SoCal Dave

Very nice job! How long did it take you to make the chandelier, (hours) and number of workers? Where there any really difficult aspects or was it pretty straight forward?

I found that on my LG hammer, my technique was bad and found the square going towards the diamond after a period of hammering. So, I went back to hammering like MacBruce. That style of hammering has worked well for me as I can concentrate better/more on the hammer blows and have a little bit better control. I try to hit each side the same number of times as I'm drawing it threw, and also look at the size of each side.

Here in Ventura County, Calif, coal forges are not allowed by the AQMD. Their thinking is that as long as there is an alternative fuel, propane, they won't allow those smoke breathing dragons. Even though I explained that they weren't the same, they didn't buy it. If you were out of the city, in the country area, you probably would get away with it. But, all it takes is a call from a neighbor down wind to report you and your done. Good luck.

Menze: I don't understand why you wouldn't charge full price because it wasn't "good enough". You could redo a simple project for your entire life redoing it over and over again and again until you happen to one day produce "the perfect one". I assume there is always something about a project that I know it could have been done better or different the next time. That is the nature of doing things by hand. If you want perfection each time, buy a machined part. If you want to twist two bars and you turn each one the same number of twists, when finished they look similar. But if you looked really close, you can see little imperfection in the twists. They didn't come out exactly the same. I would say they are "Good enough". I believe in all hand forged projects there is always the imperfection, but that is the beauty behind hand made.

I had taken a week long class from Frank a few years ago. Loved every minute. Frank is an encyclopedia of blacksmith history, technics, and skills. I suggest everyone interested in Frank's School sign up this year as Frank is getting older, as we all are. You will love it. I felt like I was transported back in time and working in a old blacksmith shop with a Master Blacksmith.

Thanks guys. Airgas is near me and they recommended Stoody. I'm not sure what number, but I indicated an abrasive designed rod. Of course, they could order any brand they want. I will report when I 've completed the hardfacing.

Great job and should work great. I like the thickness of you side walls. Should last a long time. I do like the no socks so some slag from the cutting torch can find it's way between your skin and shoe. A real Hot foot.

Also, if they have to show customers the old parts that look in good shape, they might not be so quick to suggest replacements.

The rake is dragged from a tractor to groom 6 arena's twice a week. There is a picture of the rake included in my first post here and I will be working on the comb that makes the final groves in the arenas. The arena's are a combination of sand and decomposed granite. I'm not sure of the ratio. The rake has been in use for about one year and has warn through one comb already. I have a brand new comb that I want to hardface. To best describe the pattern I was going to use on hardfacing the comb, assume the teeth of the comb is like a triangle. Starting at the tip and proceed along the sides up to where the sand no longer touches the comb. Run passes straight from the tip to the base or the long axis. Each pass would be run next to the last with a little overlap, but not on top of a previous pass. If you know of a better pattern, please feel free to advise.

Is there any specific pattern that is better when hardfacing. I was going to just run straight root passes with some overlapping of the welded edges.

Now there is someone with to much time on their hands. What about climate change in 10,000 years?

What happens when the sun don't shine?

There is lots of horseshoe art out there. I 've seen a "cowboy on a bucking horse" all out of 6 to 8 horseshoes. You can make bookends, a boot scrapper, a horse,(if you are artistic), picture frames, coat or hat rack, or halter/bridle rack. The list is endless.

Chain bar oil is what Sid at Little Giant recommends and uses on LG hammers.

Matt: Contact Sid at Little Giant. I'm sure he knows the solution. In what way is it affecting the hammers performance? Let us know the outcome and what you did to correct the problem. Good luck.

If you can arc weld than you can hardface the plow. You need hardfacing rod, Stoody 35 for example, and just do it. Any hardfacing surface on the plow will help preserve it and your welding so far is good enough. Talk to other farmers who have hardfaced their equipment and the guy at your welding supply. Good luck.

3,600 layers. To the non-blade person, does that mean you forged welded it, cut it in half, and forged welded again, cut and forged again, X @...#e.&%+=3,600 layers?

I talked to my welding supplier, and he said Stoody 35 should do the trick. Anyone with experience with that rod? Any tips on using that rod?

Welcome to the L.A. area and yes there are blacksmiths here. The local blacksmith school is called Adam's Forge and they have a web site. I have taken several classes there and will be taking a class this Jan 12th from Dorothy Steigler. They have a great set up and it's a good place to start meeting people. You are correct in that Vista california, south of L.A. is the only other location that is close. Most are north of L.A. in the San Francisco or above areas. What kind of blacksmithing have you done, how long, and what do you want to do? Do you have a blacksmith shop set up?

Most welding schools and welding suppliers use flexible exhaust tubing, next to the welding material, to suck away the fumes. Or, as suggested, use a fan to blow the fumes away from you.

Good luck in your search. There is always a silver lining above a dark cloud. You just can't see it all the time.

I looked into the same situation you are dealing with. There was also the issue of stealing power from my home while running the 3 phase motor. So, I did get a new single phase "general farm motor" for a power hammer and it works great without any side issues. The phase converter wasn't cheap either.

My time would be donated since it would benefit the community. I am not a certified welder but have done a lot of Arc welding, not hardfacing. If someone knows of a welding rod that would be best for hardfacing mild steel, other than borium or drilltek, I would appreciate the suggestion. I have heard mentioned Lincoln Wearshied ME.

A picture of the crumbly splatter would help.

The welder in the corner of the shop or demonstration tent is like the 800 lb gorilla that no one wants to talk about. I think there should be some room/tent for electrical welding. It has it's place in blacksmithing so lets talk about it, learn about it, and teach about it. There will always be the purist and they have a place in this world, but so do all the practical welding blacksmiths who use all the tools at their disposal. If you work with metal, you never know where it may lead and what a friend may ask you to do since you are the metal guy.