CheechWizard

if you look closely from the top view you can see where the bit meets the body of the hawk, then i have a very thin layer laminating out a ways as you can see from some faint lines in the side views, my question is do you think theres enough to secure the bit once putting through another welding cycle? there are some areas that are seemless so there was some solid welding achieved im just worried about the longevity as i like to put my tools through the ringer

i was in a rush prepping to put in a bit on the hawk im making and made a shallow cut and didnt taper the bit enough. i think another forge heat should fix it still pretty bummed. it slipped out a but on the first or second one if im to finish it i have some truing up to do, i ran out of propane right before i was gonna do one more heat so i didnt have time to do much in the way aesthetically

made a couple trips to the dump today and the guy next to me was tossing an 3 hp single phase pump. he said it turned on but it just buzzed. i noticed the start capacitor still attached and asked if he'd tried replacing it, he said he didnt care to bother messing with it and i could take it if i wanted. also returned with a couple other little picks. the springs are on pretty tiny not sure what to use em for. scribes? center punches? the bust snap on swivel wrench might be fun tho. anyone know what kinda steel it might be? also had a replacement start cap im gonna give a try tomorrow morning, its the one im holding

howdy! i spent most of my life between lacey and olympia, went to north thurston but i lived closer to hawks prarie. how are things up there right now with the pandemic and what not? i havent visited in 3 years. moved down about an hour south of portland some 5 years ago. i miss washington

awww shucks i took what was supposed to be a cat nap and slept the last 2 hours of daylight away oh how i wish i lived out in the boondocks. the smithing gods have mercy on the boy from out in the boondocks

jlpservicesinc nice videos! finding em really helpful. been intimidated to try doing chains but i may have to try some soon. im watching one you did on basket twists right. good xxxx!

this is how far i managed to drift it before i made a janky drill bit from a flat head screw driver and further burrow and burn my way deeper into the stump beneath my drifting plate. just normalized the drift and gave it a fair amount of abuse with my 5 pound fyatte r plumb big boy hammer. no bending as far as i can tell. and aside from my own poor alignment i feel i like an ok job was achieved. however my judgement is based on my whimsically ignorant biased opinion. what do YOU guys think. am i disillusioned into believing my work is better then it is?? or have i maded a lengthy bit of hard steel to widen tight slits for months to come?

JHCC have you ever done anything with those channeloc anchors?? the j shaped U channel type ones? i have some and havnt had many ideas. ive messed with the V ones a bit tho

lol, would you guys bother hardening a drift made of leaf spring? seems kinda pointless

[Commercial link removed per TOS] found this pdf from a company that says they use spring steel or equivelent for anchors for whatever thats worth

made a lil bolster plate for a hatchet drift. needs more depth gonna take care of that tomorrow.

oh man that axe drift out of leaf spring was intense, used a 5 pounder till i couldnt swing anymore then i switched to a 3. but i got a tear shaoe and a taper roughed in enough that proudly say its hand forged. even its bout to get to know the grinder here pretty soon

made a slitter and tested it on a nice size chunk, i reckon my hammer drift could work to open her up a lil but i think im gonna make one specifically for this slitter. leaf spring slitter tested on medium carbon steal the side view doesnt do the taper justice, although i wish it was a bit more abrupt

the smitty gods have shown favor on to me in the form of much wrought iron. my new room mate brought me home little piece just the other day, its about 8" length wise and half inch square. they recently re-opened a junk yard not to far from my house after a bad fire they had, ive been meaning to go check it out. may find some treasures ya'll ever make tongs from leaf spring? while i was forging out the jaws i had let them get to hot to hold by the reigns, even red hot further up so i dipped them in water reigns end first which i have een doing just not when they were so hot. sure enough go cracks the size of the panama canal. in hindsight i could have taco'd some material around 3 of the worse sides and forge welded from there, instead i ground the worse areas down as much as i could and forged welded a strip of leaf spring to the 2 worst sides... lol turned out ok but i shoulda just started over but i couldnt scrap it given how hard it is for me to work spring steel.

thomas i think you're right about it being a harrow tooth

the drift was an unkown piece of hex i found at habitat, pretty hard stuff on its own, it skated a chainsaw file when quenched in oil (i always test before committing to making a tool out of something) the hot cut was a very large very old looking cold chisel, would have been smart to use an air hardening steel however atleast its not plain old mild steel. got it done in one night too. about to go out and give it a test. i think tonight im make a hatched drift. i got some leaf spring that tapers almost to a point from like 7/16ths. gonna cut it in half long ways and work from there. if it works well i may commit to an axe drift later that rr spike in the picture is wrought iron believe it or not. the shape is more of a diamond shape and the head is much smaller then modern spikes. its also smaller in general

what i got done over the weekend, cant wait to test that hot cut. what do you guys think? im really happy with how the tongs work, they're made with leaf spring. (the piece on the right is slitter/drift, used it to start the eye of the hot cut)

nice!

they're a little wonky looking but the jaws and reigns line up nicely and holds tight. and they feel real nice and sturdy too like i can really lean into something with worrying about throwing them outta alignment

what's the general starting price per hour for striking now days? the federal minimum if you will

ive done a little bit with them. they're hardened new anneal like a simple carbon steal would its seems, and hardens very well in oil just post non mag. problem is already have bevels taking up a decent amount of the already small surface, they forge weld fine but cutting all those little rectangle would be pain staking. so i figured times would arise where id need a personal tool that needs a hardenable bit, they're thin but if its just for me heck it, cashing in on a little of my steel hoarding is always gratifying. anyway yesterday i thought small simple folding carving/widdling knives, re-usable utility knives for your people working in the many jobs that reguire breaking down boxes. you get the picture, little folding knives. lit up the heat maker at around 7:30 and proccessed a piece of what i think was bed frame spring?. slipeed it threw the whole and started twisting. now this one wont fold but it will give me an idea of the likely hood i can produce some good tools with little waste and minor modification to the original piece of material.

For more oddball quenchants from the Renaissance: Sources for the History of the Science of Steel, 1532 - 1786; C.S.Smith; has a list in it.

so i found what looks to be an old butchers hook (they use em to move carcasses around the freezer and what not) it may have also been a hay bale tool but the hook was more or less a straight bend rather then a rounded hook. anyway turned out to be wrought iron. heres a lil proto type i did for my fiancee to try and get approval for a new coat rack in our room first time doing a hook like that. i like it but the next one ill do better.

this was an project i started back when i first started posting on here so i had some pretty rough bevels forged in but it might as well be stock removel, 60 grit belts. idk why i didnt just switch over to hand filing before i did any damage. also gotta line up the handle a little better with the pamal nut.might end up doing the old epoxy fill in trick with the tang waxxed to make up for empty space. i NEED to get a dress press vise but i can barely keep a regular bench vise on hand. broke 3 little ones in the past few months and my big cole vise is too heavy for my bench. need to work out a way to mount it but the way its designed is tough. 80 pounds just hanging off the edge

new grinder (2x48) 120 scr controller, added some extra filtering and kept the surge protection left over from the power conditioner i gutted mostly for the enclosure new anvil stand made from 4x12's and lag bolts. lastly a small dagger im working on. gonna switch to hand filing to work out some a-symmetry.