dkaschner

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About dkaschner

  • Rank
    Junior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eagan, MN
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, woodworking, welding, computers.

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  • Location
    Eagan, MN
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, woodworking, leatherworking
  • Occupation
    Computer programmer

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  1. I don't know... if a blade gets too hot it will "lose it's temper"? Just a thought.
  2. Very often they have 'intro to blacksmithing' classes. The Guild of Metalsmiths here in Minnesota has a great education program. We welcome anyone that has a desire to learn. In fact the 'intro' class (or equivalent) is a requirement for more advanced classes. I would think there are many local groups across the country similar to The Guild. Good luck and enjoy the journey!
  3. Michael, not sure what price range you are looking in, but I live in Eagan, MN and I have a 'new' #260 double horn classic from Old World Anvils that I have been trying to get the time to post here and on a few more boards and the Guild of Metalsmiths. I say 'new' because I have had it for years and never used it. Been using a 120 Nimba I picked up right after getting this one. The Nimba works well in my smaller smithy and I kept telling myself, "soon I will have the smithy finished and I can move in the big anvil"... smithy's never get 'finished'... Anyway, PM me and we can talk if you are interested. Or you can just stop by, always love to talk with a fellow smith... Dan
  4. Michael, have you looked into joining The Guild of Metalsmiths? Lots of blacksmiths, education and events. Dan
  5. Might check out Don Foggs forum (Bladesmith's Forum?). Christopher Price and a few of his friends are doing this and looking for mentors and/or tools, materials and supplies. It is a wonderfully worthy cause and, as specualted here, seems to be extremely well recieved by the vets.
  6. I have to agree... James has always been an example of way above and beyond when I dealt with him. Just an all-around nice guy too. Rare these days but there are still a few people like James around. Well done James!
  7. Hi Gene. Welcome to another Guild member.
  8. As I understand it (after all none of us were actually there) with a sword the size of a Claymore you do not typically 'draw' the sword in the sense you are thinking. It is not a 'quick I have to draw thsi sword' action. You would generally take the sword and scabbard off as a whole, draw the sword and very possibly toss the scabbard aside or place it back over your shoulder as you see fit. The point being a Claymore is not a 'fencing' sword. It is drawn before going into battle and not typically sheathed / unsheathed during the battle. Claymore were more for incapacitating the horse that is charging you than a hand-to-hand weapon for fighting another foot soldier. After unseating the charging warrior, you would be at a severe disadvantage if a sword fight ensued and all you had was a Claymore. They are big weapons and not near as fast as other hand weapons.
  9. Sorry it has taken so long for me to respond. It is very difficult for me. This hits so close to home. I wish you and your family peace in your life-long journey in learning to live without you son. Dan Kaschner
  10. I still have to make the base, fill it with cement and let the cement cure before I can start to put it into service. Will take at least a month for the cement to cure (at least as far as I have been told), so it may be a while until i get it in service. I will try and remember to post something when the Anayng is operational so that those of you that are interested can stop by and check it out... Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread. 'And now we return to your regularly scheduled programming...' Dan
  11. Should be a number of people locally, that own a tire hammer. I am not one of them, but, the Guild of Metalsmiths had a tire hammer build last year (if my memory serves me right) and they built at least 10 hammers. Most, if not all, were taken home by local smiths. I live in Eagan and own an Anyang 33 lb. hammer that I am currently in the process of build a stand for and putting it in service (after sitting for 4 or 5 years :-( )... or I would invite you over to try it out. Anyway, good luck. Contact the Guild and you should have no problem finding someone with a tire hammer.
  12. The primary issues when using any gas in a forge is supplying enough BTUs to the forge. This is very doable with natural gas if you are aware of adjust for two variables. 1. Typically natural gas is supplied at a lower pressure to a residence than you are used to using with propane. 2. Natuaral gas has a lower thermal content than propane, i.e., less BTUs per unit volume. Adjustments: 1. Use a bigger line. You may have to use a 1/2" or larger line instead of the 1/4" line used with propane. I weld with my natural gas forge at less than 2 psi (my house is supplied with 2 psi service as opposed to 11" wc). 2. If you are not using a blown forge, I would suggest swtiching to it. Venturi forges use the pressure as an aid in the mixing chamber. You don't have that luxury at 11" wc (less than 1 psi), so the blower is used to provide the pressure for mixing the air and fuel. It is definately doable, although it may require some retooling. Dan Kaschner
  13. I had the company that did the initial wiring come in and install the CO detector, flamable gas detector and heat detector. They have a 'low-voltage' side to their business that installs a lot of safety equipment for businesses around here. They were great. The guys remembered me, as they don't do a lot of work for blacksmithing / bladesmithing shops. I had an alarm horn and light set up right out side of our back door to the garage so that if anyhting went wrong in the smithy it would be 'intuitively obvious' to anyone in the house. I decided that a smoke detector would not work well. Heat treating causes a ton of smoke and would always be setting off the alarms. Theflamable gas detector is great. Heck I can't even spray paint in the smithy without proper ventilation without the alarm going off. Sorry for the long post. Bottom line is that the detectors are not from Home Depot, i.e., I didn't install the safety equipment myself. If you are still interested, I can pull out the manuals and get more information. Dan
  14. It is actually a pretty good setup. I have a similar setup at home, a 125 amp subpanel sitting next to the main panel in my smithy (walled off the 3rd stall in the garage). The smithy lights, safety alarms (CO, fire and flamable gas detectors) and fan are run off of the main panel. This was done to allow me to hook up all of my equipment to circuits from the subpanel. As a result I can lock-out all of my equipment by flipping the subpanel breaker and locking the subpanel, while still maintaining power for lights, detectors and safety equipment. I have never tripped the 125 amp breaker. I would guess you shuold be fine with 125 amps. Dan Kaschner