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I Forge Iron

ZIG

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Tenn. on Ky. Lake/Tn river
  • Interests
    hunting ,fishing , waterfowl, blacksmithing

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  1. Thanks for breaking things down this way. This is easier to remember ,. I'm gonna write some of this down on my chalkboard,in my shop. It was a good read. Appreciate that. Hope other's tske the time to read it .
  2. Your correct about using a stall mat and silicone. It's amazing what that stuff will do. I have worked in heavy industry,all my life. Been a Boilermaker over 25+ years., and have seen silicone do things that you wouldn't believe . It will out last 1 inch thick tile . It will still be there and it's getting blasted with coal dust out of the pulverizer. The silicone will still be there and the tile will be worn down to,the housing. It absorbs the vibration and can take a beating. I'm in the process of building a tire hammer and I gotta big crack in ,my shop floor, so I'm gonna cut out the concrete where I'm gonna place my hammer. So it want crack the rest of the floor . I'm gonna use the stall mats ,myself. And silicone . So I appreciate the good news on using silicone ,and felt washers under the anchor bolts. I'm gonna beef things up ,simply cause I need to cut some expansion joints ,for where my floor is cracked anyway. Just so it don't bust it anymore ,plus it's unlevel now. So that section must go. Cause I'm to OCD to shim anything . I've got to do,things as perfect as I can.
  3. The foundry used to pour out ,what they called a Pig,. But it was basically the slag and impurities that were left in the bull ladle. They would pour it out into a big mold ,much like a cupcake paper thing ,. But they would shovel in that black sand ,that they used to,make the molds, and pour this crud out into the pig mold,. Then stick a looped bar into it, so,when it cooled they could jerk it out of thr mold. Each one weighted about 600 pounds , I used 4 of them to anchor my floating duck blind ,in the river. I wondered what someone might think ,a couple 100 years from now , when the find them laying there.
  4. Make someone a present like 99 said. And it will be here long after we are gone. A ten minute job On a piece and your momma or whoever will treasure that thing and make sure it goes to someone That appreciates it when They pass away. But of course. I try to not highlight That it only took me 30 minutes to make That banana tree holder or less on the spring stock I turn into bread baskets to set on the dinner table. We live in a throw away world nowdays. And a gift like 99's candle holder. That type item will Be cherished When we are all gone. Someone will say " my daddy or uncle made that " hopefully helping to keep the craft alive in the future. Just my thoughts. But _I may be biased seeing how I'm 5 th generation in the trade as a profession. But people love this stuff. The ones that Don't. Well. They get something that probably want Be around 10 yrs from now. Women are easier to make stuff for anyway. As gifts. Those old uncles usually have something to say. So they get a gift card if I draw their name at Christmas. Lol Need To be working on stuff right now. But I get so many Good ideas from folks on here. I gotta keep checking y'all work. Thanks for sharing. 99.
  5. I use anti seize and spray it down with Kroil. Makes everything slick. But That combo came to use. Because that's what we use at work. Not saying its the best or even right place to use It. But it is a great combo. The anti seize of the key sure helps when removing it. And I work in a coal fired steam plant. So plenty of fly ash to get into everything everywhere. But the hammer in the shop. Has anti seize and kroil oil applied. But depends on who uses it That day.too
  6. Great gift idea. And as someone said, its a Good design to teach. I need to get my butt in gear on Christmas presents. Cause it's post Like this that give me alot more ideas and makes me think of who to give them too. Don't want to give everyone a Fredericks cross. At least Not at the same time. Scared They will compare the mistakes between them. So I Like to give everyone something different. They can swap later if one decided They had To have a certain piece. Keep posting the Good work.
  7. I was always taught that if You grind one weld on anything, down smooth that is. ,that you will or should grind them all after that. So I too use my stick machine To apply limbs and such. But reheat them And try to draw the dogknots,( technical term for globs ) back down. A tig is the perfect way To attach things. Cause you can wash things away and blend welds into other things. But even though I make my living as a tig welder. I Don't have one at home. So I use a little mig alot on things. Cause my AC stick machine can be a booger to make small tacks.
  8. Thanks guys. I got you now. Forgot there was a picture of it on here. That thing gets hot being right over the top of the Forge. I'm gonna build a idle circuit too. With supports ,now That I know what I should do. Appreciate yalls input.
  9. Were You speaking about adding a 90 to the top of the already 10-12 in Pieces of pipe that came with the forge? Or are you meaning to just 90 outta the top and out 4-6 inches? I just figured by using a 45 And Then add the pipe that came with it. Would kick it out enough? Just wanting to Be clear.
  10. Hay bidden made some That sold thru Keen Kutter. They were called Blackjack Made in USA and soilid wrought. Or mine says That. The USA is the most prominent lettering/stencils still on my 1906 model. Hope that helps. Only Had the hay budden proof mark under the horn. The catalog for keen kutter is found online.
  11. I have one myself. 2 burner. With the brick. Same scenario happened to me. I relined it all. They are good for the money. Just needs to have the black iron angled over. Instead of straight up. Gets to hot. And needs a idle circuit too. But That's why they are cheaper than most. Nothing a person Can't redo on their own. If they saw fit to do. Think I'm gonna run copper or probably SS lines. Just cause we use It so much at work. And my pipefitter is better at bending tubing than I. Am. Lol
  12. I have the same Forge as the original poster has shown. Other than mine is a middle access ,straight thru the fire box. I had issues with the way the black iron pipe was letting gas slip In behind the top metal shell. Between the brick And it eventually allowed the brick to come off, due to the top metal warping some. So I relined it And sealed all the brick joints and made sure there wasn't any way gas could get between the top brick and top shell. I really Like This little forge. I only have one issue that I haven't addressed. The way the black pipe And bell reducers are mounted right on top. The adjustment controls. Get so hot that You can't touch them. But after reading yalls replies to the OP's questions. I believe, correct me if I'm messing up. But I need to put, say,? a.nipple in the top , with a 45 fitting and get the controls out from over the top of This rig. But I wasn't sure if that would allow the venturia effect to work as well. Seeing. How there Ain't any damper plates on top of the bell reducers. Where the torch modeled fittings are? Plus with a rubber hose connected directly to those controls. It catches a ton of heat. And I should know better than have a hose that close and above it anyway. So anyone done this to theirs? The black pipe will be on a 45 , but the flow will enter top dead center. On my 2 burner model. I need to put a needle valve idle inline to save fuel. But was gonna wait till I got the hard pipe out from over the forge, so much. So would that degree change effect the pull or mixing of fuel and O2? Or Like someone commented about. , That It may help to allow turbulence within What would be considered the mixing chamber ? Thanks In advance.
  13. This was a good read. Learned somethings. Got a few ideas,too. Wish I was still running the boiler shop at work. I could've made anything I wanted. I will build my own gas forge next time. And use some of the ideas from This post.
  14. I got some chalk board paint. Put It on plywood. And I can use big kids crayons. They draw with in tjr driveway with. I have the plywood on a layout table. And on the wall too. So I can play around making it all fit right. But I Don't do huge gates. But for various things. I can leave tjr chalk crayons on there. Use different colors for different pieces. And I can hold my pieces up against the board to check against it. If and when the chalk board get to heat scarred up. I can repaint it or flip It over. But I use my shop floor with that colored chalk at times. Just rather stay standing up most I can. The colors hejp me. Especially when doing mirror images of things. Just my way. Plus its easy And cheap. When I run out of plywood. I'm gonna see about hardier board. Concrete stuff. To lay on the table painted all chalkboard black. Anyone else use kids section items to layout things. ? I keep my draft table and tools for That on my desk. To transpose the measurments. And have a couple pieces of sheet metal for the HVAC Guy.
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