Pat Roy

What's better, a Ford or a Chevy? What do you like? What's important to you? I have two Hay Buddens (112# & 163#) because that's what I could find when I was shopping. I might have bought something else if I had found one. I use what I have, not perfect, but works for me.

So far I had pretty good succes with rubbing the edge of a piece of aluminum across one file. The other file is round and has very fine teeth. That technique didn't work well at all but now it is sitting in the vinegar. We'll see how that goes.

Thanks for the info Phil, I'm going that way. John B, that would undoubtedly work but there are several files and too many specks to pick, I'd go blind. If nothing works well enough, there's always new files.

I've tried a file card, it didn't do much. I'll try the vinegar.

I get my copper from the local lumber yard. It's only available in 16 ounce (approximately 16 gauge). It is flashing, and comes in a variety of widths, 6, 8, 10 and 12 inch at least. They sell it by the pound.

I've been doing some filing, on steel, copper and aluminum. The aluminum has created a problem; bits of the aluminum have become embeded in the file and I'm looking for a way to get the file clean. Any ideas?

I'd check with the propane supplier on what the local codes call for in the way of piping and fittings inside and out, burial depths and backfill material etc. Be safe.

I don't have chaps but I do generally wear a leather apron when forging. It's a simple thing, I wish it had a pocket that I could put marking and measuring tools into. I guess I could add that. It keeps me from burning holes in my clothes.

Dave, a question. Why do you use coil spring material for tongs?

On my first handle job I wittled and filed to get the perfect fit; it took a while. More recently I have developed the fine art of shaping my handles using the bench grinder for the job. I guess I'm lazy and I like the scent of burnt wood, but it is quick and effective.

Nothing to do exactly with melting copper, but I don't work around my hot shop with anything but high topped leather boots. Man made fabric running shoes, ooh, look out for a hot foot.

When I built my shop along with all the other excellent suggestions mentioned previously, I thought it important to have many outlets for hand power tools. I hate having extension cords to trip over. I installed outlets every 6 feet along the walls at a height that I don't have to bend over to plug the cords in. My forge is at one end of the building, in the darkest corner. The treadle hammer is nearby but towards the center. I have a work bench on one side for some of the cold work. The band saw, welding table and welder are on wheels, so they can go where needed. I have some material storage overhead and some in a corner where it doesn't interfere with operations. There is open space near the double doors for layout and assembly. Some how I have to work a part time paint booth into this. Shop is 20' X 24'. No matter what, you'll wish you'd done something different. Good luck.

Nice simple design Petere76. I have a couple projects going in the western mountains, I guess we're even.

Saturday I volunteered as a blacksmith demonstrator at Curran Homestead (a living history museum). I mostly talked with a lot of curious folks and did manage to make a few drive hooks. It was a good time and they fed me (although I'd rather eat at Wesley Chambers house; meatballs and chile relleno, yum). Sunday I worked in my own shop and worked on my repousse skills; designed and produced a couple bookmarks with a nice maple leaf at the top.

I've been using vinegar lately to clean up copper items. After a few hours, or overnight if I forget, the copper is nice and pink clean. I've also used it to clean rust and scale off steel to good effect. I keep a gallon in the shop and it is labelled as not being a food product, not that anyone would think bringing food into my shop is a good idea.

Phil, do you need practice making the bottle opener or using it? Your comment was vague.

Arean, I admire your tenacity. I've forged many a simple leaf but an oak leaf only once and I won't do that again. Lately I've been making a lot of leaves but from sheet stock which I cut with snips or a chisel depending on the material.

I guess I should get a shop dog.

I suspect you pay your instructors, I do and I never pay someone to be rude to me. I don't believe a "professional" should be snippy. Everyone might learn in different way and at different speeds. A good instructor will recognize that and adjust his presentation. Being a master smith doesn't insure one is a good instructor. Fiery, correct me if I misunderstood your comment on re-tempering a piece; if you tempered it soft, you can't just temper it again to a "harder" color without first hardening it again?

Scrapartoz, your pieces are just awesome. The government should build a national park around your art. They should be a national treasure, beautiful.

Backwoods Blacksmith, What you do with them is put them up for sale, of course after you post photos like you did.

Looks like pineapple twist done on threaded rod, right?

Nice! I like the leaves and tendrils.

I haven't bent any hollow piece without getting some collapse. I have not use the sand fill technique either. I will look forward to a report of your success.

Dave, I've only done a little repousse with a stake and raising hammer. How does the safety chain work on a treadle hammer in this kind of repousse operation? Perhaps I can adapt my treadle hammer.