martensite

That would be page 219 .

Not only possible but Weyger `s book The Complete Modren Blacksmith has complete directions on how to do it.Now we need someone to do it and post it !!!

Frank,do you think it could also have gone out of vogue due to the decline in draft`s used for work? The sharper peen works really well in isulating the steel needed for drawing out a toe clip and as light horse shoes normally don`t have these the Chicago pattern slowly became obselete?? This also makes it a poor choice for the fullering type work most use a wide peen for making it more of a specality tool then a general use hammer as Dan E pointed out.

What also works is after you have it mounted in your frame build a u shaped jig that clamps onto the treadle stand,drill two holes on either side so you can put two pins through.Put rubber bands or bungie cords to give constent pressure and pedal away!!This was how i was told how to do it by an older gentleman at our museum.However your legs may hate you :D

Hey Mike ,goggle Ed Fowler.52100 is all he use`s for his knives.His books give you the steps he use`s for heat treating.

Mark, the tongs in the center of your pics. do you know what the name on them are?Just picked up a pair like them.Anyone have a idea what there intended use is?Thks Dave.

Well so far a good summer,picked up a 50lb LG,16 inch shaper,6 inch jaw legvise,buffalo forge blower with original stand, stepvise ,and some misc.tongs,tools. :D

Hmmm ,Brisbane yep that`s local!!!Come on down,look forward to meeting you. p.s.will pray for tail wind. :P

The heritage museum were i demo has there threashermen`s weekend on july 30 - august 2.THis is in Steinbach,Manitoba,Canada.Anyone who would like to come down and spend some time in the forge is welcome.Send me a pm for more info.Now i know this is just for the local guys so if this post needs to be moved elsewhere ,admin pls do.Dave.

Nicely done.Your brass ruler caught my eye i used to have one till it got legs and walked away.Were did you pick yours up,i haven`t been able to find one and i really miss it.

Glad i could help, if i can find the complete one in the shop i can post pics if you like.

What you have there is a sharpening stone for a sickle mower.The handle is for applying pressure onto the mower knives,it sharpens two blades in one pass,that is why the stone is tappered.You also are missing some peices as it should have a handcrank to turn the gear which spins the stone.

In clinton's first post the nameplate reads knockout on it.There website shows there promo mascot as a boxer to go with the K O Lee name.Not sure how to link it but the website is www.kolee.com .

From the K O Lee web site they show there products to be for the auto ind, mostly grinders.This would make me guess it's the table feed for one of there surface grinders.

Found the oil or beeswax finish to last for up to 1-2 years outside but i rub it in at a high black heat just after the color is fully out.None of the other posts mention this are you finishing it cold??Have also used lard in the same way then while still some heat in it rubbed with beeswax and buffed to a shine.

Good luck and do post pics ,we do love to see others work.

What some people use is satanite.You just mix up a thin slurry and put on 2-3 thin layers.Found some at Ellis Knifeworks for 10$ which gets you 5lb.

I use an old ammo box,put a pc of plywood on the bottom to protect edge's.It also is waterproof unless it's sitting in a puddle :P

Forge cat ,now they don't like anything messing with there shop be carefull or you may get kicked out yourself!! :D

Wonderfull work!!There is one thing you may want to do and that is put a screen around the cap area as you have a perfect heated bird perch there.They will put it to good use and quickly as soon as they find it.

In "The Complete Modren Blacksmith " by Alexander G Weygers he has a number of chapters on what he states as trolley rail and how to treat them and shape into forging dies.As for a quench he suggest using oil.

They look like what we used for setting the hot steel rim onto wooden wheels.Lots of leverage to force the rim on and with two or three guys rim goes on even and no distorsion from hammer blows.Maybe was just improvising on the oldtimers part.

Yes it does to a degree but the biggest thing is as the face is so much smaller you really have to work on your hammer control.With the smaller face your blows have to be so much closer together however this with the cupped face moves steel very fast.Made some crosses and flared the ends of the arms the time to do this was cut in half with my hellor bros.Then again messed up a couple as the steel moved so fast i thinned it out and pushed the steel everwhere it wasn't supposed to go,oh well live and learn.

Not sure about collectors with no sense but have a hellor bros as per markb's pic and i'd pay the same for another one as for anyone else's hammer that's out there today , it works beautiful.If anything have to be careful as it moves steel very fast with the smaller face and consentrated weight.

Glad your still with us!!! What kind of rpm was the stone at as i have a number of stones like that which i was going to put power to???The stones would be going on a setup i bought at auction that is powered and has seen a lot of use with this type of stone already in place.Do you think it was due to the speed you were at that it blew???