Bentiron1946 Posted April 23, 2009 Posted April 23, 2009 That is an interesting old hammer. I think that Frosty has already bought one though but I'm sure he could use another. This one could be the great grand daddy of the Appalachian Rusty helve hammer.:cool: Quote
arftist Posted April 24, 2009 Posted April 24, 2009 Future Apalachian Power Hammer builders take note: this hammer design solves the one defect in the design of the Rusty and Dusty series. Rather than a set of rollers which slide along the spring, this heavy duty hammer is directly coupled, spring to tup. The horizontal movement provided by the rollers used on the Dusty style is provided by a link between the mast and the center of the spring pack. I call this a defect, only because of an excess of noise caused by a slapping between the springs and rollers at each end of the stroke. This older design solves this rather readily, and will be incorperated in my next rebuild. Thank you for this posting. Quote
mrmagoolew Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 What a beautiful hammer. Wish it was mine. Lew Quote
Rob Browne Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 Awsome bit of kit but it would be noisey with that motor running it, not to mention the exhaust fumes! Quote
Frosty Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 Who couldn't use another powerhammer and that's one helve an example. Frosty Quote
unkle spike Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 Future Apalachian Power Hammer builders take note: this hammer design solves the one defect in the design of the Rusty and Dusty series. Rather than a set of rollers which slide along the spring, this heavy duty hammer is directly coupled, spring to tup. The horizontal movement provided by the rollers used on the Dusty style is provided by a link between the mast and the center of the spring pack. I call this a defect, only because of an excess of noise caused by a slapping between the springs and rollers at each end of the stroke. This older design solves this rather readily, and will be incorperated in my next rebuild. Thank you for this posting. I see your point on this connection between the spring and the head. But you're comparing a Clydesdale to a Poodle...... The leaf spring by it's "see saw motion" means the end of the spring is moving in an arc, not a straight up and down reciprocating motion like the other hammer designs, helve etc. Something has to make up for this arc, you could make the distance between the spring pivot and the end point long, making this lateral, front to back movement of that pivot point a smaller degree of movement? That won't work, the spring would need to be very long....not an effective hammer. This hammer uses power to over come, not to mention the MONSTER pack of springs. That combined with the MUCH heavier slide/head combo compared to a Rusty means that you can use a diesel engine to power it. In my opinion a fixed pivot point on the head end of a Rusty style hammer, would be too much for a 1/2 or even 3/4 HP motor to overcome, or would have to be such a heavy joint to take the stress, something else would break. The simplest pivot, is the slide between shafts arrangement, much more and it would require a total re-thinking of the design. At most this arrangement will cause some "chatter", which is nothing compared to the dies hitting each other, and the metal you are working. Not a criticizm, just an observation. Quote
Bentiron1946 Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 It is very interesting to see these old hammers that are still operating. It gives a real insight into how men in the past devised great machines to ease the burden of forging large material and to do it faster then before. They may not have had the best running machines but some of them have survived for a long time in part to over design of the machines parts. When you consider how many of these old machines went to the breakers yards it is amazing that it is still with here today to be up for sale on Ebay.:cool: Quote
arftist Posted May 30, 2009 Posted May 30, 2009 I tried to look at this picture again and I just keep getting blank pages. Does it work for anyone else? Quote
Steve Sells Posted May 30, 2009 Posted May 30, 2009 Nope just the white screen. but these Ebay sites don't keep things too long after the sale. Quote
Thomas Dean Posted May 30, 2009 Posted May 30, 2009 This sale/auction has ended and the seller has removed the pics. Quote
arftist Posted May 30, 2009 Posted May 30, 2009 Arr, the frustration. Does anyone remember the makers name of this hammer? It has the solution to the only design problem of the apalacian series(IMO) that I hadn't worked out yet. Thanks I tried calling the owners numbers, but maybe didn't have the right country code. Quote
arftist Posted May 30, 2009 Posted May 30, 2009 The problem is that the vertical motion of the tup is transfered from the spring helve by a set of rollers mounted at the top of the tup. The end of the spring rides between the rollers and either pushes down on a roller or pushes up on the other roller. due to the changing angle of the spring as the hammer cycles, the rollers need to be spaced apart further than the thickness of the spring, in my case, .5" space for a .3125 spring thickness. The result of this space is the production of the bulk of the noise created by this hammer, every time the tup reverses direction. On the hammer in question, this ploblem has been eliminated by having a pivot mount between the tup and the spring helve, with a double pivot link to connect the spring to the mast or frame of the hammer. I know how to recreate it, but it would certainly save me time and mental energy to be able to see the picture again, and make notes. I don't know if you remember when I first built the hammer, I sent you some pictures. At that time, you called it a "real beefeater". Everything else still works fine, but naturaly, anything I can do to make it quieter is worth doing, and would most likely lengthen the maintainence intervaql, by eliminating the shock of the slapping. Quote
Sam Salvati Posted May 30, 2009 Posted May 30, 2009 I have seen some folks rivet or glue leather to the end of the spring, this quiets it down a GOOD BIT. Quote
arftist Posted May 30, 2009 Posted May 30, 2009 I have seen some folks rivet or glue leather to the end of the spring, this quiets it down a GOOD BIT. Thankyou aprentice man, that certainly is simpler than rebuilding almost my entire drivetrain. Quote
Frosty Posted May 31, 2009 Posted May 31, 2009 I like the leather idea. A couple thoughts came to me right off and I'll think about them a while, if any seem reasonable I'll shoot them to you. Frosty Quote
peacock Posted May 31, 2009 Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) Hi All . The problem you speak of was solved years ago by the Bradley company. The helve is attached to the ram(tup) with a leather strap and a rubber cushion. It allows for horiziontal movement with zero slack or noise. This makes the hammer smoother, quieter, and more relieable. Phil http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/3634 Edited May 31, 2009 by peacock Quote
Frosty Posted June 1, 2009 Posted June 1, 2009 Gee. Don't you know how to take all the fun out of brainstorming a good reinvention of the wheel! Frosty Quote
peacock Posted June 1, 2009 Posted June 1, 2009 Frosty Didn't mean to spoil your fun. I would be glad to retract but I don't know how to strike the image from your mind. Phil Quote
Dragons lair Posted June 2, 2009 Posted June 2, 2009 Bring in a big striker give him a huge hammer tell him when i nod my head hit it hard. Image will vanish.(GRIN) Ken Quote
Frosty Posted June 2, 2009 Posted June 2, 2009 Gee you guys are real PALS arent you? I hope you won't be terribly hurt if I don't take your suggestions? Frosty Quote
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