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I Forge Iron

Tire or helve hammer??????


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Alright . I have decided that a power hammer of MY own at my OWN shop would make my life MUCH easier. But I am having a problem on decideng what would be BEST for me. I want it to be able to draw stuff out, and want to also use SOME tooling , for slitting hammer eyes, etc. Would a Tire hammer or would Jr`s Helve hammer be best for what I`am looking for? I would prefer the helve cause the size . But not real sure about using slitter and stuff under it cause the way the head comes down, then the question of can a Clay spencer Treadle hammer be able to slitt hammer eyes?
Chris

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The Appalachian and Rusty are the same critter.

Tire is only the drive mechanism and replaces belt and pullies. It has no inherent bearing on what kind of hammer you build. It's a lot simpler than belt and pully drives and probably safer.

Have you downloaded Google Sketchup Chris? It's a good way to swap drawings for brainstorming these kinds of things.

Frosty

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I agree with Jymm
Air hammer has a much larger throat making it easier to get tall tooling in.
That said I have seen Clay demonstrate his tire hammer a couple of times and it was the best running 50# little giant style hammer I have ever watched. But then most of the LGs I have watched were at least 75 years old.
Clay uses spring swages so there is some room and a shourt slitter would work but you are not going to be able to drift with it were you could with an air hammer.

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probably got the spelling wrong, but I am most pleased with the one I built, and the tooling makes it very versatile, more so than my skill to use it, in fact.
I was able to install it by myself, with my tracor and a chain, and it's not to bad to muscle around.

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I love my tire hammer, though I cheated and just bought it from Clay. The throat is low and it isn't easy at all to slit a hammer with it. I have been meaning to make some really short dies for when I need to do a lot of chisel/slitting/punching work, I have also been thinking about making a small slitting chisel about 1 inch long to start a hole from either end before moving up in size but I'm not sure if even that is too large if I'm making a hammer out of 2" steel. I use lots of spring tooling with it for tenons, making balls, etc.. I also do lots and lots of drawing out. I think it is a beautiful design. I love the simplicity and ready availability of parts if I ever need any.

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You're right to a point Jeff.

NEVER put a tool under the hammer by hand!

However a power hammer with good control is a joy to use with tooling. A couple weeks ago I slit and drifted 1/2" holes through 1" sq. in one heat with very little personal sweat.

This is harder to do with a mechanical hammer though but not impossible by a long shot.

The earlier comment about a tire hammer not having enough ram height for tooling got me thinking and I THINK I have a solution. I'll need to draw it up and see if there are any obvious flaws. If not, I'll get back with the idea.

Frosty

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You're right to a point Jeff.

NEVER put a tool under the hammer by hand!

However a power hammer with good control is a joy to use with tooling. A couple weeks ago I slit and drifted 1/2" holes through 1" sq. in one heat with very little personal sweat.

This is harder to do with a mechanical hammer though but not impossible by a long shot.

The earlier comment about a tire hammer not having enough ram height for tooling got me thinking and I THINK I have a solution. I'll need to draw it up and see if there are any obvious flaws. If not, I'll get back with the idea.

Frosty


I would like to see how you do this safely Frosty, would imagine it takes the correct tooling and technique. Being new to power hammers, I can't see how I would do it. A sketch or picture of tooling and setup would be an immense help.
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A couple things.

tooling for use under a power hammer needs to be handled or designed to use with tongs. It's short to clear the dies and to be less likely to fly off from an off plumb blow from the hammer.

What I've been considering for a mechanical power hammer is a version of a conventional tire hammer, LG style. However, the helve of the Appalachian style hammer is appealing for it's simplicity. As is true in so many machines the simpler the design the few problems are likely to arise.

So, one design I've been thinking about is a helve with a tire drive, the tire being simpler and more robust. If you look at the connection between the tup and the spring helve, it's simply a pair of rollers with the spring passing between.

What I was thinking was extend the tup upwards, say 6" and put roller mounts at the tup and another set 6" higher. For normal forging the helve connects at the higher set of rollers. For using tooling it connects at the lower set, raising the tup's operating stroke 6".

It was just a spur of the moment thought so I haven't done any sketches or taken any little mental tours of the thing. So it's just a thought at the moment.

Frosty

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I have to say that did put a grin on my face George and coupled with getting to spend a few hours at the fire, I'd say. Yes, I'm happy thank you. :D

The tutorials are really handy, they'll get you up and drawing pretty quickly.

Frosty

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