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I Forge Iron

Bob S

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Posts posted by Bob S

  1. They look like they haven't been used in a while but I didn't notice any broken parts.

    I did wonder about the spring in the last picture. It is adjusted waay in. I usually adjust
    mine (25lb) so the adjustment screw just starts compressing the spring...and then I back off
    a hair. I got to wondering today if that adjustment is correct and if anyone adjusts
    the spring one way for a particular reason and another way for another reason.

    Anyone know?

    Looking again I wonder if the spring in the last picture is the correct spring?

    Bob

  2. In my world a good, 'bench ready'' vise is worth $2 per pound and up. A 4" vise
    is usually around 50lbs and a 6" usually weighs around 100lbs. By 'bench ready' I mean
    that all parts are there and fit and work together and it can be put up and used
    without further ado.

    This is cheap in todays dollars.

    Cheers.


  3. post-13589-0-98210500-1292190278_thumb.jpost-13589-0-23726000-1292190319_thumb.jpost-13589-0-37173200-1292190356_thumb.j

    Here are some photos of the hammer. It was first bought in 1916. It appears to have what some call plow dies. I reckon I should switch these out??


    I would buy a set of dovetail adaptors from Sid. They fit into the top and bottom dovetail and then stay there. Make your own dies easily with matching edges, radius/ etc.

    post-91-0-76342800-1292259468_thumb.jpg

  4. No sir. It's an odd piece in that they fitted a dowel or an L shaped piece of wood in the end and used it that way. Not sure why that is so, but I'm very confident that is how it was used. Otherwise having the 2 inch (approx) deep circular mount on the end is pointless and detrimental to being used as a wedge.


    possibly used with a handle like this?


  5. Heres a clapper die i made to put a little wiggle in my life. I've made a few and this one has graduated depths and distances between the round rods creating a bit of a tapered wiggle. I use it under a hydraulic press but a sledge would do just fine. The stock is 3/4 round with a long taper. I made a beer owner out of one of the samples. And I just used it!!


    that's one gnarley looking 'die' but hey it seems to work fine. That's
    something I like about working hot metal... the tools can
    be.... well... 'gnarley' and work just fine.

    I like the 'deformed' wiggle best.biggrin.gif

    the opener is cool too.

    Bob
  6. It's not too late to alter your project. My suggestion would be to cut out your whole grate. Then make a half sphere that will fit in the place of the grate. Drill a hole in the top of the half sphere for your air, then weld into place with the dome and air hole up.

    This way the clinker can flow down below the air hole and accumulate there without plugging up the fire. Clinker can be removed like a donut.

  7. But why bother with the half round and V shapes at all. What are they for in todays shop?

    I guess they used to be used with corresponding top tools. How many of us are swaging 1-1/2" bars
    down to 1"? Most of the top and bottom tool work in my shop is done by several 'guillotine' type, anvil
    mounted, top and bottom tools.

    The Saltfork blocks referenced earlier here look like decent blocks for a fair price but their main
    usefulness (to me) would be the bowl, spoon and shovel depressions.

    If necessary half round swages can be improvised with pieces of pipe.


  8. Hi everyone, like i said...i also built my own coal forge. But i am noticing a lot of newbies (including myself) speaking up and swinging hammers. That's a good thing right?

    Well here it is. I couldn't afford to buy this rivet forge i had my eye on, so i got some materials from work (for free) and had the table at home (not being used). So, i saved about $150 bucks and built my own.

    Although, i built it, it's not my design. I got it from doing some reading and research on this forum. It is not quite ready to light but it's close. I do want to find an authentic hand crank blower, i need to fab a trap door on the bottom, and (for my small garage) I want to put it on wheels so i can roll it outside.

    O'Yeah, there is my small hammer collection hanging on the rail.


    nice job of fitting and welding. But with your air inlet all the way on the bottom and with no clinker breaker you are going to spend a lot of time working on keeping your fire breathing. I see you can buy a cast iron pot with clinker breaker for $259.95 here http://www.centaurfo...nfo/CENTVULCAN/

    That said I remember a few articles years ago in the Abana magazine that suggested a raised air inlet with space around it that clinker could flow down and keep from plugging up the air. I also remember reading that clinker will stick to a steel pot more readily than cast.

  9. I wasn't sure where to put this, in Anvils, Machinery, or Problem Solving.....

    Anyway, as I've mentioned on other threads, I purchased three 85-lb steel blocks to fabricate an anvil while I was waiting to find a good commercial one. And I've found an anvil to buy. I thought about building a 270-lb anvil anyway, but I've also thought about using one or two for swage blocks. My available tools are angle grinders, 4X6 band saw, 1-hp drill press, and my bench horizontal mill.

    V-Cuts in the edges should be pretty straight-forward, as would be through-holes of varying diameters. The drill press will turn down to 180 rpm, and the mill gets down to 68 RPM, which my handy calculator says can hog out a 2-1/4" and 5-1/4" hole, respectively. So with some big drills and ball-end mills, I should be able to do pretty good-sized half-rounds and spherical depressions.

    So...

    Anyone have any feedback on where I can purchase reduced-shank large diameter end mills? Is this possible, or even advisable? Am I missing something else that I should consider?



    I guess you *could* do that. Or you could save yourself some wear and tear and make
    individual swages, as needed, out of appropriately sized material.

    Then weld a shank on that fits your hardy hole.

    If you decide on mike-hr's plan I hope you take lots of pictures. Preferably video.


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