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I Forge Iron

mrmagoolew

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Everything posted by mrmagoolew

  1. Hi, folks. Thanks for all the replies. Just say that I want to spend $350 to $400 on an anvil. What could I get for that? New or a very good used one.
  2. Hi, folks, I'm new to this type of stuff. I was wondering if anyone could guide me in the right direction as far as brand names of some really good anvils and what type they should be to make some knives. I'd like a very good quality anvil, but don't know anything about them. I figure that is the first major thing that I should purchase. I have looked at some plans for a homemade forge to heat the metal and I'm beginning to gather the material for that. I have several good hammers and some tongs already, so I guess the next step is the anvil. I'm not going to do this professionally, but I'd still like a good anvil. Thanks, Lew
  3. Hi Guys, I doubt if I'd be using that area on the anvil. When I get set up, I'd like to start making some knives, and there is plenty of space on the face to do all the pounding. I'm new to all this stuff, and have visions of making larger camp or survival type chopping knives. I'd like to start out with something like a 10" cutting edge and go up from there. At least the anvil is a good start. Thanks, Lew
  4. Hi, I was just wondering if you tried Craigslist.org You might find something there within driving distance. I picked up an anvil last night. A 450# monster. I used an engine hoist to get it off my pickup. I don't know what the name is on it yet, as it has a lot of paint on it. I'm gonna get that off and see what it is. Hopefully at least. Either way, it has a nice ring to it when hit with a hammer. I'm a newbie, and that was what I was told to listen for. I know where there are 3 more anvils in my area, and I'm gonna go look at them over the weekend. One is supposed to be a Hay Budden 140#, and i'm not sure of the other two. I'll check them out as soon as I can and I'll post whatever I find out. Lew
  5. Well, whether it is or isn't a good brand, I picked it up last night. It was too dark to see much, and it's still sitting in the back of my pick up right now. It had been painted over so many times, that I don't see anything on it. I'm thinking about getting some paint remover and trying to clean it up. Should I do that? Maybe then, I'll be able to see some identifying marks. The only thing I didn't like about the anvil, was that someone appears to have drilled a couple of holes into the surface just in front of the face, up towards the horn. I doubt if they were there from the factory, so I'm thinking of cleaning up the threaded holes and plugging them with hardened bolts, cutting them off close, then grinding them down to flush, and calling it good enough. Any thought on the repairs? Thanks, Lew
  6. Well, Guys, I got an answer for the S7 steel block. Way too much money. I contacted a local company here, and got a quote of roughly $1,425, delivered from Chicago. I did manage to find a used anvil locally, and I'm supposed to go look at it either tonight or tomorrow. The guy told me it was a forged anvil, and about 450#. I'm supposed to get it for $475. I didn't really want an anvil that big, but for the price, if it's in good shape, I guess I'll be getting it. Lew
  7. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I don't think you'll find any stones like that over here. The TRUE japanese water stones that I have seen, the rectangular ones that Tom Powers was talking about, are hundreds of dollars each. One of those wheels, if you could get it, would probably be tens of thousands of dollars. The flat ones are quarried out of the mountains in Japan, and graded for size and quality. The ones I've seen are about 2" X 3" X 10" and they start out at about $400 for cheaper stones. I even doubt if you could get one directly from Japan, as the quarries are running out of stone that is good quality. The Japanese are saving the stone for themselves, and that is why you are seeing the synthetic stones showing up. Lew
  8. Yea, I was thinking more like a block about 4" X 12" X 24", and taking it to a heat treat shop about 4 miles from here. They have done plenty of work for my previous employer, and have pick up and delivery. Living here in the steel city of Pittsburgh, I'll probably have no problem getting the steel. It's just what it will cost. I'll look into it, but may change my mind if the costs involved will be too high. If I can deal with the same steel company that my employer dealt with, I can probably even have the raw block delivered to my house. I'd have to see if it would need ground, then I can take it into heat treat. Maybe, if I can get it all together, I'll even get some handling holes drilled and threaded for 3/4" eyes for lifting. I'll have to make some calls, ASAP. Lew
  9. You can definately heat treat the steel. I have been a tool and die maker for over 30 years. While you may be able to heat treat it at home, I would tell you to take it to a heat treat shop. They will do a much better job, and you'll be able to work on all four sides if needed. It will take a lot of propane to get it up to the proper heat to harden, and you will also have to be able to hold that heat for a good while to soak to temperature. You will also have to hold the heat during the temper process. Going by memory, I think tempering should be done at about 500 degrees. But that has to be done at a constant 500, not in a kitchen oven or even a gas forge. They are not accurate enough, to my knowledge. You can probably look on the internet to get the exact heat treat spec for the hardness that you want if you want to try it yourself. You would probably need a large acetylene torch with a rosebud to even get it close to right. I worked with large ovens, so I really don't know for sure if it will work at home. Just my thoughts. Lew
  10. Thanks, Guys, I was wondering how a block of S7 steel, heat treated of course, about the same size as an anvil would work? I'd want it heavy enough, so it wouldn't be bouncing around. I've worked with S7 before, and it is very impact resistant when heat treated. Right now, I'm unable to find my heat treat book, and I just wouldn't know how hard to make it. RC50 or something like that? Any thoughts? I live near Pittsburgh, Pa. and may be able to get a piece of the S7 off the company that my previous employer dealt with. They sell all kinds of tool steels and carbon steel also. Lew
  11. Hi, Frosty, I don't have the anvil. I saw a couple of them on Ebay, but they had chipped edges. I didn't know whether to bid on anything like that or not. A few of them looked pretty bad as far as the edges of the face were concerned. One looked like it had chips as large as a 1/2". I've thought about possibly buying one of the Kowlswa anvils, but they are a lot of money for a beginner. I emailed a place that is supposed to sell them, but haven't gotten a reply yet. I thought of a Peddinghaus, but they are way too expensive for my blood. BTW, What are the most common sizes for hardie and pritchel holes?
  12. Hi, Guys, I'm new to this blacksmithing stuff, and I have a question about an anvil. Is it possible to repair an anvil that has chipped edges? Could it be welded up and refinished? Would it be better to machine the top off and replace the top with a hardened but tempered piece of tool steel? The top is OK, but the edges are pretty chipped up. I was thinking of starting to try to make some knives, and this would be an anvil I would be starting out on. Thanks, Lew
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