lary
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Everything posted by lary
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Got one of those where I work. Probably purchased back in the 90's has Dayton written on it but the specs tag has made in Taiwan. 64 1/2 inch blade, Stared at that red one at Harbor Freight and it looks nearly identical. I replaced at least one of those guide rollers and If you squint hard enough with a magnifying glass you might be able to get a part number, and with that info maybe somebody at Napa can help you. It might be due for a new blade. Ounce put back together you'll probably want to cut a piece of pipe or box tubing and check squareness. When cutting, slowly lower the blade on the work piece. And DO NOT push down on the blade when it's cutting you will pop the blade off the drive wheel, tear teeth off of it or break it in half. Sorry for repeating some of the good advise already given.
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That's great! Congratulations.
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Another work of art. Thanks for posting.
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Nice! Those legs do look complicated. Getting them to match must have taken some time.
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And I did lay blocks of ice on the face before welding to protect the temper. Hardness and rebound are still good.
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If portability were important to me, a 70 lbs anvil would be the way to go. I have no experience with Cliff Carroll anvils, but I do have a 70 lbs aso and there is an improvement in my overall forging experience with the 132 anvil. I don't see myself upgrading anytime soon. If I knew for sure that I was going to be making a living off of blacksmithing some day then dropping $1400.00 on a Holland anvil may have been justified. As far as quality well.. it probably is a gamble. I knew I would have to modify the anvil before I placed the order, at least to make it more usable for me.
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For the price, the 132lbs 60kg Acciaio isn't a bad option. I received one 2 months ago and have been using it about 4 times a week. It has a fairly hard face and good rebound. Definitely better than a piece of cast iron. But as mentioned by Irondragon and Mr. Powers you might want to try an improvised anvil first. I'm glad I did. Being a wood worker your hammer control is probably better than most but only one way to find out.
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Lockdown Tirehammer Build
lary replied to Everything Mac's topic in Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
Nice job. It's going to save your elbow when drawing out. -
I'll give that a try.
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Thanks guys for the comments. I made a jig to help get the scrolls to be more consistent. But that leads to the tips getting kinked. So I'll modify the jig and and probably start the scroll by hand (first inch or two on the tip).
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Question on hardware for tightening a steel hoop.
lary replied to Apple Duck's topic in Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
Not 3/8 thick but with maybe 3/16 or 1/4 thick flat bar. I have welded one end to a truck rim then rolled it across the floor cold. -
What did you do in the shop today?
lary replied to Mark Ling's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Chad Everything about it looks great. -
Glad he's sill at it...
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I'm gonna do it! I'll post a pic in a couple of months. When you talk about your son I keep thinking of Flintstones Bamm-Bamm. You might be wright. Soon, you'll get reduced in rank to striker.
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Daswulf, Good point I think my bade is a little smaller than Nodebt's. Frosty, The skull was my first attempt with a plasma cutter. I stuck a round magnet on the blade to hang it. A circle of metal filings will sometimes form on its forehead.
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My grandfather probably brought this saw blade home from the mill he worked at in the early 1950's. I hung it from a nail a couple years ago.
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I wanted some 1/2 inch rivets for a project and didn't have any, so I rounded the heads of some bolts, You don't give yourself enough credit Frazer, the tongs are awesome. Making a garden rake....
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Thanks every one for the congrats. I'm honored. Brady wasted no time getting it in the mail. Received the tongs and a generous amount of gifts an hour ago. It's so cool to put my hands on somebody else's work. The tongs are great, I'll be trying them tomorrow.