Pat Roy

I've used plain parafin wax with good results. Currently I'm using the 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 formula and that is good. I think the next time I make a batch I will cut down the amount of beeswax slightly. I found beeswax alone remains sticky for a long time.

The iron work in the video is awesome, but then I'm also impressed with the art work on paper. I can't even draw a smudge!

Dave, as John B asked what style of repousse are you doing? Nice looking work on your part.

Must be "Art" because I haven't a clue.

When I first operated my forge I had to roll it outside. I did not experience a problem with smoke (no chimney) as the breeze usually carried it off. The bright sun did make it hard to read the temp of the steel. I didn't put up a shade, but as others have suggested, put up an umbrella or portable fabric shade such as you might see at outdoor flea markets etc. (steal the umbrella from the patio). Make everything portable so you can put it away when the big wind comes.

Have you noticed, generally the stupid questions/comments usually come from the adults and the kids are genuinely interested in learning?

I have a variety of hammers ranging from a 1/2 lb ball peen to a 4 lb cross peen. When I started out I only had cross peens of 1 1/4 and 4 lb. They shared the work. As time passed I accumulated more variety and now use mostly the 2 1/2 and 3 pounders. It all depends on the work of course, and now the treadle hammer does the heavy work.

Someone crossed in front of a loaded cannon!

I used a hacksaw on 3/8" material and I wasn't happy with my result; can't seem to cut straight. Also the blades don't seem to last very long. On larger material I used a hot cut and hammer and was very pleased with the results.

That's what I needed to see, now to practice, practice practice.

You won't even be able to pay for your coal if you are selling at a flea market, not to mention materials and your time.

Your link doesn't really answer the question bigfootnampa. I've been doing it with my oxy/acetylene torch but I'd like to see a good demo of a fire weld method. I've tried the mig approach and didn't like the effect.

Wearing gloves is a personal thing. I'm not going to insist that you do or don't. I wear one on my tong hand, my choice, you decide for yourself. Scale will not necessarily bounce off your skin I have found, so don't expose any more skin than necessary and wear your PPE. After looking around a bit, I'm sure you will find there is quite a bit of smithing going on in Southern New England.

That should work for you. It doesn't have to be fancy, good to have a roof but I've worked without one. Everything is portable to suit the needs. Have a great time.

The only thing I tied down in my shop is the treadle hammer (it was walking all over). The anvils are on heavy stumps. The leg vises and swage block are on heavy (but movable) stands. I move things to suit a job but things don't move often.

Is getting medical attention for the knee out of the question? You didn't mention anything about that.

Pre-heating your blast air wouldn't make it more efficient. The hot air is less dense, requiring more CFMs to deliver the same amount of oxygen to the fire. The fire doesn't care if the air is hot or cool it just wants the oxygen component.

Remember, the chimney effect requires a temperature differential between the flue gases and the ambient air. Take that away and you will have no flow.

HWooldridge You essentially made you stack taller which will automatically increase the draft. I don't believe the velocity of the smoke is fast enough to actually draw in much ambient air through that annular space. In any case mixing ambient air with your hot smoke would be counter-productive because you would be lowering the temperature of the mixed air. That would work against you. Just make your stack taller, it's simpler anyway.

Some years ago I took an introductory course on blacksmithing and the text for the course was "A blacksmithing Primer" by Randy McDaniel. In the back of the book were plans a forge table, fire box and tuyere. I followed those plans(sort of) and am still using the same setup. There are lots of similar instructions all over the internet and here in the blueprints. It isn't difficult but you need the right tools and skills.

Thanks Clinton, Now I have a better method of making pulls.

And don't forget your tetanus shot.

It would be pretty hard to design a target system that could reset itself on the final hit. Take the walk and manually reset. And like was said previously, wear you shooting glasses. I've been hit by the jacket from handgun rounds that hit poppers and duelling trees. It is a lot of fun. Handgun rounds aren't too hard on plain steel as long as it is thick enough and you aren't shooting magnums or steel core projectiles.

I'm with Ironstein, do it right. In the long run you won't regret it. And put in plenty of 120v duplex outlets and you'll never have to run extension cords.

Have a great trip. I'd like to help but I'm on the east coast.