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I Forge Iron

Cutting Plate?

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Interesting idea. Might be worth a try. A mild cutting plate on an 1.5" stem to fit my striking anvil/portable hole might work, too.

On the other hand, my treadle hammer is set up with my main anvil, and that's where I do a lot of heavy-duty splitting (tong reins, for example).

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It would work. For me it's just easier to have a cutting plate for on my anvil. It takes up less realestate and its already where I am working at instead of taking more steps with the hot metal to get to another spot. 

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Here's my two cents.

First, unless you have a substandard anvil, your anvil face should not be in jeopardy. Your tool is the problem.

I've used, and still do use both a thick copper plate and/or any spare piece of mild steel laying around close.

They both work fine. 

Thus,,. KISS applies!

Keep it simple, there is no reason to make a saddle cut off plate. Just more stuff to keep track of. Without a saddle, it's quieter cutting because you can feel when the anvil is under your chisel and keep the vibration under control. Also, no matter what, when you use a cut off plate saddled or not, when you strike or cut into anything, it will draw out, bend, twist, or any other thing you can imagine to keep it from laying flat on your anvil face,,,   thus the noise. If this happens, it's a quick matter to level it on your anvil, then continue. Not so easy if you make a saddle.

Shoot, two cents,,, I should get a nickle back in change for this one.  ;)

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You're making some good points however I suspect your solution is driven by how you work.  Saddles are less likely to get knocked clean off the anvil surface when you're dealing with heavy or awkward stock and a striker.

It seems like you could punch or drill a hole such that they could run a bolt through the cutting plate and the pritchel hole.  If it were 1/4" or 3/8" bolts, you could use uni-strut nuts that have a captive spring.  The spring would help to accommodate any odd angles on the underside of the pritchel hole and the large rectangular nut is as easy to use as a wingnut.    That wouldn't silence the noise, but it would allow the plate to get rotated over when tool edge contact is imminent. 

Alternately, a plate with eye bolts on the corners might be used with bungee straps to the stand/stump.  Chain could also be used with one side tied off, and the other with a foot loop or weight to hold it down.  


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Anvil, this is how you remind me... Absolutely no "Nickle back" on a metal forum! :D(...I'll get me coat) 

I'd say a saddle is hefty important especially for us noobs. I wouldn't want to risk marring my anvil face due beginner's enthusiastic inaccuracy... 


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Sorry, I'll stick with the kiss principal.  

Not meaning  to argue, because you should use whatever tools and in any configuration you choose that suits you.

Lol, my striker(a rare deal this day and age for any of us, truth be known) will strike how I teach him, and there will be no reason for a cut off plate.

And again, no matter what, as soon as you strike your cut off plate, even Indirectly, it will draw out. Now it will no longer lay flat on your anvil face. This means every blow you make, your tool will jump and this Increases the chance of those danged double cut marks on your work. This applies especially if you secure your plate mechanically to your anvil.

Here's an example of a simple cut corner. However there were a danged lot of brackets.

This was one of my first jobs. I can't seem to upload more than one. This was 30 or so years ago. 3/8"*4" angle and 4"X8" flat plate. Probably 50+ brackets.  I can't remember. Note the "beginner" barely champfered edges...  ;) Hot oil finish and still no rust.

If I had used either a saddled cut off plate, or one that was mechanically fastened,,, I'd still be working  on it!!  Lol,  seriously, actually, after say 3 or 4 brackets or flat plates, I'd be losing  time dressing my cutoff plates made 

as you guys suggest.

I used an 8# hammer and my first handled and curved hot cut made from a railroad cold cut. Still got it.

2 hours ago, Meadowgrove said:

. I wouldn't want to risk marring my anvil face due beginner's enthusiastic inaccuracy

As I said, your cut off plate is to protect your hot/cold cut from losing it's edge, not your anvil, unless you have a pretty poor anvil.


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by the way, i used a saddled cut plate for quite a while. that bracket job was the one that got me looking for a better way.  and i still consider ways of mechanically attaching things to my anvil,,  but so far those attempts dont seem to work for me.  there are reasons why i stick to the KISS Principal.  ;)

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I’ve added two layers of inner tube rubber to the underside of the saddle, held to both the metal and each other with some beads of silicone.


(The plastic wrap is to keep any stray silicone from sticking to the anvil, and the coffee can is full of printers’ lead to weigh the saddle down while curing.)

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