ptree

Most chemical wholesale outfits and some oils jobbers that supply industry may be able to supply John. I think there are some comercial coolants for induction heaters as well, I will check tomorrow if I get a chance. Those you may be able to get in smaller size as well.

I am fond of my wood burning furnace just now, highs in the 20'sF and low tonight 0F I also like a radio, fans and good light.

Sorry the pictures did not attach the first time. There are more photos at Farwest forge in my gallery under Jeff Reinhardt. I have a drop down shelf on the side and the tool box on the front opposite the forge is made from a large electrical enclosure.

In the post above the regular Ethylene Glycol I reffered to should have been Regular Ethylene Glycol anti-freeze as used in cars.

The "Black Goo of Death" is found after regular ethylene Glycol is used in induction heaters. Something in the additive package undergoes some sort of bad change and the stuff coats out on everything copper. In the big industrial machines, the power cables are braided copper run inside cooling water hoses, and the capaciters are usually water cooled as well. The goo blocks coolant flow and cables and Capacitors rapidly fail. Seen it happen twice, at 2 different forge shops were the wrong product was ordered or supplied. I learned to specify, and inspect before use that "Technical Grade Ethylene Glycol" was used. To my knowledge we had to replace the cap's and cables as there was no fix. By the way hard water is ALWAYS bad in induction systems. The calcium Carbonate is a very strange compound having properties very different than intutive. Unlike the sugar you put into your coffee calcium carbonate's solubility decreases as the water temp increases. It also does not precipatate, but rather plates out on the hot surface. This leads to a coating on the inside of the tube in the coil that insulates the copper from the coolant, leading to early failure. Since the cooling system on a home sized unit should not be over a couple of gallons, distilled water would be a reasonable investment. We used big dionized water generators to make out coolant water as we had units holding several hundred gallons. We also had the D.I. units for use in making up machine coolant anyway, so cheaper then distilled.

Here is my shop trailer I take to demo's. Everything fits inside. No cover, but everything stays dry and it is easily moved. Now i am a scrounger, can weld and traded this and that. My total cost for the initial build was $42 in 2005. I have since added better springs and am now at about $150

Here is my shop trailer I take to demo's. Everything fits inside. No cover, but everything stays dry and it is easily moved. Now i am a scrounger, can weld and traded this and that. My total cost for the initial build was $42 in 2005. I have since added better springs and am now at about $150. That is an old Datsun pickup bed. Cut cab off, extended frame to hold tool box, forge and post drill on far side.

May I make a few suggestions? 1. For a cooler, there are ready made recirculating coolers used on many welders that are nicely sized. They work well for small induction systems. The are totally self contained having water to air exchangers, pump and fan and run on 110V 2. In many shops cooling water will be a freeze hazard if not a heated shop. A 50:50 mix of PURE ethylene glycol and distilled water in a recirculating cooler will give very good performance and will be very freeze resistant. DO NOT use automotive antifreeze, the additives make a "Black goo of death" in induction systems. 3. In the forge and machine shops I have worked in furnace filter media is required over the intakes for the cooling fans, the dust shortens life badly otherwise.

If no other suitable hunk of steel comes along, consider 1" thick by 6" wide bar. Even 1" x 4". Cut to lenght needed for all vertical orientation and weld, This laminated style, with the joints vertical works well and is as close to a solid as one can get. You can also take 3" x3" as I did and weld them vertically. Later when some nice 1" think plate lenghts about 12" wide became available I welded those to the original 3" by 6". I am running a 70# ram. I am at about 530 in the anvil without the base and the hammer is very nice. And when the right scrap becomes available I intend to add more as I would like to have that anvil at 700 to 800#

Wecome to the site. I am in very Southern Indiana. The KBA is trying to re-organize, may have by now. The IBA is very active and has a very nice conference in Tipton Indiana in early June every year. There are also Sattalitte groups that meet all over Indiana, Our group is the Southern Indiana Meteroite Mashers and meets in different shops of our members the last Saturday of the Month. This months meeting on Jan 26th will be at Steve King's shop in Paoli In. The featured demonstration will be armour.

Guten Abend from Southern Indiana. I spent 28 months in Hanau au Main in the 70's and visited Bavaria several times. I apprentised under a Goldsmeider in Hanau doring my off hours and he tried valiently to teach me German. I spoke German and he English in our conversations to allow us both to practice. He often told me my german sounded more like Bariesch:)

I am that hatted man in the video. The blank was pre-sawn, I keep a coffee can full for demos on the trailer. I use a bending fork to adhust the arms to straight, but it is all free hand hammering other than that. The rather nice guy asked for a cross for his Mother and then asked if he could video to show her how it was made. A few days later I got an e-mail with the video and he asked if OK to put on YouTube. It was a cold and somewhat dreary day, hence both the jacket and the apron. Here are some video's of the BFH's making a somewhat bigger version. Blacksmiths forging a open cross pt1 Blacksmiths forging an open cross pt2 Blacksmiths forging an open cross pt3 Blacksmiths forging an open cross pt4 Blacksmiths forging an open cross pt5

I have a little Demo anvil that spent about 40 years laying in the ashes and ruble of a burnt down farm blacksmith shop and the face looked just like the photos. Looked like deep rust pits. I used a flap wheel in a 4" grinder and gently polished the surface. The pits are still there but over the years have polished out from use somewhat. They in no way affect the work. At 70 #s this is my demo anvil and gets little use compared to my shop anvil, but still has smoothed from use. By the way, the fire seems to have not affected the hardness of this "Vanadium Steel" brand anvil. Great rebound and it will make you bleed from your ears due to it's almost bellergent ring! I wear hearing protection and as a demo anvil that ring really calls in the folks from afar at a demo:)

Ken Scharabok of Po Boy tools passed away from a massive heart attack on Dec 29th. Rest In Peace my friend.

Man you never ask that question, its like a lady asking "do these pants make me look fat?" :) I use triple wall 8" id, on a side draft and don't have issues, draws well. BUT that is with triple wall all fuel stack that keeps those gasses hot till the exit. I use a small 7" stack on my demo trailer, and it is a intergral side draft, and about 8' tall. Sucks up the smoke and it exits above head height so me and the viewers don't have to eat smoke:)

Jerry, Having lost a son, I can tell you to just take it a little at a time. I know the weight on your heart is beyond bearable, but we somehow do. I found that taking care of my remaining family, giving them free reign to grieve while I kept everything still functioning, getting food on the table, running errors etc gave me a task that actually helped a little. Still does a year later. God Bless

Hello from Southern Indiana.

Virtually everything on this forum was a trade secret at one time

You are welcome. Always glad to help. There is someone on this site that has the real skinny on any subject asked, And all of us giving of our experience is what makes the site useful and a valuable resource. If I needed electrical advice on how to wire a shop, Steve as an electrician would be my goto for advice as an example. Happy New Year to all.

The powered air purefying respirators are very good, reducing the load on the respiratory system to pull the air through the filters and since the inside to the mask is positive pressure in relation to atmosphere the protective realized is better than a standard mask. Drawbacks: Cost In the US $1000+ new Weight, the barttery pack is a little heavy. More effort to don, so not as quick for a quick little job, and so tempting to skip for a quick job. My goal, OSHA driven is to always first engineer out the hazard, IE exhaust the fume, PPE second.

As an industrial safety guy I can offer the following; A. Respirators are the last choice for defense against weld fume. Remove the fume is the better choice. Most folks don't wear a respirator correctly, some have facial hair, and some folks don't have the healthy respiratory system to allow safe wear of a filtering respirator with overtaxing them. B. That said, there are cases where a respirator is the only choice, like in confined spaces. There are several designs of respirator, like Half face full faced supplied air ETC. All need to be properly sized and fit tested to actually provide the protection. c. The correct filter type is rated for Weld fume, NIOSH rated if in the US. I use a P-100, HEPA filter as that is the highest rated filter particulate which weld fume is. It is also rated for asbestos and radionuclie and is permissible for use around oil mist. D. There are NO paper masks, even those marked with a NIOSH stamp and 2 straps that are safe as a weld mask. They are a simple Nusiance dust mask, and should never ever be depended on to protect from any real threat in the air.

And yes Thomas abusively probably fits. I think I remember giving you one a couple of years ago, Did I?

He removes the clamp nut on the abrasive chop saw, removes the abrasive blade, installs the carbide tipped blade, installs the nut and then cuts. He may have a bigger saw then a 14", and he may have a belt drive and maybe slowed the rpm, but he gets a dozen each year at Quad State. That is however my entire knowledge of what he does. I did warn him misuse. Several of my blade smith friends have made blades from them, and I sell a number at Quadstate for making into blade stock

My experience with jewlelers saws is that when they break they give a little ping and that is it. Never had one send shards, but then I was trained in Germany, using high grade German blades and still use those now, 30 years later. I also tend to use the very fine blades only and they are very very thin.

Aww but the saw makers are still in the ART side of things. The thin kerf about 100 tooth carbides we use at the plant are very very critical on edge geometry and so forth. Getting a blade to cut plastic over 430 stainlees that is very thin and not make a burr or melt and smear the plastic is indeed high art. Getting the backing body of the blade to not vibrate is also required and the laser cuts are ART as well. I do not know what the alloy is but it makes a nice fine grained break taking fairly high force when quenched in veggie oil. I have aquired many once scrapped and have one guy who uses them in a 14" abrasive chop saw on A-36!