Jura T

That works well if you are working on more than one pair of tongs or if you have a speedy induction heater . When working with one pair and coal fire I rather have two pieces so that I can work the other part while the other is in fire and vice versa.

Terrible news. My best wishes to both Jerry and Deb.

Trattoclip, I've got some info on Beche hammers (in German). If you are interested send me a PM with your email address.

That sucks, I hope you get your hammer soon.

Brian, very nice info once again. A question on the collars; do you scarf the ends. If you do, do you do it with the decorated collars as well? Just out of curiosity, is the outer ring on the trivet forge welded?

Thanks for the pics. One question; do harden the whole head or just the faces?

Looks really nice. I like the idea of fine adjustment.

My wife and the kids went to see her mother, so this week I've been getting a bit of extra shop time. I thought it was time to make my first power hammer tools. So I made a couple of hacks, a flatter and a tenon tool (see the picture with my first two power hammer made tenons ). The first two holes (opposite to the spring side) are for butchering the rest are for rounding. I did them by drilling and grinding. I really don't like grinding due to the noise and dust it produces, furthermore, spring steel is quite slow to drill. So how do you others do the tenon tools? I guess the rounding holes should be easy to forge but how about the cone/oval shaped buthering holes?

I've done headers using round piece of spring steel. First I round the face somewhat and put a handle on it. Then I drift a rectangular drift from the back side. The tip of the drift should be slightly smaller than the size of the hole you want. This works for a header for large nails. If you want to do a header for small nails, then it is best to use first a large drift and drift it almost through (leave something like 5mm of material) and then use a small drift to go through. If you try to go all the way with a small drift, it will get glowing hot in no time. I've done the holes both with drilling pilot holes and without them. Probably don't bother with drilling anymore.

It is a lot bigger than what it looked like in the auction picture. It can cat up to 20mm (4/5") square/round. Although, at that size it is already a bit of a struggle. The blades are quite worn out, so I need the sharpen them at some point.

I bought a shear from a web auction. When I drove to get it I found out that the seller had a drill press for sell as well. I didn't have the heart to separate the two machines so the drill followed me home as well. I had been looking for a drill press for a while already. The first thing I did with the drill press was to drill open the pritchel hole in my anvil. The previous owner of the anvil had closed it by welding. :mad:

Those are nice looking. A friend of mine asked me to do similar ones to him after we used a pair to drag a new anvil stump at another friend's place. I tested the the ones over there and there definitely were tool steel (according the sparks). So now I've been wondering whether I should use simple tool steel or spring steel...

I just made the test with my russian hammer (50 kg, 5.5 kw motor). I don't have any 1" square, so I took some 20mm square and upset it. It was the first to me to upset anything with a power hammer, so it was actually nice to try that as well. I only did test with 5 blows with the result of .453" The bar moved a bit (~0.2") before the last two hits so let's say the result is 0.460". Sam, are we getting results for 33 lb Anyang any time soon?:)

I found this link from another forum. Clay Spencer has written a PDF on power hammer tooling. Excellent info for a novice like me. Page Title I downloaded both the low and high res versions. I don't see any practical differences between them.

I've never used neither myself, but I've read that both pine tar and resin (also spruce resin) have been used for wounds (at least here in Finland). They are both supposedly antibacterial.

That looks really good! Have you already fed hot metal to it? I have never used a mechanical hammer (only two different air hammers). Can you easily forge both very small and large stock with same settings? I'm not quite sure if that was a fair trade.:)

Congrats on the new hammer!

I've got a small bottle opener holding my shop key. However, after seeing Paul's anvil, I just have to try to copy it at some point. :)

That was great find. I hope you get it running soon. Do you already know what you need to do with it (except getting a motor)?

Thanks. I will get the ones you guys suggested (and a couple more ). The problem isn't so much the money but limited time. There are twenty or so DVDs with power hammer work. Watching something 100 hours would take me years... I ordered 12 DVDs about year and a half ago, still haven't watched all of them.

Good luck!

Great! Very cool finish on it.

Now that my PH is up and running, it is time to learn how to use it. I checked the UMBA video library page and there seems to be quite a few DVDs on power hammers. Can any of you recommend any of the DVDs? I've got flat dies, so I'm mainly interested in learning how to use them and making tooling for them.

Morjens napakettu, Nice to have another Finn on the forum. I hadn't heard about the tar+sand method before. I don't know what is really traditional pattern for hammers here in Finland, but something similar to Swedish pattern is something I've seen on old hammers.

Brian, a couple of questions if you don't mind. When punching thin stock, what is the colour of the plug when you flip the piece over and start removing it from the other side? On the horse head bottle opener, do you use a drift the get the ring to final size and how do you make the cross section round? Are you using some kind of a bottom tool as the inside of the ring looks so clean?