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Posts posted by Bob S
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Too bad. I have his dvd and still watch it from time to time.
Tim (and his wife Marion) sure seemed to do a lot with not so much which is pretty impressive to me.
A chunk of iron in a bucket of concrete for an anvil and brush for charcoal. And a lot of hard work.
Best of luck to Tim wherever he is.
Bob -
What does that mean? Did he retire?
Bob -
in Indiana they call these 'coleslaw' anvils.
just saying.
Bob -
Is there any reason to get such large anvils, If its all beginner students then i would think something in the 150 range would be just fine. We have EURO Anvils at our school, have held up just fine for the past six years with lots of striking and pounding from beginners. I think there in the 150 range. As long as there secured well to stands and maybe fixed to the ground then that size should be great. If students will be striking all day long with 18lb hammers then i would certainly look for something heavier, but people just lurning and hammering be hand then 150 is perfectly fine. The anvils have a few little dings here and there but all are vary minor, and im quite surprised at how well they have help up from the abuse. Personally i dont really like the shape, and having the hardy hole next to the horn is just stupid in my opinion. But all in all they work fine every day, day in and day out, and there cheep too! I would certainly stand by Euro anvils, and am sure they would hold up fine in any full time professional shop
Agree with all that. I remember hearing that Francis Whitaker worked his whole life (80's) with a 150lb anvil. He also had a 25lb Little Giant.
Today beginning blacksmiths have to have massive anvils and Nazel powerhammers. Could it be that they are overcompensating for something?
Bob -
Your last name and a five digit zip code will enable people to find you for a long time.
Bob -
I don’t mean to be ignorant but what is it about the Hofi hammer that makes it to great?
it's quenched in koolaid.
Bob -
Great looking hammer!
Also compliments on your video work. Very nice presentation.
Bob -
Sad news. All the best to your Dad and to you and your family.
Bob -
I have to wonder how we got away from that "whip" principle that makes all the difference in a mechanical hammer when building a treadle hammer.
Good question. I have wondered the same thing. I think it was something about the arc the 'swingarm' type hammers have which is more of an advantage than a problem. The 'straight line' type hammers came out and suddenly they were the standard.
I've been happy with my Clay Spencer type hammer.
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Kidding of course but my diet is nothing but meat eggs and cheese. And I am healthy as an ox and have no problem working long hours every day...
My comment would be if it works keep doing it. If it does not. Change
The problem is that you won't find out how your current plan is working till you get into your 50's+. Then it's often too late or at least much harder to turn back.
Best of luck to you. It must be great to be 39!
Bob -
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Just my opinion but I think the price is too high. At 200lbs the 'anvil' is no doubt hollow square tube. And the head is not adjustable like the Spencer swing arm design.
Both things are okay and it could be a decent treadle hammer for light chiseling and punching.
Just a little high. I could see it for around $400-$500. Maybe make an offer if you think it will work for you.
Bob -
Very nice!
All thumbs up! -
Thanks Larry. Nice pictures!
Bob -
extra nice! good pics too.
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http://tinyurl.com/2vswd86
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I have heard the story of there being moisture in metal and when it is heated the moisture is driven out. Unfortunately that is not true. That moisture does not come from the metal but condenses from the atmosphere on the surface of the metal. It has to do with the dew point, and the metal being atthe right temperature to condense the water in the air.
true dat -
This video might give you a little insight...
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=pO_tEcdgGtg
There used to be a spring shop near here and I watched them make new springs many times. They would heat the end of the spring and turn the eye in a Hossfeld bender, then put the spring on the floor to cool. No heat treat. The springs were put back together and put back on trucks hauling rock or whatever.
They bought their spring stock 'pre arced'. Then they bent them as needed , cold, in a big press.
I have only made new springs for leg vises. I forge and bend hot. Let cool in air and put them on a vise. No breaking.
Go for it, this isn't magic. -
Wow that's a pretty drastic form of censorship. It Makes me wonder if I want to contribute anymore.
I'm guessing that your earlier post was 'moderated'?
Bob -
I thought there was a command that would automatically take you to the last message you read on a topic. Does that still exist or was I just dreaming. A very handy feature for posts that keep getting refreshed.
Thanks
Forum Legend
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Hi Bill,
I did a google search for 'older jeep ball joint repair' and got lots of sites with pictures. I'm not sure exactly what you need but you may find help there.
Bob -
Very neat looking hammer. If you do decide to paint it (I wouldn't) bring it back to it's original look like the Anyang at this thread rather than making it look like a carnival ride.
http://www.iforgeiro..._0&#entry166681
Bob -
so very very sad.
deepest condolences.....
Bob
I have a dumb question about hammer and rhythm
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted
gee I wonder?
Bob