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I Forge Iron

Lou L

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Everything posted by Lou L

  1. I had considered charcoal but the cost seemed high. The only good stuff I can find is sold for grilling and is expensive. I was putting serious thought into making my own charcoal retort but wanted to get forging first. The forge is already lined with sand and ash so reshaping the fire "pot" wouldn't be too hard I think. I chose this forge concept partly because it is supposed to be flexible with the fuels you use and then promptly forgot that ninjas other fuel options. Thanks for getting me out of the box.
  2. I'm not sure why but, after many months of reading and talking to blacksmiths I know I decided to make a side blast forge for my first forge. I was going to make a propane forge out of an old propane canister but decided I wanted to go with coal because I wanted to go "old school" plus I wouldn't have to buy all the metal working tools up front (welder, grinder, etc..). Well, I ended up having to buy all that stuff anyway. You know what they say about the best laid plans... I was able to scrounge most of the materials because I have access to the scraps from a fencing company (unfortunately most of his scraps are galvanized) so I only spent about $90 for materials on this forge. I refuse to count the cost of the tools as cost for the forge...just because. Anyway, here it is: The base was a scrounged scrap storage rack from the fencing company as was the 1/8 plate steel that are only clamped on to the sides. I wanted them removable just in case. The design is based on what I have read from books and online but it was completely based upon the materials I was able to get. I'd say the biggest limitation to the build was my ability (or really lack of ability) to stick weld. I spent the $90 on the 1/8" plate steel for the bottom of the forge and the bosh in the back. The tuyere is a 1 5/8" pipe jacketed by the 3/16" square tube seen here. The biggest design flaw I have noticed so far is the size of the air outlet. It is now about 3/4" but I think the size differential is causing a pressure drop and has made air a challenge. Right now I have an old dirt devil vacuum that is way too strong (I use it to establish the size of the fire) and a bathroom vent fan that struggles to overcome the pressure drop (I use it to maintain the fire once it is strong). Switching air sources is tedious and I'm looking for a quiet but stronger option. From this view you can see the bosh. The pipe runs through and out the back. Welding this up was a serious challenge and I ended up deciding to double down and use some high temp silicone sealant as insurance. I had a few small leaks and didn't feel like chasing them with my welder for days. According to everything I have read I should not have put the wall of the bosh right next to the fire but, so far I have run this thing for over six hours and not reached boiling temps with the water tank (it holds about 20 gallons I think). The shape and size was totally based upon the materials I was able to get cheaply. I could have paid to have plate steel cut to my dimensions but I'm too cheap. Here you can see the drain I installed along with copious amounts of insurance caulk! The duct tape is for fitting the pipe with the pvc elbow I use as an adapter for my Frankenstein air system. Please feel free to laugh at my welds. I'm still learning how to use this thing efficiently but it sure can create a super hot fire. Right now I can't get the control of the heat and have quiet at the same time. I hate running the loud dirt devil vacuum and would love any ideas for a more quiet option. Currently I'm using anthracite because it is the only thing available to me. Plus, I live in suburbia in an uptight town and fear getting shut down if I produce too much smoke. Problem is, anthracite is really picky about needing constant and consistent air. After reading some here on IFI I'm thinking about using two fire bricks to shape my fire better but, aside from that, I would love more feedback and ideas on how to improve my setup. Thanks in advance, Lou
  3. It's called Logan Steel in Meriden, CT. They have a huge space called the Bargain Barn. Almost any size material you can imagine for $1/pound. Be sure to look up their new location on their website. They just moved to a bigger location and their new address isn't updated in navigation apps. Your leaf-bolt is my goal! Thanks for the inspiration. Those a490 structural bolts are higher carbon and are not allowed to be galvanized for some engineering reasons (tensile strength loss due to the process). The a325 bolts can be galvanized. I'm planning on grinding off the threads and trying to make a hardy tool. When I fail I will try it again.
  4. Smoothbore, we aren't used to deals here in CT. This is a pay to breathe state! Rockstar, thanks for the ideas. I was torn between grinding the threads and trying to find a way to use them. I figured that I would try making the hot cut hardy out of this material but not quench it. If it turns out too hard I can always try making small hatchets or punches and chisels out of it. (In the dream world in which I already have those skills.) My hardy hole is 1" (150 pound Isaac Hill). I was thinking I could upset the shank as you said but wasn't sure I could do it without marring the threads. Fortunately I grabbed two nuts to fit the bolts because your ideas was perfect. Now you,have me trying to figure out how to use one of those bolts as a lock down mechanism for any other tooling I make. I'm thinking I could weld tooling to 1/4 inch plate and lock it down with the head of the bolt. All pipe dreams aside, am I crazy for thinking I might have a shot of flattening the bolt head to create the cutoff portion of the tool?
  5. There is a great steel supplier near me that has a "bargain barn" in which you can find all manner and shape of mostly mild steels. The steel is $1 per pound and it is a tong maker's fantasy. I wandered through the place for an hour looking for medium carbon steel and found vats of structural bolts ($2.50/lb) both ASTM a325 and a490. Turns out the a490 are medium carbon and are heat treated and tempered and are very hard and tough. I found a discussion between metallurgists online who claimed they were commonly made with 4140 but one could never be certain. I figured it would be worth it to try using them to make a hardy cutter and other tools. The bolts are 7" long by 1" thick. I grabbed 7 of them for $25. Does anyone have experience using these? How would one approach making a Brazeal style hot cut with one of these? Should I grind off the threads? I have already annealed the one pictured twice and will do it again today.
  6. Thanks for the fast reply. Apologies for the typos. "Blacksmith work" not "works" was my intention. I blame the iPad that seems to think it knows what I mean to say! Good point about my intentions. I plan on doing ornamental stuff. I'm working on leaves with the ultimate goal of making plant themed decorative items like wine bottle racks and trivets. However, I have a load of tools to make and so much to learn along the way before I get there. I guess the best thing to domes to use it until I realize I need something else. Deep down, of course, I'm hoping it is a rare collector's item since it doesn't even exist in any database of Chas Parker vises. I guess we all harbor dreams of big scores at the flea market. Great idea about making the height adjustable, thanks for that. Lou
  7. Howdy, I'm new to the forum. Only recently in the past months rekindled my blacksmithing passion after falling in love with it at my friends farm many years ago. I started collecting equipment and found this Chas Parker vise at a flea market. I got it and a cross peen hammer for $40! Anyway, I got home and tried to look up the vise mainly to figure out how much of a deal I got. Turns out I couldn't find any info. I finally found an ad for a number 44 in a Google books copy of a machinists magazine from 1908 I think. It is a filers vise...whatever that is. It has a 4" jaw and weighs about 38 pounds. Does anyone know anything about this vise and is it large enough for blacksmith works if mounted well to a heavy work bench? Thanks for any info, Lou
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