Bob S

My 200lb Trenton is a little soft. A hard hammer will leave a ding. I don't know if it has ever been in a fire. I have never thought to see if a file would bite.

But it's no problem for me. I softened the faces of my forging hammers. I'm careful not to to use these hammers on chisels or cold steel.

Any way I would never go thru what it would take to reharden 200 lbs. I'd get a new (harder) anvil first.

Good luck.

Bob

I seem to have run into an all to common problem with hobbies like blacksmithing; All the old guys are gone.

Logan
(Drq)

When you notice that 'all the old guys are gone'......

you're the old guy.

Welcome to geezerhood.

Bob

Anyone know how to sharpen plowshares ? Or know of a good tutorial ?
Logan
(Drq)

some information here...

http://www.lostcraft...cksmith-46.html

more here....

http://www.ntractorc...sages/2096.html

I will sell my copy for $50 plus shipping. Minor wear and tear on dust cover. No visible wear on pages. No folds, marks etc.

Send me private if interested.

Bob

sold.

I will sell my copy for $50 plus shipping. Minor wear and tear on dust cover. No visible wear on pages. No folds, marks etc.

Send me private if interested.

Bob

Hi Randy.

I am in Winona County about 1/2 hour +- from Rochester.

Give me a call at 507 875 2592.

Bob

Do you have any other suggestions?

Thanx

depends. Are you looking to own a special "I made it myownself' anvil or are you looking to do some forging?

If you're interested in forging take a look at the numerous excellent photo sequences here that show the anvil used by Brian Brazil. I know this isn't spelled exactly right but someone will follow up with a link I hope. (apologies to Brian).

Brian is able to hammer out some of the nicest work on this site using a home made block of steel anvil on three legs. Take a look.

You would probably get better information (and maybe a buyer) by asking your question at a machinist forum.....like this...

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/

Posted Today. June 4, 08:17 AM

From Kirsten this morning on Facebook:

"Bill passed away early this morning, just in time to start off his new path with the sunrise, his favorite time of day."

RIP

Very sad news. I miss Bill already.....

Bob

. I can tell ya a chromed anvil ain't worth spit. ...... weld and dress if able or leave it alone.
Ken.

tru dat. chrome an anvil? very lame idea.

my opinion.

I got the below message about Bill from his wife
Bill was one of the pioneers in damascus steel revival in the US

Roger,

Thanks for posting this. I sent Bill a card last week after your posting that he was ill.

Please keep us informed about a later memorial service for Bill.

Very sad news. Bill was a good guy.

Bob Schade

I have 'squared up' vises by using shims cut from coke cans. Just decide which way you have to go and slide in a shim or two down on the hinge. It doesn't take much unless your vise was in a wreck. These vises were (in my experience) pretty rough forgings. I guess they figured the blacksmith could make it work.

Bob

Would it matter which is located upwards

it would be perfect if you were in Austrailia.

While trying to remove the blower blade assembly I managed to bend one of the

One "rule" that has served me well is 'if it wasn't put together with a hammer, don't take it apart with a hammer'.

Good luck with your blower.

Bob

I'm trying to remove the fan on this same blower, but having no luck whats so ever. Does the jamb nut twist off? Right hand or left hand threads? Not wanting to bend/break anything, I figured I would ask first. The reason I'm trying to get it off is the seal behind the fan leaks badly. Could I pack with grease, or is oil the way to go? Any other thing that might be helpful with this is appreciated. Thank you for your help in advance.

these blowers run at low rpm. They really don't need to run in a case filled with oil. A squirt now and then will be fine. imo

if it works don't fix it.

Bob

not sure if that is good news or bad news.

West coast prices are quite a bit higher than most of whats been quoted... $150-$250 for a nice vise is reasonable here.. There are always exceptions and deals to be had... Ive sold at least 40 vises in the last 5 years ranging from $60-$1200.. Dont worry that your getting taken if you spend $200 on a nice clean 6" vise.. If its real nice its a bargain at $200..

$2 per pound for a good condition, bench ready vise is a steal. It will last as long as you do and then your chilrens and then their chilrens can use it.

Have you guys noticed things like the price of gasoline? A six pack and a pizza will set you back near $100. Try this. Put a hundred dollars in your pocket. Go to town. Do things. Go home. Now count your money.

See what I mean?

An item that has real value.... like a tool. Is cheap at $2 per pound.

Cheap.

Not Kidding.

Does anyone have a good removable die system for their LG 25 they be willing to share here?

Sid at Little Giant has a set of drilled and tapped dovetails that stay in the hammer. Your shop made dies screw on and off. Works great.

Somebody else already told me these things, and without the snark. . ;-)

That was the best part.

Hard work. New ones aren't cheap...

http://www.mcmaster....reakers/=buhxwa

Charge enough to make plenty of money or don't take them.

Bob

I've got a new style 25 lb. Little Giant. Both the sow block and the cone-shaped part of the frame it sits on are hollow.

tru dat.

Bob

Your design is very nice. This is my somewhat simpler version (about 24" tall).

Bob

I bought a LG with a chipped bottom die. the chip is fair sized but other than that not worn much at all and still plenty tall. Should I heat it, weld it, and re-treat it or should I just get another die? Has anyone run into a similar situation?

Hard to say what a 'fair sized' chip is without pics or further info. You also don't say where the chip is?

But if it wasn't too big and the location was doable I would probably grind it out and blend it in. If you're hitting HOT steel it shouldn't be an issue.

Bob

I think he means Australia.

down under mate.

ok while were on this topic i may aswell ask my question, i have a canedy otto blower and i am restoreing it, i cand seem to get the plate protecting all the gears off, i undid all the screws and took off the handle but it seems to be catching on somthing inside the gear box, is there a trick to getting it off?

ask this guy....

http://www.iforgeiro...er-restoration/