Lou L

If you end up in court don't show your distaste for the scumbag thieves. That's what their lawyer will want. Just act all innocent and shocked and describe what you saw with innocence and honesty. Any hint of malice toward the perps will support their defense that they were targeted.

Notownkid, how often are you in Harwinton and when can I go see one of these talks? Even better, when can I get some classes from you? Yes, I fully intend to go to the meet in Mass. Still need to get that membership.

Wow, I hadn't thought of that possibility. The only wells I found in that area were of the stone-walled persuasion. Some people use strong magnets to fish for goodies in them but I've never tried it. I'd hate to yank out a hobo by his belt buckle!

To add to the collar idea:. Instead of the copper you could use a collar and weld a small steel placard to the collar (maybe a 2x6" rectangle). People like having a place to write the names of the plants with grease pens or markers. You could add an appropriate pen to the kit and it might increase the value. Nice work though.

I think that it shouldn't look too perfect or it would lose its character. In fact, I'd weld a large nut onto the wrench in the space between the "A" and the "I" in order to fill the space and add to the tool theme. Maybe even put one in the center of the "V" as well to balance it out. The imperfections create the feeling of "work in progress" which is really every tinkerer's mantra. I'm guessing that is what your client's father is. Heck, a slightly crooked letter would even work the way I see this piece. Exaggerating imperfections is the best way to hide them! Thanks for the idea, btw, I'm stealing it. I really like the effect caused by the ridges on the rebar. Not realizing it was rebar when I first saw the picture I thought to myself, "wow, nice craftsmanship making those uniform ridges on the letters! It must have been a pain to do...."

I really like the flow chart at the end. It's a pretty straightforward, step by step process to identify mystery metals. Unfortunately it requires an oxyacetylene torch to use it accurately and I don't have one. Still, I'm saving this one and printing up a copy to post in my forge once I get it built. Thanks!

Thanks! I found it. It's called the Red White and Blue Thrift Store in Waterbury. Not too far away!

The site was an old mill. The are was settled around 1652 and you can bet the mill was one of the first things they built. In New England at that time mills were the tools of expansion into new areas. The area became known for its white granite that was shipped to England and later became known for its ship building. You can find the decayed foundations for the port at the river's edge and follow the remnants of the cobbled road leading away from it right into the forest where it disappears. I spent hours trying to follow that road into the woods but couldn't pin down its location past 100 feet. It's amazing how Mother Nature does away with our machinations so effectively. It's a haunting place. You can hike through and find all the signs of what was once a town; but the river that once powered the mill is now just a long furrow that winds toward the CT River and the stone foundations are mostly buried. Then you look at an old map and you can find the names of the families who owned the homes that once stood there. The Mill was owned by the Sewell family

Thanks eseeman, that's exactly the lead I needed for guidance. I'll check out that spot and now have a few other possibilities as well. I've recently discovered that I have access to free coil springs and 300 pound leaf springs from security trucks. If I can add some great find to that I'll be quite pleased!

Thank you for the context! Not long ago that object bewildered me and now it just makes sense. Considering all the evidence of oxen in the woods (once farm fields) I am a bit surprised to find horse and buggy tack. That area was really interesting..

Cursturgeon....Sturmudegeon?

The family vacation to Florida (which I'm totally against because Disney is a tourist trap nightmare I despise) won't happen until the three year old is large enough to get onto rides. Can you hear my wife's voice? I have occassionally seen post vices near me in Craiglist but they are usually missing parts or overpriced IMO. I'm going to try looking for one whose owner is indifferent and /or didn't even think about selling it. They are most definitely around here. I just need to be patient.

Don't know how I missed these last posts! I'm out of fish jokes....

The site I was detecting is not a historical site and is not protected. The history of the site has long ago been preserved and, currently, it is an area set aside for hiking. A railway was built right through the center of the location in the late 19th century and, in recent times, much of the surrounding location was paved over by a large corporation. The site I detected on had long ago been studied and left for public consumption. Only the graveyard remains untouched and protected and I certainly wouldn't go there. The laws for detecting around historical areas are well established here and I was not breaking them. In fact, it is quite challenging to do the research and find sites that have been left to time and are not protected. I have spent two years trying to track the movement of Rochambeau's French army through my state but every site where they camped is either protected or has been covered by concrete. If I manage to find artifacts from their passing in a strange location you can be certain that I will document what I find and where and inform the historical society.

By thrift stores do you mean pawn shops or used tool stores? We had an amazing used tool store nearby that closed recently. I've been looking for other places that may have the things I may want but they are hard to find.

I usually only metal detect around foundations and walls I find in the woods. It may be inaccurate but I date the stuff I find by the age of the trees I find growing in the center of the foundations or through the walls. When I find a 200 year old oak in the middle of what was once a barn or house then I know there have likely been at least 250 years of disuse. Every time I approach one of these scenarios I know I will have to work through a layer of nails that held the long rotted wood in place. I can fine tune my detector to ignore the iron but then I miss other iron I may want....so every nail in an area has to come up! Worse, rusty nails can get a "halo" effect and ping like they are silver. That drives me mad. I can now tell the difference but curiosity (and the deep seated hope that it isn't a nail THIS TIME) leads me to dig it up. There are some go to tricks though. Always check under the stone at the doorway because people would place a coin there. Also, search for a depression in the ground nearby, it was likely the outhouse. Swing your detector from the doorway and follow a logical path the the outhouse. Almost guaranteed button finding technique. In a way it allows you to connect to that person who was rushing to the bathroom and trying to get their pants unbuttoned over 200 years ago! An aside: Denis Frechette (has a great YouTube channel DF in the Shop) has recently made a video asking for help collecting images of the craftsmanship of blacksmiths. I suggested to him that an online forum where people can upload their images and comment on the location and possible age would be really cool. Any ideas on a digital forum that would allow a group of people to build a catalogue like this and maybe allow blacksmiths to comment? IFI wouldn't work because images get deleted after a while. I'm thinking of a permanent database, like an interactive Internet book. It would be a great reference and would give purpose to the stuff we dig up.

I love this discussion. I do historically focused metal detection as well. I usually end up finding loads of old blacksmiths nails and, while I should be excited by them, I really loathe them deep down in my soul. I've definitely found some good stuff and feel I could guarantee finding something good on your property. My most impressive find was a silver Barber dime at nine inches deep. It was a challenge! i know it is a bit farm for you but there is a blacksmith in Goshen, CT who does historical iron work exactly in your wheelhouse. I think it's called "The Village Blacksmith". I haven't been there but I have heard he is good. Thomas, I used to fight sword and board in the SCA. It was a while back but, being quite tall, I managed to hit a few knights in the back with my scorpion wrap. They always ended up ringing my bell...but I scared them for sure!

Thomas, I'm considering buying a copy of Early American Wrought Iron (I found it reprinted for $76) but, being an somewhat of a tech nerd, I've decided to find digital copies of it since it is no longer protected by copyright. So far I haven't found it but my search was not lengthy. I did find s similar resource from the Williamsburg Blacksmiths that has some good information at http://www.williamsburgblacksmiths.com/Catalog/files/inc/dcea64f866.pdf. I imagine it isn't shocking news for the regulars here but it is new to me and it may serve Steamboat well since he is in New England. Welcome Steamboat, I'm new here as well and find it a welcoming place. Lou

The threads aren't long enough for that. I'm definitely not looking forward to the upsetting job. I've been avoiding it because I don't have a swage nor a striker. I have my eye on a ten inch wide by eight inch high cylinder from my steel supplier. I may even have them machine it a bit for me. I need a way to hold the work so I can get at it without hot steel flying.

You need to take me shopping....

That's great vision. I would have walked past it. It looks like you can make your post vise AND a 2x72 grinder with the bones of that thing.

Yeah, I was aware that coating it would be a necessity...I was just mourning the loss. I also held on to the minor hope that someone here would jump in and give a quick course in some amazing method of finishing and protecting steel from the elements using alchemy or some other mysterious art!

I know it is not considered correct but using anthracite is an option for you if you are willing to deal with the challenges it poses. First, it needs loads of constant air. The air has to be variable because it has to start easy to get the paper, wood, charcoal or whatever going without burning out before the darned anthracite gets started. If you have the air control covered then you should try it out. It burns hot and makes minimal smoke or stink. I think it smells sweet when fresh coal is put on the fire and, to be honest, sometimes I shovel new stuff on top of my hot fire just because I love the crackle as it releases water and the awesome smell. My forge burns clean and hot and the only way my neighbors know I'm forging is that they hear the ring of my anvil. If you use bituminous prepare for smoke, confused neighbors and firemen. I have some bituminous and will warn my neighbors in advance when I use it but I stick with anthracite because it is easier to get and won't attract attention from neighbor's outside of my circle. Because anthracite is cheap I sincerely believe you should buy a bag of it and give it a try (assuming you have a constant source of air) because your neighbor's will not notice it. Either way, enjoy! I just had a great day of smashing hot metal so it's all good.

I would get a bearing and do the rebound test or at least tap them both lightly all around with a hammer to get an idea of the different tones. I like the squat, thick anvil myself but that is because it is what I'm used to (limited experience but enough to to know my anvil pretty well). Some of the curmudgeons will likely say, "well, that depends on what YOU intend to do for work with the anvil!" ......and they will have been correct. A heavier anvil can support heavier work, upsetting big chunks of steel, etc... Both seem to have nice edges based on the pictures. You know what, it just hit me. You are trying to be fiscally responsible. In keeping with that concept why don't you protect your investment by using both for a while and then selling the one that, after a number of sessions, you find yourself going to less. That's what I'd do. Plus you will have significantly added to your body of knowledge on the use of different anvils (investment #2). Following my blinding logic, you can't afford to not use both for a while. Lou

It is gorgeous as it is. It seems a shame to cover that raw beauty. I hope the final finish complements the rugged (almost steampunk) aesthetic. Amazing work either way and I imagine your client is well pleased.