BlackSmithBear

Keep right on doing what "looks/feels" right...It's a very nice knife...the pattern is fantastic. Bear

I'd like to thank you all as well! I found a place near me that makes up cables for the logging industry up here in northern NH. They were quite happy to give me drops left over. I have some 1"+ that I'm saving until I get a little better at the welding process, but here is what I managed with some 3/4 cable...This piece had a termination block on it, and was about 6" long outside the block. I used a much smaller hammer than I do for regular forging, and medium taps got it sticking nicely. I'll be heating it up again, and forging it flat from the (now) edge, as the Professor suggests. This was my first attempt, and it's a bit more difficult doing it with a coal forge. Bear I seem to be unable to post the pics now...will try again.

Still waiting on those other pic's, Interested in building one myself. Bear

What a beautiful knife! I like the "flow" of the blade especially...GREAT WORK!!! Bear

do you have a pic of the clayed blade prior to heat treating? Might be a good way to learn from your experience. Bear

I found a website that will convert cwt-qtr-lb into US or metric weight... " Hundredweights, Quarters and Pounds Calculator ". It's much easier than remembering the values and trying to do it in your head... Bear

Keep looking on Ebay, there's a guy selling tuyere's, and under the fire grates. Pretty reasonable prices too. Bear

I have found that brushing , or wiping on some boiled linseed oil while the metal is still hot(not heat colored, but black) will give a nice black finish that helps keep it from rusting. Bear

I agree with irnsrgn...EDM is the process, and the liquid is called dielectric fluid...basically a non conducting oil (used for "plunge" EDM). Later processes like "wire EDM" uses water to flush the spark generated slag away to prevent re-welding. Bear

There are six bearings on the 400, you may need to replace them all. Bear

For your coal, you want bituminous, rather than anthracite... Bear

The tapered nuts will adjust the shaft to run true and well...don't tighten too much or the resistance can be hard to crank. Bear

Check the bearings...my 400 had frozed(rusted) bearings. Bicycle bearings (in cages) from coaster brake bikes) fit nicely, and work great. Bear

Found an interesting "trick" by accident...I work in a park that replicates a 1020's logging camp, and all the buildings have wood stoves, that the humidity was making rust on. I used a water based "stove polish/stove black" which requires wiping down with a rag after drying. On returning to the Blacksmith shop, I noticed that the anvils, and vises were also rusting a bit. I sprayed them with WD-40, and the only rag I had was the one I'd wiped the stoves down with. Xxxxxx if it didn't transfer some of the carbon black onto them...looks real nice too! Bear

I have been using bicycle bearings to replace the loose ball bearings in my 400 blower, the ones you can find in a small bike with coaster brakes. Bear

Ahhhh! No doubt designed by M. C. Escher, to keep the unwary from fallling into the water supply trough for his Waterwheel! Bear

Dickb, Your hardening process seems pretty good...try heating the water(quenching other pieces of metal first, to getit hot). I think your main problem is your tempering! You should NOT quench after getting your "color"!!! Let it air cool. Bear

Just started working at the Northern Forest Heritage Park in Berlin NH. It's a replica of a 1920's Logging Camp, and I was fascinated by the blacksmith shop. I watched a smith at work doing demo's for local schoolkids, and had many questions for him. He only does the demo's for kids, and, as the Park has other events, I managed to get myself into the position! I have since acquired a cast iron forge, and a buffalo 400 blower for my home smithy. I expect to ask many questions here, and to learn much. Anyone interested, the website is Northern Forest Heritage Park in the events section, there is a photo gallery, with a pic of me at the forge. Bear/wdb2