Just thought I'd post a pic of some of my first smithing attempts.

Impressive. I really like your tongs :)

Ditto on the tongs, also the 'hold down'. Looks like you're hooked!

Looks good. Keep up the good work.

rivets huh? nice.

nice keep at it

Looks like your getting the hang of things. Now you can hone your skills and move on the more advanced projects. Keep at it.

Good job. Never thought of riveting the poker. Looks good. Keep up the good work.

Looks ok but all the metal is bent and twisted.

J/k good job, keep it up.

Looks good! You are well on your way. Keep up the good work.

Thumbs up, good stuff there.

im a big fan of the riveted fire poker. gives it a nice look.

Keep it up ....good start!

Looking good! What part of Missouri?

thanks for all the kind words everyone. Actually O'fallon MO.

Nice lookin' work, I'm anxious to get that much time at the forge. Thanks for the pics!

Yes very good had not thought of a riveted fire poker and like it now I have viewed one thanks

KB here...
Wonderful!!! Keep it up and be sure to take any class offered in your area. There are many great smiths out there that can help you shorten your learning curve. Trust me the cost is worth it and the teachers look to newbies like you to pass it on in the future. :)

Just finished a large s-hook. Going to make some shorter ones to give as Christmas gifts. Still looking for a good finish. I've used beeswax but my question is....When you wipe it down after sealing, does the beeswax still coat or am I wiping it off? Dumb question I know. Who else but me would know if I am wiping it off. Does the wax permeate the metal or just the outside? Picture is of the hook painted, but I didnt like the finished look. Too store-bought. Also is a leaf letter opener.

Look good. I do not wipe off the beeswax. If it is pooled up I just heat it up and let it evaporate off. Letter openers are pretty good too. Keep at it.

Well done, good work all round.

I really like the tongs and the fire poker.

My only syggestion is for the hold fast, try making the shank longer and the curved holding arm a little shorter, though that one is actually probably just fine. What holds the work is friction between the shank and the pritchel hole so it helps if the shank extends below the bottom of the heal. If the arm is long and gently curved it can allow it to spring while you're working with it and that can let it come loose.

However, if your holdfast does what you want, the way you want it to, don't change a thing.

Frosty

Edited December 8, 200916 yr by Frosty
Spelling. Great White . . . Birch attack, remember?