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BlackSmithBear

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Everything posted by BlackSmithBear

  1. BlackSmithBear
    Are you sure you actually have a Peter Wright there? There does not appear to be the "trademark" step on the feet. ( I use a 176 Lb PW at work and have a 278Lb'er at home). Perhaps it has markings that you can see "Wright" or part of it? If so it may be az Henry Wright(Peter's brother) and might be more valuable... Bear
  2. BlackSmithBear
    That 2L might just be "21" with a "scar" making it look like an L...in which case it would be 245 Lbs. Bear Is there a slight "step"or "ledge" across the feet? If so it may be a Peter Wright as suggested above.
  3. BlackSmithBear

    Hi...I was reading the post about moving large stock, and saw that you had tire hammer plans. Would it be possible to get a copy? I have a friend who's a professional welder who would do all of that work, so it would be done right. I'm looking to save my ageing joints.

  4. BlackSmithBear
    Found these two hammers on Ebay, they both have some form of metal added to the handle end. The shorter hammer seems to be a user added end piece, while the hammer with the other tools seems to have been made that way. http://cgi.ebay.com/cast-iron-farrier-cobbler-lazy-susan-blacksmith-tools-/290505443004?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a37946bc#ht_506wt_973 http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Blacksmith-hammer-Steel-Ferrule-end-/360248387852?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e07a290c#ht_600wt_739
  5. BlackSmithBear
    $400.00 for a 149 lb anvil is $2.68 /Lb. A bit steep in my mind. Try making an offer, and/or arranging a payment plan. Taking pics and posting them will give us a better idea of it's condition and help us to advise you.Be sure to get a good pic of the "Label" side, as the markings tell a lot about when it was made.
  6. BlackSmithBear
    It's a HENRY Wright, Peter's brother. The fact it's stamped "ENGLAND" shows it was made on or after 1910. The "141" is in Lbs, as the highest the middle number in Cwt can go is 3. Not a bad anvil at that price. It's possible that it was intended for the American market and was marked in pounds for that reason. Anyone out there with AinA that could check this one out?
  7. BlackSmithBear
    I agree with Phil and ken. It sure has a "colonial" shape and the pritchel hole was probably added later(possibly placed where it is because they couldn't/wouldn't drill thru the face).
  8. BlackSmithBear
    "ENGLAND" was added in 1910 at the behest of the UK Govt.
  9. BlackSmithBear
    I used a wire brush in a drill to remove rust and then rubbed my 278 lb PW with an oily rag. It gave a nice black finish that almost looks like it was painted black. After use, I rub down the surfaces I used with the same oily rag to prevent further rust. It has worked very well!
  10. BlackSmithBear
    Look at Sask Mark's photo again. In addition to the anvils the kids are posing with, lurking behind the pile, just waiting to STRIKE it's own anvil, I see a "Western Giant" power hammer....See how far his malaise has progressed...he resorts to hiding the really good stuff from the rest of us....typical with advanced cases!
  11. BlackSmithBear
    Your Peter Wright anvil is PRE-1910. In 1910 the British Govt. required exports to be marked with "ENGLAND" stamped into the anvil on the same side as the name.
  12. BlackSmithBear
    Try the ABANA website, they have instruction plans for making tongs and quite a few other things.( http://www.abana.org/resources/education/chf.shtml ) There may also be some here in the Blueprint section. Good luck!
  13. BlackSmithBear
    A wooden box type forge would probably be just right for the time/situation you are looking for. The box is built, filled with rocks and sand around the fire pit with a piece of pipe coming in from the side, fed by a bellows on the outside. I could get dimensions and draw up a sketch if you like.
  14. BlackSmithBear
    In the third pic, the rear foot seems to have a slight PW style "step", but the front foot does not show a step. There does appear to be a "parting" line on the front of the anvil(Horn end). Perhaps a casting made using a PW for the pattern, with poor quality pattern sand that causer a larger horn and no front step to the foot? Does the face seem harder than the body? That defect on the side could possibly also be from casting sand slumping.
  15. BlackSmithBear
    2 2 4 would be 284 lbs (112x2)+(28x2)+4 Nice size anvil.
  16. BlackSmithBear

    was in the chat tonight, you asked who might want a 200 lb Bradley. I might be interested.

  17. BlackSmithBear
    I was going to comment on your not leaving tabs to bole thru the anvils built in lugs on the base plate, then noticed you ran a strap underneath it to do so. Wouldn't it have been a stronger build to have bolted anvil direct to the bottom plate? Did you have a reason for not doing that? Bear
  18. BlackSmithBear
    I'm using a stump with my 120# Trenton,fastened down with a forged clamp on two ends of the anvil Lag bolted into the stump. I copied this hold down from the one in the historic shop I work in.
  19. BlackSmithBear

    I posted some pics of the "Period" shop I work in, 1890-1920. I'd be happy to help with your project. What time frame are you considering?

  20. BlackSmithBear

    I posted some pics of the "Period" shop I work in, 1890-1920. I'd be happy to help with your project. What time frame are you considering?

  21. BlackSmithBear
    I work in a "Period" Blacksmith shop 1890-1920 and would be happy to send some pics to you, Here's some for a tease... Bear in mind that this park is a recreation of a logging camp, way out in the woods type. Accordingly the forge is a wood box type that could be constructed in the woods, with the available materials. It was originally a "Side Blast" forge, but has since been converted to bottom blast, without being visibly apparent. BlackSmithBear
  22. BlackSmithBear
    120# Trenton, good condition, $100.00, 2009, bought locally. $.833/Lb 278# Peter Wright, Fair condition, $350.00, 2010, 1 hr drive. &1.26/Lb BlackSmithBear
  23. BlackSmithBear
    Chris, First, thanks for your service! Second, email me your mil address, and I'll mail you out a cross peen hammer. Good luck with the smithing, and come home safe and in one piece! BlacksmithBear@ymail.com Bear, US Army '67-'74
  24. BlackSmithBear
    Have you given a thought to specializing in Anvil Repair? That's a beautiful job you did, and there are many of us who lack the skills to do such a job! Many of the older anvils out there could use some repairs, I know my 278 PW needs some work, but who to trust with "my baby"?
  25. BlackSmithBear
    Nice score! If you're going to use the post drill for parts, I'm looking for the support cap that goes on the bottom of the table support bar. I have a champion that looks very much like yours, works fine, but missing that one piece.
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