SoCal Dave

I've read all the comments above and understand what a artist/craftperson/blacksmith must do to survive or thrive in todays market. But, aren't we asking a lot from the craft person? I do understand, but why is that the craft person has to wear all these different hats. What if the blacksmith is a really good blacksmith, but is not good in all the other aspects of a business, or, doesn't like the business part. When the blacksmith was king, people came to him. I just want a little of that today. Is that impossible? The answer is yes. It is a sad note

This society has become a throw away/disposable world in which there is little value in handcrafted objects. With the advent of water jets and lasers and robots that can do so many things in such a short time and in such great detail, blacksmiths or craft people find it more difficult to compete with these machines. What was extremely difficult or labor intensive before can be programed to produce 100 items in seconds. I know there is a market for hand made items, but I feel that market is shrinking each and everyday. I feel kind of like Rich Hale. In the time I have taken to type this response, I have not offered a solution or direction because I don't see one. It must be to just survive and stay the course. It's a sad note!

This might help. Copied it from this site a long time ago.

I went to visit a Blacksmith, Benard Collins, today who does very elaborate and wonderful work. He works in stainless steel, bronze and steel. I read an article in the local newspaper about him and arranged to meet him. A small shop filled with wonder pieces that he has made. He is having a difficult financial time these days as he says "people want things for cheap". As usual, when you look at his work you realize how much time and effort must go into all his projects, and how much he must charge to even brake even. But, today, it doesn't seem that people want to pay for that effort. It is a sad state of affairs where we are today with blacksmith artists. I really don't see a way out for those struggling artist. It seems to me that there is lots of money out there but not for craft people. The stock market has rebound and many are making millions of dollars. The craft fairs seems to have a price point and when you figure in the cost of paying for a location at a fair, transportation, the cost of producing the pieces, it becomes outrageous how many piece an artist must sell to even brake even. Just had to get this off my mind since I saw a hard working man who should be selling all his work and not have business struggles because of a lack of customers.

I just got a Hay Budden with some numbers that I could use some help with. Under the name is the numbers 312. Under the horn I found A31238. Does someone know what these numbers stand for? Thanks in Advance.

Pattro: Welcome to blacksmithing. I'm in Simi Valley. One day you, Chinobi, and I must get together. What blacksmithing equipment do you have? The Adam's Forge suggestion is good advice. Good luck. David

Just got this yesterday. Removed a little of the paint and found y budde That's all I can make out so far. Am I correct, in that there should be some numbers below the name? Where else should I find markings? It has a strange hollow sound to it, but I believe that is due to the base it has been attached to for the past 50 years.

It sounds like 7014 rod is what I need since we are only dragging arenas of DG and sand, no rocks. Great info!

Do they have a 7018 rod I can us with my old lincoln AC welder? Also, if I made a two layer deposit with the Stoody rod, that might equal 1/2" and so for those pins that are only a 1/2" short that would be enough. Thanks DSW.

I had hardfaced an arena rake that has a comb and some round pins that is pulled by a tractor around an arena. I didn't watch the pins wearing closely and I need to build them back up to their original length. We are talking about a1/2" to 1' amount of wear. Question: Do I build the pins back up with 6011 or 6013 rod, and then finish it off with the hardfacing rod, or do I build the entire amount back up with hardfacing rod, (Stoody 35)? I have and old lincoln 220 AC arc welder and we are talking about 20 pins.

Make a few knives and try selling them at the local craft fair, but first, go to the local craft fair to see your competition. Find out the prices for a booth, and figure how many you have to sell to pay for the booth. What happens if someone comes up and wants you to make a style of knife you've never made before? I've always believed that if you want to be an independent business person, you must and will work longer and harder for a long time than other people who are only employees. Good luck.

Both posts above a correct and should be followed. After getting some instruction on how to weld with a O/A setup, find a welding supply near you and ask them about prices. Good luck

Great poem. She is very observant and notices things many would not. You are a lucky man.

When I look at the tool, I wonder if the working end is to close to the hardy hole. Moving it down the face towards the other end might lessen the effects of the hammer blows. Also, you might weld on a bar across the top die to hit and save some of the damage to the hammered end. I like the idea of the U shape piece to keep it in line.

You also need to be aware of the adjustment of the toggle links. To much tension can cause problems which will effect the power and timing. Sid's suggestion to me was to adjust the toggle link nut until you can feel the toggle snug and then give it 2 full turns as a starting point. This was done when the pitman was at 6 o'clock and the dies where about 1" apart. You will notice that the distant between the dies can be adjust this way. Good luck.

You want the cross head somewhere in the middle of the pitman. I know that Sid didn't like it near the bottom. Also, when the top die is at the lowest point, there should be about 1" between dies and that can be adjusted with the crosshead and pitman. I have mine at 1-1/4" and that seems to be good for my #50LG. Good luck

Did you allow for sag and if so, how much? Did you incorporate any adjustment for sag as time passes? Some more pictures of the hinges, etc would be great.

Call the local Fire Dept and ask them if they know this group. If they are an established group the firemen would have trained with them. Specifically, the swift water rescue team members would know who they train with and the groups from nearby rescue districts. Good luck.

Fredy: Outdoor pieces need more than wax against the aspects of weather. After you have reached the finish you want, you would need to cover it with a clear coating auto lacquer, for example. Even with that, it is impossible to protect a piece forever against the weather. Some have used a mix of turpentine, bees wax, and linseed oil. This mix has been mentioned many times on this website. Painting it a color and then clear coating would also work for a time. I can't speak for the Minwax product. Auto paint is designed to be outside and so I've use their primer, paint and clear coating on water fountains and even on pieces that go indoors. Good luck.

The motor may be an issue if you don't have 3 phase at your place. I converted my 50# LG to a 220 single phase and it works great. It may cost more than $1000 if you need new babbits, gaskets, spring, toggle arms, pins, etc.

I really liked the video. But, I must of missed the overall view of the piece. Lots of shots of pieces of the work but not one a step or two back to see the entire piece. Did I miss it?

I feel you can use whatever tools or equipment you have at hand and whatever you want to use to restore it's functional use. When you have other tools and equipment, I am sure you will use them also. Unless, the owner wants it restored using only traditional methods, I would use the tig and try to hide to the best of your abilities, the tig welds. Good luck

I've seen on the blacksmith supplier's websites a blower that has 112 cfm's. That might be a middle of the road for you. I have a mankel three burner forge with the original blower and find it under powered for reaching welding temps. I am going to change to the 112 cfm's. Good luck and let us know what you went with and how that worked out.

Very cool!

Interesting stuff. They also carry Flat black, gray, and flat aluminum spray. I wasn't able to find it in a quart can.