Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

I have to agree with George after looking at the new pictures and enlarging the first one's. They are definitely not from the American Revolution or the war of 1812 as the muskets of that time period have a much greater drop to the stock and most were British Land pattern or French Charleville pattern. This shows pretty well what they looked like. Even the few American gun makers copied the style then. https://www.americanrevolutioninstitute.org/exhibition/a-revolution-in-arms/ The percussion ignition system came into popular common use in the mid 1800s 1830 if I remember right and a lot of flintlocks were converted to caps. However like George said those locks probably are not original flintlock unless the frizzen and frizzen spring screw holes were welded up and the flash pans ground off. It would have been costly for a gunsmith to do that, although the locks could have been replacements. It's easy to convert a flintlock barrel to percussion though. Drill and tap the flash hole and screw in the bolster, of course replace the cock with a hammer too. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

That price wasn't only right, it was a down right steal. Yes a cast iron pan should be clayed before lighting a fire in it to prevent it from cracking, if the pan is steel it's not a critical to clay it but should be to form a fire pot. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

The Loctite high temperature putty works very well. I used it to patch a crack in our propane furnace heat exchanger. It lasted about 5 years when the exchanger developed another crack in a different location and we had the furnace replaced. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus I usually use the end grain of a piece of 4X4 or 6X6 wood to use as a backing for all my punching like leather work and automotive gaskets. It helps in keeping the punches sharp.

Good to see you posting again Slag. I have used a couple of the hacks in the link but learned some new one's. Now if someone will come up with a good one to keep the pesky fruit Flies out of the trash can and kitchen in general, I would be eternally grateful. Thanks I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

The Edit function time is really short. If you go in right below your post and put what you want to edit, it will combine that post with your first one. It also has a time limit but not as short as the edit. Kinda weird if you ask me. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

They are not Harper's Ferry 1803 rifled muskets which had a much fancier butt stock. I have a replica flintlock 1803 and it's fun to shoot. Debi says hi and good to see you posting again. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Those muskets look like 1831 Springfield's or Prussian Potsdam's that are converted to percussion and sporterized. Nice finds none the less both were used in the ACW. Are they smooth bore or rifled? I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

I have made some from old fifty cent yard sale claw hammers for my gardening friends and they seem to really like them. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Welcome from the Ozark Mountains. That is some great information on a little known anvil maker, too bad they are no longer making anvils. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

If the price is right, I would say get it. Even if it isn't wrought iron, it could be mild or Bessemer (early) steel, which is always good to have on hand when forging stuff. Wrought iron is getting harder & harder to find nowadays. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Must be magic then to get burning paint fumes from a surface that has no paint on it. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Not if you do not paint the face working surfaces. BLO on the working services (face) will also give you fumes. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

That was going to be my suggestion, a sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus Semper Paratus

I must admit that Blubberhead is not one of my favorites, but it does invoke some thought at first glance. I just showed it to Debi and she immediately said "that's Moby-Dick the white whale". I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Welcome from the Ozark Mountains. In the first picture, it looks to me someone has welded a steel plate to the side from just back of the horn to the heel. It looks like a weld along the bottom where the plate meets the lower part above the feet. I'm thinking it's an old Vulcan that the hardened steel face plate became detached or ground away leaving the cast iron base to be worked hard causing the rather bad swale. That would explain the lack of a step at the front of the plate & rear of the horn also. It would also help to know where in the world you are located. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

If the earth was flat, we could just push people we didn't like off the edge. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

When that happens to me, I usually just make it a shorter knife. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

No places that I know of, about ten years ago I found an original Navy Cutlass on Craig's, list but the seller wanted $1000 for it and wouldn't budge, needless to say I didn't buy it. I used to see them on eBay for less, but most looked like forgeries or some claimed they were replicas. I did buy a replica Scottish Claymore great sword at the Scottish Games in Tulsa a long time ago. I gather the scabbards are not with the swords. I have had some success "cleaning" old blades using dawn dish washing soap on a damp clean rag then rinsing them to get any soap residue off. After drying the blades rub them down with Renaissance wax. I did that on a WWII Japanese Non com officers sword and it looked good without making it look new. If you wanted to go further use some oiled 0000 steel wool and lightly rub the blades until you get the finish you want, then wax them to protect them. That will usually leave them clean but not shiny new. You could also just use the steel wool on the Ricasso to bring out the writing. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Note: when I said Ames has been around, the family was importing cutlery in the Colonial period, sorry for the confusion. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Glad you & yours are doing fine and welcome to the rabbit hole of sword collecting. I think they are the M1833 model, Dragoon saber used extensively in the ACW so quite old and in very good shape. The words Made by/Ames Mfg. Co/Chicopee/Mass are enclosed within an unraveled scroll, and initials/US/date is stamped on the opposite side of the blade. This scroll mark is usually very weak, and often has been partially worn down by the scabbard—this is a feature that helps in authenticating the sword. Ames has been around since the AWI making swords, bayonets etc. https://www.americanswords.com/sword-identification.html I wouldn't remove the handles as the twisted wire wrapped leather is probably very fragile and it could fall apart. Ask me how I know. A lot of collectors will devalue the sword that has been cleaned up to look like new. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

Welcome from the Ozark mountains. Usually there is a plate on the motor itself, may be underneath or obscured by the mounting plates. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

It is a pinned topic in Gas Forges, a couple of posts down from Forges 101. There is a wealth of information in all the pinned topics of every section. For instance, if you get interested in making knives, you would go to Knife Making and read through the pinned topics first to get an idea about it. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

To fire ITC 100 that is used to coat the front or rear of the forge, set baffles/doors about an inch from the entrance and the dragons breath will fire it. The baffles/doors can be steel or bricks. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

The problem with smaller diameter easy outs is the tendency to snap off just like taps and I'm infamous for doing that, especially when working on old muzzleloader's I'm restoring. Usually Debi comes to the rescue with her ability to stay calm and not do any more harm. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus

I would start by soaking it in Kroil or a 50/50 mix of Dexron II ATF & Acetone, to cut any rust keeping it from turning. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus