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I Forge Iron

kevin (the professor)

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About kevin (the professor)

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Cheshire, CT (near New Haven)
  • Biography
    Forensic Psychologist and Professor, but also displaced Texas farmboy
  • Interests
    Reading, knives, guns, camping, most anything low tech and closer to nature
  • Occupation
    Professor of Psychology, Psyc Law and Policy area

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  1. I put the new link in the first post, too. https://picasaweb.google.com/115247891742386906523/DaoForJim#
  2. Hello Everyone, this is what I have really been working on for the last 2-3 weeks, with periodic breaks to make the full-tangs. This is a GIFT to a friend who is retiring. It will be named "Brainslicer" since he is a bio-psychologist. He is also a Viet Nam vet and has practiced Japanese and Chinese martial arts since the late 60's. He will really be thrilled with this. This is far from "perfect" and nothing like what many of you can make. Still, this one came out better than I expected it could. W2 steel (thanks Aldo) 22.5" working length 1.37" wide at shoulders, 1.26" wide just be
  3. oh yeah - Riverside Machine - 2x72 bader clone with modifications, variable speed, 1.5 hp, DELIVERED for less than 2K. This is a serious grinder. Totally Enclosed, Fan Cooled motor, NEMA whatever enclosed electronics.... You could hit this thing with a high pressure washer and not hurt the electrical components, and no dust can get to any of the workings. This is the same quality as a burr king or bader, and the only real difference between this and a kmg is that the supports for the tooling arm are cut from large billets of aluminum (3/4" thick aluminum, so don't even suggest that they mig
  4. Yeah, there was probably a difference in the hardness across the blade. also, dilute the ferric to about 1 part to 4, ferric to water. Then, just etch for about 30 seconds and look at it. You may find that a short etch is better. A more dilute solution will help bring out the differences. Make sure the whole thing is well and truly polished first, then degrease (windex will do this just fine), then etch. sorry if you already know the stuff I am saying. I am just trying to help. kc
  5. I could never get full-tang knives to work, either. Until, I got the new variable speed grinder from Riverside Machine. One of the facebook links shows it. The grinder is essentially a Bader clone, but with a lot of unique features that Al (who owns the shop) came up with. It is a wonderful machine, and getting it opened up a number of doors in terms of fit and finish (and pleasure). There are things I can do with it that I could only do by hand before. Yeah - I beat the heck out of the blade with a little ball peen hammer to drive the scale in, and to also give a small secondary bevel so
  6. Gene, thanks for letting me know. I have the Picasa links fixed. I had to add one to each knife. take care, kc
  7. 43ab0591af4a1ddb2a2b593bcf72e4ba
  8. honestly, I was thinking of making something that looked like a smaller version of a Chinese broadsword. A couple of others have noticed the lineage, too. thanks for the comments. I wanted to make something fun out of monosteel while I was waiting for my hydraulic press to arrive. I will be on a damascus binge after this. kc
  9. Hello Everyone, I don't think I posted this one here. It is a take-off on a cutlass. It has a plate guard instead of a knuckle bow due to a joke on another forum about ninja pirates and a piece made along that line by Jake Cleland of Skye Knives. So, here is my take on that theme. It has a 12" blade, and there is a very active hamon under there. I have polished it better, but my camera is on the fritz. So, this is the best I have. The hamon is so active that one learned friend is pressing me to re-fit this as a wak. I accidentally stumbled upon the right heat range to get a really active
  10. Rich - I can't say a lot about my level of knowledge, but that is a very well-made and beautiful knife. kc
  11. good start. My first blade was ugly. Yours is not. Good sign. The main thing is to share pics and pay attention to what you like in other knives ( and what you don't like). Most of all, listen to the guys on these forums. I only have 18 months of experience. many of these guys have more years than I have months in this craft/art. Luckily, they like to teach and share. If I were you, I would focus on hand-sanding. Take sand paper and wrap it or attach it to something hard and flat. I use a bar of brass or a bar of steel. Then, use this sanding implement like a draw-file. Spend about 5 times
  12. Hello Everyone, I am posting pics of a seax-like thing and a matching maple sheath. This was made to replace the seax that was stolen in the mail. I have found a UPS store where I can trust the people to actually send my packages. I felt bad for the guy who paid me and got ripped-off, so I made this for him. Yes, I have been on a seax trend. 2 reasons - 1, they are from my favorite historical period, and 2, they are the only thing people keep offering me money to make for them. My press should be shipped this week, and I need some cash to catch up. That being said, this is actually the
  13. OK - I can't take it. I had to change the angle of the handle a little. The pics let me see something that needed to change. So, here is the knife now.
  14. Thanks for the positive feedback. I have sort of gotten into this style lately. I will probably go for longer stuff and higher layers and/or more bars when the press gets here. I orderd a press from Uncle Al's Riverside Machine. It seemed pretty good for the price, and he has a dedicated shop of support staff. I spoke with Ron Claiborne, and was probably going to buy one from him, but he is booked until around February. It was a close call in my eyes between them, but the time factor made the decision. I am a college prof, and my best time for bladesmithing is in the summer. I still want
  15. Hello Everyone, I have made a working sized seax with the blade shape roughly based on some museum pics. It has a 6" blade, a 4.25" handle. The spine is wrought iron (with a lot of character), the working edge is 9 layers of 1080 and 15n20,with a twist for looks. I am hoping to move into longer stuff and more bars or more layers soon, when my hydraulic press gets shipped. I think this is a pretty good little knife, in that it approaches a historicall shape. I am at a point where I can see my mistakes much better than I can fix them, so I am at times frustrated. But, I love this stuff, an
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