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Posts posted by Bob S
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Talk about fortuitous coincidence. Yesterday I was reading the sections on various locks in Streeter's Professional Smithing, and finding some of it a little hard to follow. I ended up spending a couple hours looking for (and at) old lock mechanisms online. Thanks for posting this!
you're welcome. More pretty good stuff on locks here...
http://www.anvilfire...s/top_index.htm -
It is quite different from modern locks.
brad
called a 'lever lock'.
http://en.wikipedia....er_tumbler_lock -
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I have just aquired a Canadian Giant No. 25 trip hammer, which is very similar to the 25 lb Little Giant.
I need to replace the belting inside the clutch. It presently has two layers of 2-inch wide by 1/8 inch thick
belting, and appears to be original.
Are there different types of transmission belt, or will any old farm machinery belt work?
I remember seeing that stuff at school a few times. I wonder if the principal still has a piece in his office...
there is a good picture sequence here of replacing (pouring)
new babbit bearings and also putting on new clutch material.
No doubt you could get the right stuff from Sid at Little Giant.
http://www.anvilmag....smith/011f2.htm -
It was fairly common to smiths to test chisels on the sides and the feet. That is probably why you see so many chisel marks on the side.
I have heard this for years and I'm not disputing it now but I never have been able to understand
what kind of 'test' it is to put a gouge in the side of a relatively 'soft' anvil. Anvils must have cost
just as much in relative dollars then as they do now and I sure wouldn't intentionally gouge my anvil.
Didn't they have a bit of scrap around to 'test' their chisel?
Doesn't make sense to me. -
I know $4 dollars is not really expensive but i have very little cash to spend on my new hobby an need to get all i can for what i got. so i like to ask you guys what you think so im wasting the cash i can spend on it. but im going to go get in tomorrow an hopefully it will come in handy for me
If things are so tight that $4 is a leap for you I would advise passing on this die. It will most likely be a paperweight at best. Best of luck. -
found a threading die at a shop today and the guy wants $4 for it. i know that's not much but i don't no if it's worth it... it seamed like it was in ok shape as far as i know but that doesn't say much about things like that. An the other thing is should it have different sizes attachments for the middle. all it had was a 5/8th. would you guys get it?
it's unlikely that the die is any good, even if you did need it. But if the die is in a handle and the handle will hold common diameter dies... like 1-1/2", the handle may be worth the $4 so that when you buy dies (as needed) you will already own a handle.
http://www.mcmaster....ng-dies/=9dnx1e -
....but go ahead and use them. Keep your workpiece hot hot hot and they will hold up for a while. Make the next set out of something tougher. No problem.
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Well Brian I tried it and this is what I got. The wing is not easy mine kinda sucks.
doesn't suck that much.
doesn't suck at all.
nice. -
Thanks for all the replies and the offer to send me some damming compound. Much appreciated.
I think I'll go ahead and use plumbers putty.
I am repouring the top part of the main bearings on a LG 25. I'll try to take a few pics.
Thanks again.
Bob -
I have a couple of bearings to pour. I have the babbit but need something to dam up the small cracks on the ends. I know they (Sid) sell a special damming compound but I don't want to buy a 26$ can for such a small job.
What else (that I might have) would work? So far I am thinking plumbers putty.
Thanks.
Bob -
well said.
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Mike,
I confess, I stole that ball drilling jig from your modern masters segment. Still use it today. It's a good one.
DB
Is this 'modern masters segment' available?
Bob
Great pictures BTW. Very nice. -
Beautiful work. Very nice clean shop.
Thumbs way up. -
Lots of talk about cut off hardies here and all over this (and other) sites.
I made a couple of hardies years ago. One with a straight side the other without. I made another when I got another anvil.
Question is, what are you guys cutting off?
I go for long periods without using a cutoff hardy. I have a saw. If you cut off a bar with a hardy you end up with an end that eventually needs to be cleaned up... maybe two ends to clean up.
If I want a slit I do it with a top tool on the anvil or treadle hammer.
So unless you are making nails, I'm curious.... what you cutting off with all those hardies?
Bob -
I have to upgrade to a 4lb hammer and smack the crap out of them.
Robert,
I'm guessing that you're doing this (blacksmithing), more or less for 'fun'. If so, what's your hurry? If it takes a little more of less *forging* (not "smacking the crap out of it"),whats the hurry? The time spent forging, actually forging, is what it's all about.
Enjoy it.
Bob
this is a small cutoff hardy I made from a 'jackhammer point' a few years ago. The shaft is 1" square.
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don't waste your time. It's junk.
Bob -
I have been trying to think if there are scrap tools on the market that i could reforge........ I havent been able to find anything with the kind of mass I need to make hardy tools or even a decent split chisel.
If people have suggestions on what I could look for to get some good tool steel without paying a fortune, I am all ears.
You can get used up moil points (jackhammer points) just about anywhere. Check out your local tool rental store if they rent jackhammers or talk to road/cement contractors in your area.
Most moil points are made of 1045 or similar and are great steel to make hardy tools or just about any blacksmith tool.
Bob -
I can see why it would be hard to part with. Neat looking hammer.
Bob
ps. Thanks Wesley for re-sizing the pictures. -
I have used chainsaw bar oil but would NEVER USE IT AGAIN. I am in the process of cleaning 20 years worth of congealed bar oil from my 25 lb LG. It got to the point as Clinton says above that it "got all gummed up and just ran sluggish".
When I get it put back together I will use a light motor oil (or maybe ATF as Clifton said) and wipe the hammer down every week.
The mix of congealed bar oil and scale has to be scraped off. It will not yield to ordinary solvents.
Bob
ps. Whatever you use I think (looking back on it) that wiping the machine down on a regular basis is key. -
Very true. Thanks. Does anyone who uses this site know a blacksmith in the Eau Claire Wisconsin area who would be willing to help with this? Either with advice or by demonstrating?
try these guys. It's a pretty active group in the twin cities area. They may know if anyone is close to Eau Claire.
http://www.metalsmith.org/ -
I have a 14.5" Southbend lathe with the motor under the head stock. I have not been able to find any info on this topic.
Thanks
Tim
Ask these guys.
http://www.practical...th-bend-lathes/ -
just a WAG but it looks like it could be an Armitage Mousehole.
It also looks a little used. I would keep looking myself but that's just my opinion.
Bob -
Greetings all, I'm working on forge welding, but am definitely still on the uphill side of the learning curve. My best result thus far has been working with 3/8 round stock,
Try a few welds using larger stock...say 3/4". Larger stock will stay at a welding heat longer and give you more time to sort out what is happening.
Bob
A simple expanation
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted
Best explanation I've ever heard.