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I need help forge welding


Apache1

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i need help with forge welding. just can't seem to get it right. i hoped if i got the steel hot enough to melt it would stick, but so far it is very difficult. am i getting it too hot? also, is it necessary to pound the bejesus out of it to achieve a successful weld?

Edited by Apache1
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i need help with forge welding. just can't seem to get it right. i hoped if i got the steel hot enough to melt it would stick, but so far it is very difficult. am i getting it too hot? also, is it necessary to pound the bejesus out of it to achieve a successful weld?



no the first hammer blows need to be 'just enough' you can feel the metal stick..........using overlapping blows weld the billet together. then you can pound as hard as you want :)
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Apache1,

1. clean all surfaces with grinder
2. heat
3. remove and flux everything that will be welded during this session. here was my first major mistake. the heat will oxidize any exposed surface. you want to flux the entire thing well before you let it get really hot.
4. put back in forge and bring up to temp. steel will be color of forge, flux will bubble like mad and look like hot honey.
5. get hammer and striking hand ready.
6. remove from forge, straight to anvil.
7. strike with 2 to 4 firm blows. imagine that you are hitting and then pushing with hammer to stick steel together. try not to let hammer bounce off of the work when you strike.
8. brush off, check welds, re-flux and repeat. same spot, this time emphasize any are(s) that did not weld well the first time.
9. overlap, flux new area repeat from step 4 with new spot.
10 when whole thing is welded, go over it all again at welding heat.
11. now, go over again, but strike on sides. if anything comes loose, stick it back down.
12. if you have any drawing or tapering, do it at a welding heat, and this will help keep things together. be sure not to hit it too cold.

Hope this helps, it works for me in my limited experience. Keep at it, pay close attention to what you do so you can repeat or change. Take a systematic approach to work out variables that don't help or learn those that do.

take care,

Kevin

Edited by kevin (the professor)
weird typo and double post
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Kevin covered it pretty well except he forgot to ask "what steel are you trying to weld?"

Some, like Stainless, are very hard to forge weld, Also what fuel are you using? It makes sense to start by limiting the possibilities for failure and frustration by using the more easy steels at first..

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that initial tap tap tap to get them to mate...those first blows should be kinda like starting a nail, just dont bang for the first heat or two......also as Kevin said clean surface, top of the list, very important ....also dont be afraid to flux 3,4 times or more till your in good....just keep cleaning and heating....make good scarfs.....when you bring it to the anvil try and keep the one piece off the anvil till you drop your tongs and pick up the hammer....its a cool balancing act/dance

Edited by fat pete
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Welcome aboard Apache, glad to have ya.

Welding's been pretty well covered by the guys.

If you'll click "User CP" at the top of the page and edit your profile it can really help. IFI is represented by members from more than 50 countries and a lot of info is location specific. Also, if local folk know you're there they can invite you to get togethers, tip you to tool deals and offer hands on help.

Frosty

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One thing that very few folks mention when pattern welding is 'soaking the welds'

Once I have set a weld fully put the billet straight back into the fire and leave it for a few mins at welding heat. Im sure there is a sciencey expaination for why this makes a stronger weld (electron swapping or migration of carbon / alloying elements along the weld boundary maybe?).

One thing is certain when your pattern welding gets more advanced and you are working *against* your welds (for example the 'W' patterns) you have a much higher success rate if you soak the billet after inital welding.

(the 'W' patterns all basically start with a flat standard billet of say, 10 layers. Once they are welded up the billet is turned through 90degrees on the next hammering so all the layers are pointing up. They are then squashed down against your initial welds so you have 10 very short, very flat layers! - good test of your welding skills :D )

Someone might be able to expain the 'w' pattern a bit better than I have above :rolleyes:

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Try a touch rod to see what temp is the right temp

Draw a point on a piece of 3/16 round.
Start heating the larger pieces
When close to the heat you think is right heat the pointed 3/16 to the same temp. touch the two together in the fire. If it will not stick in the fire it will not stick on the anvil. Sometimes just puching the touch rod to the other piece will weld them enough you cant get them apart.

Doesnt hurt to flux the touch rod also.

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