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Posts posted by Bob S
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1. Don't have to worry about hitting my knuckles on something in the hardy hole like others have said here.
This has come up before (and will again) on this thread and others. I have a hard time imagining what a smiths hand would be doing over the hardy. When I am forging my hand is on the same side of the anvil I am. As I work from one spot to another I move the workpiece. Not my hand. I do remove the hardy after using but not because I'm worried about amputating a finger.
Bob -
I bought a 1911 LG 25 at auction. I'll follow up with pics and more info later but, I have a quick question. It sat in a barn for awhile and so has many muddabber nests throughout including the motor. Can I wash the motor inside? I'm sure the sandy soil they used won't do the motor any good!
I would run it by the local electric motor shop for an opinion. I lean towards buying a new/used motor. Put a 'wanted' ad on craigslist. Look for a totally enclosed motor to avoid the same problem down the road. Good luck with your new hammer.
Bob -
I am quite sure I can do this without buying plans and i really dont want to be stuck to a material bill called for in the plans. It really isnt rocket science and these are pretty simple machines.
If that is true maybe you should be answering instead of asking?
Just saying....
Bob -
"Tradition says horn to the right" What tradition? Who's tradition?---This website has world wide participation! What about all the smiths with european double horned anvils used for centuries? Probably far more of them than London pattern anvils out there. Folks using japanese "block" anvils with no horn? All these folks must have got it wrong over the centuries---guess they didn't know this "tradition".
Just because there are smiths who use anvils with two horns, and that there are smiths who use anvils with no horns, doesn't mean that there couldn't be a tradition among the smiths who use anvils with one horn.
The 'tradition' (if there was one) would be based on the work habits of those *having* horns on their anvils. If you have two horns (or none) the question would be moot.
Bob -
p.s. 1st sentence, 3rd para. Mind the language.
oh please...
Bob -
Happy Birthday!!! Sam.
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I personally don't like the magnets because ............ eventually they magnetize the anvil.
and then it will always want to point north...
Bob -
It looks like a purpose made turnbuckle to me. If I needed one I would post the picture over at http://www.practicalmachinist.com There are guys over there just looking for something to do...just like here. Good chance you could make a trade for something from your forge.
Bob -
$2000 for a ready to run hammer in good shape would be a steal.
take a look at this one....
http://cgi.ebay.com/Little-Giant-Trip-Hammer-25-pounds_W0QQitemZ360336115605QQcategoryZ13869QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3911.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7186335561945904800#ht_1225wt_1141 -
good looking nails. how about a picture of your header and process. step by step?
thanks.
Bob -
Nice looking machine! Hope you make a lot of money with it.
Bob -
I've decided I am going to go the route of pouring the babbitt. The babbitt metal has been ordered and is on its way.
I did up a basic diagram of how the shaft would be set up in the housing before pouring.
I intend to center the shaft by having its other end held in its bushing - that way it will line up perfectly.
My question is, what sort of things should I be worried about doing to make sure it comes out right? Do I need to pre-heat the housing? (I don't have a torch) How do I keep the threads from being filled in? I know I should coat the shaft with soot or graphite so it won't stick; are there any other "prep" things I should know?
Thanks so much,
Luke
I would just screw in a bolt to seal up the hole. You should preheat the shaft so that the babbitt won't chill and will flow all around and give you a good bearing. A propane torch would be enuf to preheat the shaft. I recently poured new bearings in a Little giant 25 and did't coat the shaft with soot or anything and didn't have any problem getting stuck. The babbit doesn't have to be perfect to work fine.
Also you will have to build a dam around where you don't want the babbit to go. Don't use anything water based or it will spatter.
This is a well done babbiting project. Watch it a few times for tips.
http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/011f2.htm -
We need to be able to forge on it, upset hardys etc..Thanks
Got any pictures of upsetting hardys?
I've always found it easier to draw down rather than upset up if you know what I mean. Or welding a collar on if you're not averse to that route. Or starting out with a jackhammer point that has a collar built in.
Bob -
not sure if I totally understand but if you have access try center punching the broken stud and drilling it out using small drills to start and working up to tap drill size for that stud. then try re-tapping the rest out. at any rate do the least destructive method first and work your way up to thermonuclear devices.
bob -
Booooo, I just got of the phone with the Ky Horseshoeing school and they said they were having communication problems with Kohlswa and weren't importing any at the moment :/ I don't really enjoy the thought of sailing to Sweden to bring one back....
want a Kohlswa? all you need is money....
http://compare.ebay....4=263602_309572
btw they call them coleslaw anvils in Iowa. -
Looks like a nice hammer. I especially like your spring guard and also the cast? ram guide.
If I remember right a 50lb LG weighs about 1600 lbs.
Good luck with the move. Go slow. Be safe.
Bob -
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Best wishes on the project Curly George.
That said I guess I don't 'get' the infatuation with wrought iron that many seem to have. I guess they don't make it anymore so it must be good? I've tried a few pieces and it just frayed and split. I often see threads here that someone has 'discovered' a cache of wrought iron and some get wound up about how to save it, how to sell it, etc. Then everyone gets some and.... what?
I know I know you have to work it hothothot. But if you get A36 or 1018 hothothot they will forge pretty easy too.
I have heard some save it for a special project that could only be done with WI but don't recall seeing any pictures. A few years ago someone tried selling a WI comparable called 'pure iron'. Wasn't long before they disappeared. No market?
Sorry to be a wet blanket (well not that sorry) but I'll take A36 or 1018 anytime.
ps. had fun with the COLOR. -
title "A few power hammers" by HWHII.
I understand moving the powerhammer content but think it would be less confusing to wait until this thread has gone 'quiet'.
Just seems less confusing.
jmo
Bob -
Oh.
So the anvil itself isn't crushed?
Bob -
you never seen one of the big hydraulic crushing machines that leaves a neat square block of twisted metal when its done ? an anvil would be like butter in one of those.
seems like they are already as crushed as they are ever going to be.
Bob -
uy replies back; we had 3 of them but we just crushed them.
How do you crush an anvil?
Bob -
I have no desire to be offensive to anyone, and you are more than welcome to believe what you want, but no, prayers don't work, at least in any measurable way. As an example, in a multi-million dollar study funded by a religious organization (the Templeton Foundation), involving more than 1800 patients, they found that prayer has no effect on healing. Actually, that's slightly inaccurate, while people who didn't know they were being prayed for healed at exactly the same rate as people who weren't being prayed for at all, the group who knew they were being prayed for actually did worse than the other two groups.
If prayer makes you feel better, then by all means, but please, please, make sure you use modern, conventional medicine at the same time to do the actual healing part.
Thanks for sticking your neck out. I agree and wouldn't miss this thread.
Bob -
One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread is liability.
You may be opening yourself up to a lawsuit if someone gets hurt with a point you sharpened.
Might be worth talking to a lawyer.
Bob
"New" power hammer
in Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
Posted
My 25LG has some chips on the dovetail slot but nothing like this one. Mine also is a new style and if worse came to worse the it has a replaceable sow block. Your hammer doesn't look like the bottom die has been out for a loooong time. Will it come out? Not being able to change dies easily limits the usefulness of the machine. It doesn't look like it's been used for a long time.
I would have passed on this hammer.
Bob