Jura T

Yep, at least according these: Welding Forum > Pre-nuclear steel? and why raise Nazi u boats?

Today I took everything apart in the oiler system. It turns out that the small part that I thought to be a simple fitting to connect the outlet tube to the hammer is a check valve at the same time. It was stuck. I freed the ball and thought that would solve the problem. It didn't; still no oil flow. What puzzled me was the direction of the valve. It was set so that it would open when the high pressure side is on the side of the oil tank. After reading the STC-88 Air Hammer pages I changed the direction by changing the ball to the other end of the valve. Finally there is oil flow! No visible drops but clear flow of oil on the inside walls of the sight glass. Still need to fine tune it.

Thanks for the advices. I cleaned the oil reservoir and checked the tubes etc before running the hammer. When running it, just as ptree suggested, I held a piece of white paper behind the glass. I was expecting to see drops of oil through the sight glass. It was kind of hard to see but sometimes there was some oil on the inside surface of the glass and sometimes not. So if it is very fine mist that goes through the sight glass then the oil might actually be moving. Just above the sight glass there seems to be a small leak (I see very small oily bubbles). I'll change the seal today. Changing the copper tubes to plastic ones is on my TODO list. I just need to find right fittings. There is no check valve in the system, so adding one might wise as well. The hammer head moves nicely so I wouldn't expect the piston seals to be worn out...?

My Beast from the East (see http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f57/russian-hammer-5146/) is now sitting in my new shop. Finally, last Wednesday, my electrician finished the wiring in the shop and I was able to try the hammer. It runs quite nicely. The problem is that there seems to be some sort of a problem with the oiler. You can see the system in its simplicity in the picture below. Before running the hammer I filled the the small clear tube just after a needle valve with oil. The oil vanished after a short while but there seems to be no oil coming from the reservoir. I actually filled the tube several times and there seems be a lot oil leaking from the piston, so the oil seems to go where it is supposed to go... Now the questions is that what should I do to get the oil circulating. It seems that the oiler system has been the same for at least a fairly long time. So I guess it should work as it is. I used SAE 30 oil. Could it be that it is too low in viscosity? Should I try thicker oil, and if so, then how thick should I go? Couple a days ago I spoke to blacksmith using a Beche hammer and he told that he is using 80W-90 oil.

I had never thought of using a collar in that purpose. A great set of pictures!

You are right. I should have written that the pearlite+ferrite phase changes to austenite+ferrite phase. It really seems that the pearlite part changes directly to austenite.

Pretty tough question. I guess it comes down to the electronic structure of the iron-carbon system, but I guess we don't want to go to that level of detail. One reason for that could be that the temperature at which pure ferrite changes to austenite is higher than that of iron-carbon alloy. The closer to the pure ferrite your system is (i.e. low C concentration) the more there will be ferrite in the system and thus the transition point to pure austenite phase will occur at higher temperatures than in the case of systems with higher C concentration. Pearlite will change directly to austenite only at eutectoid composition (0.76 wt% C). At lower C concentrations pearlite will first change to ferrite+austenite phase before going completely to austenite phase. This ferrite+austenite phase lies between A1 and A3 lines.

Most of the smith made sundials I've seen are equatorial bow sundials. Here is some information on those: How to build an equatorial bow sundial?

See http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/cosira-books-9615/ for a possible way to get the PDFs.

I got my power hammer today. When the guy delivering it saw the place it was meant to go to, he sayed "No way!". In the end we managed to put it in its place. Now I have to find out how to fix the oiler, replace a gasket etc.

I guess it is time for an update. The building itself has been been more or less ready for about a month now. I've been quite busy so all I have done during that time is painting the inside and sanding/treating the floor. Yesterday I drove to our family cottage to get the blacksmithing stuff from a small shed I've been using as a shop during last couple of summers. The new shop still needs all the wiring to be done. It has somewhat difficult to find an electrician.

That's a very cool looking place you have over there.

Great link. Thanks for posting it!

I'm getting the new Natural England page as well, and I cannot find the books on there. You can, however, use the web-archive to access the old pages: Craft publications. It is a bit slow, but it works. I just downloaded all the ones I hadn't already.

Check the page 90 from the COSIRA book: http://www.countryside.gov.uk/Images/BlacksmithscraftPart5_tcm2-18916.pdf

No, they didn't put any top coating on it. The silicates don't, if I've understood correctly, need any top coating...

Has any of you any experience/knowledge on using silicates (sodium silicate=water glass, fluosilicates) on concrete floors? My shop floor was poured yesterday. I will sand it next weekend and then I want to put something on it for dust binding. Silicates can be used about two weeks after pouring so I could use them before getting all the stuff in.

Could it be that he attached a new face to the anvil with thermite welding?

Here in Finland we have certifications given by the government. You can get a journeyman and master blacksmith certification. You can go to a test regardless of your background, although most often people go through training courses; roughly a one year course for journeyman and a two and a half year course for master blacksmith.The courses aren't, to my understanding, very demanding. On top of smithing you need to show knowledge on marketing, running business, designing and using/knowing other materials than black iron.

Rob, thanks for the offer. I'm now paying to get it finished, and thus don't need help right now. You are welcome to visit the shop once it is ready.

Paul, thanks for the info. I couldn't anything on that on Metso minerals www-pages. Is that meant to be used directly under the machine and what kind of layer thicknesses are used?

Thanks for the replies. It seems that there shouldn't be any problems with the 12" size. The codes require that the flue is insulated where it goes through ceiling/roof. So this is what I'm planning to have at the moment: 2 meters (6.5 feet) of non-insulated 12" tube above the forge and then 2 meters of insulated tube. I want to have non-insulated tube at the bottom as it is easier to make a side draft flue out of it and also to get some heating to the shop (it is cold here for most of the year). I still have to check this with the building control on Monday (could get in contact with them on Friday).

Is that a side draft hood? I would assume a side draft hood to get hotter than an overhead one as there is less room air getting into it and it is closer to the fire... If the building control decides to get nasty they can ask me to provide some calculations before installing any kind of a flue. So if any of you have any data on flue sizes and temperatures then that could potentially be really valuable to me.

I should get a flue/chimney for my new shop. It seems that the size most often recommended is 10". Over here they only seem to have sizes up to 8" on the shelf. A 10" flue would have be ordered (4-5 weeks). In one place they had some pieces of 12" flue, that they would sell for the price of 10". I was reading the building codes for chimneys and there was a warning that a too large chimney would cause the gasses to cool too much and thus the draft wouldn't be good enough. There was some chart on chimney sizes for oil furnaces. That chart only went up to about 10". So my question is that could 12" be too much? It is going to be a straight flue (about 4meters/13feet). I was planning to make a side draft flue but it seems that it doesn't fulfill the codes over here. You shouldn't be able to touch any part of a flue/chimney that gets over 80C (176F). I could get away with that by using insulated flue all the way from the forge up to top, but that stuff costs an arm and leg... I guess I have to call someone in building control centre tomorrow.

The roof beams are laminated. I'm really happy of how the building is progressing at the moment. The guy doing it is really fast.