Jobtiel1

I will keep him in my thoughts, Get well Thomas. Thanks for updating us Billy. ~Jobtiel

I also made mine with leaf spring. I didn't heat treat it and it works perfectly fine. ~Jobtiel

More information would be useful indeed, if all of the sizes are smaller in length, I think of offcuts, maybe to be reused and welded together for new stock whenever business was slow. The fact that some of them appear welded together would support that in my eyes. That would mean that they would be stored on a central heap, and not scattered over the entire site. Curious what others think. ~Jobtiel

Thanks for the tip! I thought of that as well, but don't have the right size stock on hand. I was thinking of using copper tubing for that, I will have to find some. For now it's not much of a problem. ~Jobtiel

Those are nice to know, I often take too much material and cut of the excess, or only cut the bar when forging is mostly done. This is not always the best way, thanks! I'm back in a woodworking mood lately, so I want to make a small cabinet for my room with a bit of space for books above it, so kind of a small bookcase with a door below it. It's quite ambitious for my skill level but I will probably start on it soon. I did need a vise though, I was getting tired of the viseless workholding I've been using, so I made one using a screw I found at the thriftshop! It includes a bench dog hole, guide rails, and below the work bench a simple alignment thingy. It works quite well, the guide bars can freely move in and out of the last guide hole. if you extend it too far out you can run into problems with the guide bars exiting the last guide hole. The bars are 12mm round and the guide holes are drilled 12.5 mm round. I won't need the vise to extend out a lot, since all the big stock can be worked with the bench dogs, holdfasts, or the planing stop I already have. Excited to use it! ~Jobtiel

We do this too, maybe not at the exact same date. We went back an hour last week Saturday night. Summer time and winter time we call it. ~Jobtiel

Maybe it was used to supply air for multiple forges at once, in a factory setting it might've been more efficient to power one or two of these blowers instead of 10-20 smaller ones. ~Jobtiel

Do you mean an extra piece of wood on the top of the side panels to resist the sideways forces? The front and back panels are rabbeted for this same purpose. for strength of the lid I'm only worried about the middle panel in the lid popping out when someone sits on it, the rest is supported by the chest itself. The idea for some extra grip point for two man carrying is quite good. Seeing it's oak even empty it can be difficult to carry alone. should've made the thing from pine... ~Jobtiel

I have mine in grease for about two years now, never really thought about it attracting dirt, scale, and other abrasives. It's rinsing time! I'm currently doing shop wide maintenance i.e. grinding mushrooming off, dressing hammers, sharpening and oiling woodworking tools, and stuff like that. Perfect time to disassemble the vise and remove all the grease. Any tips for removing grease from a vise? ~Jobtiel

That's definitely a good idea, I'd have to try it. The lid construction would not be perfectly suited for sitting, but it has supports on the inside so I think it will be fine. ~Jobtiel

Yes, I still have to decide on whether I will use forged legs or wooden legs. And how to fit them in the chest design. Camping season is largely over anyway so I still have some time to decide! ~Jobtiel

Great! Time to get thinking on what I'm making. I'll need to look for some inspiration first. ~Jobtiel

I used an f clamp, don't have any C clamps.

This was with leaf springs. I don't have much experience with disassemlilng them but that one and a second time. Even if it should be fine, better safe than sorry and it's zero hassle to put on a clamp. ~Jobtiel

Well, I tried putting in new screws. I must say I'm surprised and it indeed looks so much better! Thanks for the tip! I have retired the chest as tool chest right now, As I was gifted an antique that is a bit larger and is more suited for woodworking tools, It actually has space for chisels. I will use it now to take stuff camping and also as a sort of travelling tool chest when going to demo's and stuff. ~Jobtiel

I noticed a good increase of hammering comfort after my previous (store) handle came loose and I made a thinner and longer one with a thinned out spring near the top. I sanded to 120 grit and boiled linseed finish and it's perfect for me. I really noticed the decrease in shock transmitted due to the thinned part of the handle. I can't find a picture of the handle. I can make one tomorrow if needed. ~Jobtiel

I'm sorry for not submitting one too. I was working on one but I messed it up and needed to make a punch. Busy schedule and other stuff to do let me to being too late. Next time I'll make sure to join! Maybe we can make this a 4 times a year thing. ~Jobtiel

The first time I disassembled one I put clamps on by advice from here, when cutting the bolt of it still went flying through the room, luckily the spring assembly didn't violently release their load. I'm really glad I read that you should put on clamps as I'm unsure of what would've happened if I hadn't. Even if the springs are not attached to the vehicles there can still be a stress on them. ~Jobtiel

This weekend I was out camping with the instructors for a scouts camp they're giving this winter. It's all about woodcutting. I want to join the team so I was invited to join them this weekend. I brought the axe I forged earlier this week and it worked a charm! It was the first time I chopped down a tree with one of my own axes so that was pretty cool. With a file as the bit the axe stayed sharp over the weekend as well, practically no damage to the edge! I have completely forgotten about the letter opener challenge actually... ~Jobtiel

Wait, are the jaws and reins on the same side of the boss on these tongs? Shouldn't they be opposite to each other? ~Jobtiel

Practicing axes again, i need to focus on the eye more and make a proper sized drift to make the eye less wonky, als the bit should go a bit further in the body before welding it. Wrapped eye with a piece of mild steel between the Earl to boost the weight, an old file for the bit. Total weight is around 900 grams. ~Jobtiel

You don't need a flat anvil face to have a usable anvil. Have you encountered a problem where you thought "If my anvil were flat this would not be an issue"? And if so, what? you might think you need a flat face but for most operations, nearly all actually, this is not needed. there are other options as well where you would not need to mess with the anvil and potentially ruin it and still do everything you need to do. ~Jobtiel

Why do you need a flat anvil face? is there any specific thing you want to forge that needs the flat face? what problems have you encountered during forging because the face was not flat? ~Jobtiel

Nice! Especially the stones. The plane irons don't look like they have a lot of life left, any use for them? ~Jobtiel

I agree with everyone Billy, congrats on getting your stuff back! ~Jobtiel