thirst ... Thanks for the continued info and opinions.

I have a "manly" arc welder - not a toy from what I can determine.

Century model 110-081 built before '82 looks new
295amp/220volt (AC Only)
20% duty cycle 230/295 amp - 100% duty cycle 95/100 amp

Will handle up to 3/32 rod and lists 7018 as low hydrogen rod for low alloy and hardened metal

... I am new at this, but I think that it'll do the work asked of it. Probably more than I will ever really need and so much more that a HF no-namer. Can't wait to get started.

[monstermetal]

Asking the "right" question here is like opening a water spigot when you're dying of thirst ... Thanks for the continued info and opinions.

I have a "manly" arc welder - not a toy from what I can determine.

Century model 110-081 built before '82 looks new
295amp/220volt (AC Only)
20% duty cycle 230/295 amp - 100% duty cycle 95/100 amp

Will handle up to 3/32 rod and lists 7018 as low hydrogen rod for low alloy and hardened metal

... I am new at this, but I think that it'll do the work asked of it. Probably more than I will ever really need and so much more that a HF no-namer. Can't wait to get started.

Well I wouldn't say its a toy, Its not really up the the task of burning several pounds of heavy rod on a hot day non stop ... Twenty percent duty cycle means at 208V input you can run 230 amps output (or 295A out at 230V in) for two minutes then rest for 8 out of every ten... It does not mean 20 seconds out of every 100..... Dont over do it Not saying it wont do the job, but take it slow... the biggest thing is if you exceed the duty cycle at high amps your weld will suffer...

[eric sprado]

I've had same Century buzz box for years. It will get done what you want,just don't expect it to run full bore for hours!!!Weld for a bit. Go inside and chase whomever you have the nerve to chase around the house for a while. Have some ice tea and go back at it..Seriously-it is a good machine and will build anything you want. Preheat like Grant says. When you take a break cover project with insulating(NOT asbestos) material.I know asbestos is a KILLER but it sure used to keep stuff hot when I was brazing flanges for the Coast Guard in Kodiak.

[Tim McCoy]

I love this place. I have this vision of everyone standing around leaning on the sides of an old pickup's bed, discussing the merits of one welder vs another, comparing methods and suckin' some beers. Lots of agreement, some serious, but well intended chiding and always the comraderie. I thank you all for the input and the friendly manner that you send out your opinions - private and public. There is no way to fail with this much help. That's all for now I think; next is the prep/weld-up and photos with comments about what happens. I'll keep you posted.
B)

[Dragons lair]

I love this place. I have this vision of everyone standing around leaning on the sides of an old pickup's bed, discussing the merits of one welder vs another, comparing methods and suckin' some beers. Lots of agreement, some serious, but well intended chiding and always the comraderie. I thank you all for the input and the friendly manner that you send out your opinions - private and public. There is no way to fail with this much help. That's all for now I think; next is the prep/weld-up and photos with comments about what happens. I'll keep you posted.

Tim, Hate to screw up your vision. You will more likley find me leaning on the anvil with a bourbon and branch.
Trucks usually too dirty. Coronas too warm. Only after 5 But then its 5 oclock somewhere.
Ken.

[meancoyote]

Mmmm... Beer

[maddog]

Just a thought, but if it were me, I would just use the one L shaped piece on its side. Perhaps cut one leg short and round the edges to various radii. Would make a nice anvil, with lots of possibilities for forming.

Other than that, the forks are some kind of spring steel which usually means, pre & post heat and low hydrogen rod like 7018 like everyone says. If you happen to overheat it and draw the temper, it wouldnt be a disaster. That stuff makes a good forging surface even unhardened.

[BM454]

Just a thought, but if it were me, I would just use the one L shaped piece on its side. Perhaps cut one leg short and round the edges to various radii. Would make a nice anvil, with lots of possibilities for forming.

Other than that, the forks are some kind of spring steel which usually means, pre & post heat and low hydrogen rod like 7018 like everyone says. If you happen to overheat it and draw the temper, it wouldnt be a disaster. That stuff makes a good forging surface even unhardened.

7018 is a good rod to use for most things but, on the tines you should use something like 9018 up 11018. Still low hydrogen but a much stronger.