CheechWizard

i say make some new tongs. its never a bad thing to have some big boys around the shop

i meant to say ive never made a dogs head hammer* i've only made one hammer and did it with the piece loose under my punch, when doing it this way you can easily keep your piece rotating and flipping it over so you get an evenly shaped eye, however i punch first and forged everything else after.

how will you hold the punch or drift of you're holding the thing needing to be punched? ive made a dogs head hammer before, is it because of the off center eye that makes it to hard to just punch it without any kind of hold down device? or are you using a treadle hammer or something? sorry for all the questions im just confused

the surface feet per minute depends on the the size of your wheel, 1750 rpm is probably ideal for a saw running a 12 inch wheel if you're doing wet cuts, when cutting dry you want a much higher SFPM heres the formula: 0.262 x D x RPM = SFPM SFPM / 0.262 x D = RPM

nice drawn knife and gouge, i recently made a gouge swage myself not sure if i want to try to put a hard attatchment on it or use it flat, its pretty heavy on it own so i may leave it we'll see, remember you're gonna be using that draw knife both ways around so keep that in mind when grinding/curving/doing what you do. neat idea, got some nice big nibs on der, never thought of using black pipe for anything but making fire, heh heh, fire, fire....

have you ever tried engraving? i made some quick little tools for some none ferrous metals out of some old chain saw files. of course the finished products weren't good but when you were able to make a nice clean pass, especially on a curved line it felt so good. i'd like to revisit it only with some proper tools and a little small bench with a quick clamp or something, you know or just a comfortable space cos stuff like that takes focus and being uncomfortable or constantly having to re-adjust really throws off my rhythm, as it usually would with anyone theres a fellow on youtube who does a lot of brass work i forget his name but ill pm you his channel when i find it i think you'll get a kick out of it. JHCC

not bad for such a complex design. hard to get the rhythm down innit?

sup mg! i was supposed to be year of 05 but i dropped out, i hung out at the stoop most or the skateboarders till they all graduated then i moved over to the stoners lol. im down here in mcminnville. so even tho its only 30 miles from pdx is still like an hour drive cos old highway 99

dang busted my chain right before the first triathlon of the year, oh well this one was getting a tad rusty now i have an excuse to go to walmart~

i like this skull openers, dont think ive seen ones quite like that, need to make a bottle opener one of these days, or maybe not. most people i know use lighters and i rarely partake. anyhow. got a spring bit bigger then the last so i made a quick bar bending hardy out of an RR anchor, not exactly the bell of the ball though

i lighter hammer with a more subtle fuller may help with cleaner finishing, most satisfying project ive done so far, feels somewhere around 2 pounds

other then sanding the file marks and some detailing im pretty close to fit and finish on this gal. got the brass from an old victor oxygen regulator, pretty thick stuff, it was too rickity for safe use in my opinion anyway. the scales are sitting between a layer of duck tape with the tape lightly glued to the steel. any gaps on the un-drilled side are still fixable it was mostly just a lazy test fit you're seeing. d arn super glue drys to fast when you dont want it too. BONUS! little widdling knife i made from some thin coil spring as a gift for my roomy (she's super rad) sorry about the picture i have habbit of bringing knives to bed with me ps: should i use brass pins on the bolster? i feel like something too contrasting will be weird especially cos they dont feel evenly placed

recently made my second pair out of leaf spring, they're bolt tongs and i thought the drawn piece between the boss and the bit wasnt thick enough but dang can those things withstand alot of pressure. hasnt came out of alignment at all.

there was a study more or less disproving the dunning-kruger effect. with the exception of humor

coil spring widdler, i was gonna do a traditional wooden carving knife handle but this little antler guy came together pretty effortlessly, the antler is dense down to the core so no problems there. also discovered you can get a cool surface pattern on the right copper with a wire wheel, kinda a wrinkley flowy type business

Latticino! thanks for the constructive critique and compliments. i honestly with i would have left the back blunt as more useful. thanks again it means alot Cheers thomes check this bit of industrial waste i salvaged. i gave up guessing what it came from but its 3 feet long without the U at the end and its 1 1/2 thick. sparks like medium carbon. i was hoping for 4140 but you get what you get. come to think of it, ive never spark tested 4140 . chains are always welcome and that little plate with a hole will find a use im sure

glad the i saw this thread up Frosty, i was gonna hit you up about a new burner im doing. very similar to my previous with minor tweaks and went back to a bell reducer for the nozzle

finally finished the hawk, the first couple inches to just over critical. quenched in heated veggie oil, turned off forged, wire brushed and sanded lightly the first 2 or so inches and used the forge to relieve some hardness, ended up at a nice medium brown on the cutting edge broken sledge handle i repurposed wasnt quite wide enough so theres a little gap on the tapered side, need invest in some wider stock. so... can i get some honest opinions? with the welding issues aside aesthetically wise lay it on me. to me the drift is made for more your classic hand axe style hatchet then a hawk. but idk what do yall think

look Mordecai i fashioned one of them fancy none hand crank tommy hawk de-blemisher outta that motor the lord bestowed on me during our bi-yearly trash run. btw the hawk still has hideous occlusions on the top and bottom side. if it makes it through the the quench im gonna see how fast i can make the bit fall out....

looking good has a nice flow to it. if you really wanna get better at knives do what you need to do and try and harden it, if it dont harden the first thing you need to do is get yourself some steel more suitable for blades, find some leaf spring thats not too thick, its not the easiest to work with. i started on files. ive yet to make a knife that i can proudly show, though read discussions here on IFI and mingling with the locals will speed up your learning considerably. but so will repitition. lately ive been focused more on tools as you'll learn quick sometimes you need 5 tool to make the thing you were wanting then when you go to make it you realize you need 2 more.

right but as im sure you know current draw depends on load, but knows maybe his press will need every last bit of that 4.6kw. its a bummer 3 phase isnt standard here in the states as with larger motors you have so much more control over efficiency with use of a proper vfd. all though ive heard of single phase vfd's i think its generally not recommended even if it says "single phase vfd" on the box. then again i never stop learning. heres a little tinkering i was doing, im i do use it for this application ill do proper housing/cooling. garsh i hate that particular grinding wheel, i like slightly higher grit motorgrinder.mp4

cool cool. wonder how many amps you're gonna end up drawing on average. if you keep track of that stuff keep us posted!

wow those antique tools had me drooling, so prettty. if diamonds are a girls best friend then restored hand tools are a mans. (bad joke } JHCC nice motor, mind posting the label? looks like same mount type as the 3 1/3 hp i just scored, y48? those mounting feet are a bit flimsy they're warp on you after a while, will you' have to do a custom jobby for your presscious probably anyhow? i ended up getting that 3.3hp motor running btw,it was the start cap as suspected. the new one i usedis a a few microferads under spec bust its just enough to get her purrin.. so much quieter then the treadmill perm magnet motors i have lordamercy. took the pump assemb. off. It has a 3 1/2 in half inch shaft with 3/8th-16 pich threaded end. tried a couple 6inch bench grinder wheels on it and man. so much smoother then my 1/3 horse grinder. i may have to get an adapter to extend and reinforce the shaft for 8 inch abravise wheels/buffers/wire wheels. my second thought would be to build simple lathe with pillow blocks and step sheaves, etc etc. or i could build another belt grinder

big dog forge does a log splitter conversion, i think he went from a 5 hp gas motor to a 3hp electric (roughly 2100 watts) check hit vid out his press turned out really slick

vinegar can be used to bring out hamones and pantern welds. same technique japanese would use to polish blades except (correct me if im wrong) i think they use lemon juice traditionally. acid polid rinse repeat. ive done it on a san mai and got some cool results i took quite a bit of effort as you dont want the vinager to sit too long or it will leave a rust color