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This trailer was originally built in 1976.. Paid 400 for it 8 years ago and it then lived outside in the back field for those 8 years.. Neglect.. Nah.. Just miss understood.. LOL.. She took on a new life and neglect isn't in the cards any longer.. She's very spiffy now and as long as I continue to do demos she'll get paint and upkeep..

The only way to leave it as forged perfect is to use perfectly smooth tooling and then do an acid bath and then for the maximum protection, passivization.. smoothness of the surface is the key to rust resistance in stainless.. smoothness at a microscopic level and this is where passivization shines.. Nearly all Stainless steel processed is passivized as the last finish process.. Like i said before it's been years since I looked into it and I used a spacial compound for cleaning food grade stainless steel weldaments.. It was really bad stuff.. you can try high strength vinegar to get rid of the scale.. It will be a slow process but it could offer decent results but at some point you will still need to polish it.. This is where having a passivization tank can make a world of difference..

Ideally all the scale needs to be removed.. if you are happy with the finish the scotch Brite leaves then good enough... passivation is used primarily on smoother finished items to remove the iron carbon matrix and leave a chromium surface exposed. In other words it's not usually used on roughly finished items.. only polished to highly polished.. So the question becomes how finely finished do you want it to be? It's been a long time but there are products sold that will remove the scaled surface and leaves a matt under layer perfect for polishing.

You are correct.. any carbon steels will transfer.. chemical passivation i's the easy way to do it but you can also grind then use buffing wheels with fine abrasives.. I've done stainless steel weldaments and as long as you get all the big cracks off and give it a full polish it will take a long time for it to rust..

Lovely lines.. Well done.. My Pleasure my Friend.. It's one of the main reasons I got back involved.. Lots of mighty fine smiths coming up now.. It's great to see..

next "How to" series will be on No weld tong making and currently in filming and editing.. here are Lip or Drop Lip tongs.. started out with 3/8"X1" there will be 4 to the series I think at this point..

Very nice.. Did you punch the legs and ring with square holes or round? Also be sure to keep in mind the handle position and handle weight need to be taken into consideration when mounted on the web between feet as this can make the trivet side heavy and slightly unstable, this can be offset with putting the handle in line with a leg/foot or make the opposite leg/foot a little heavier for proper balance.. Heart trivets usually plenty of weight at the offset side.. Otherwise you nailed it.. Excellent work on all your projects.. Really making me want to be a better smith myself.. One of the highest compliments I know how to give.. The level of work you are producing is awesome.. Congrats to you Sir.. I know there is a love for blacksmithing as your dedication to learning and practice says it all..

That Brooks is a beautiful anvil.. with a mighty fine stand to boot.. How big is the hardie hole?

it's great seeing everybody's work and skill set progressing so quickly.. Inspirational it is.. I'm feeling like such a slacker.. You guys are rockin it..

In the older days in the USA a good majority of the nails produced were as a cottage industry at piece work with Woman and children making a good majority of them.. They actually had a guy (Nail Monger) who would come around and supply you with a nail makers anvil with cutoff and a supply of materials.. the people would lease/rent this from the guy (I'm sure at a hefty price) and he would then pay them after the rental lease fee and leave more raw stock.. When in good forging shape a 10 penny 1.5" -2" length shank, 1/8" shank thickness takes a full minute to forge and head.. I used to run 3 to 4 bars at a time.. 1 heat per nail... Eventually you get good enough What really gets forgotten about nail making is they used to be made from wrought iron and since they were forged down into a small size the wrought was pretty well refined by the time it got to size.. so a a lot of the heading operations could be carried out in the black heat stage.. the majority of nails forged from wrought have the typical separation of the fibers in the heads on the edges unless the nail heads were swedged like slate nails, tacks, brads, horse shoe, oxen shoes, etc, etc.. There was of course a whole nail making industry in the UK, but they were a costly import and I think that is why the cottage industry took hold.. Eventually Benjamin Franklin produced and Iron slitting mill and this lowered the cost slightly as sheet could be cut into strips... Today, most modern hobbiest smiths don't really realize just how mundane the old blacksmiths job really was.. Most smiths in Rural new England (funny to think Ohio was the wild west) were part time unless they lived in larger industrial towns or were at a cross roads with lots of traffic and these guys would specialize in Farrier work and wagon repair as well as the other little jobs that came in.. When I was producing hardware in sets of 10 or more it really just became a grind.. Same thing over and over and over again. (this is how one gets good though). and then figure that for each thumblatch with escutcheon plates was 12 nails each.. 120 per order with 2 different sizes usually about 3/16 difference between latch and back group and length depending on door thickness. Being a full time smith like this takes some dedication to the craft because it's not a glorious profession and the only person who knows the quality of wears you are producing is the smith him/herself.. What I have seen happen is there are a lot of people who will use to good advantage spring swages, hardie swages etc, etc, in order to get to a consistent product in a fairly short order.. I understand this from a time stand point.. But being a purist at heart still leads me back to grunting it out at the anvil until it is mastered 100%.. At that point all the contraptions are no longer needed as it is just as fast to not need thees other things to produce what can be done with hammer and anvil... By the way.. back in my youth, I tried all sorts of schemes to make things quicker or better and since I didn't have anybody to tell me "No" that is foolish I tried it all.. found I was wasting a lot of time building machines and tooling only later to throw them into scrap.. The only tool that I found sped up any kind of production was a power hammer for the type of work I was doing and it saved a lot of yelling at the sledgers.. Which in some situations still work better than a power hammer.. there is a ton of interesting thoughts with people putting a lot of their thoughts into production.. More power to them.. This is going to sound corny... I am a blacksmith with a desire to forge metal by hand.. Using a power hammer can increase production and make it so I am not killing myself on larger sized stock.. This that said, i'd rather forge 99% of what I make to size by hand than to rely on a contraption to only save a few seconds at the anvil.. For people who embrace technology or contraptions they are at a different level.. for me it's anvil, hammer, vise and forge that I want to be at home with.. I'm really old though and long for a past live which never existed..

Great idea.. Much simpler than the shaker screen I had..

Yup still have crown.. Up till this past summer all the bushings and pivots were worn and the trailer still pulled decent.. Once I replaced everything with Greaseable fittings and bronze bushings and new center pivots I was amazed at just how nicely it tow's.. And now it doesn't even make a sound going over the bumps..

When you say loaded.. Do you mean like my trailer? Or do you mean loaded like stacked in? Any scale on the side of the road here has State police or DOT people watching them.... i have personal plates on everything so I can avoid the inspections which occur here at every weigh station open.. Unless you have passenger plates.. I keep all my stuff up to par, but a bad bulb, or any regulation that you do not adhere to can get you huge fines and even having your equipment towed or confiscated.. Also once you move up to commercial plates you have to keep a log book...

I was feeling the same way as you.. I added up most the equipment and even if it goes 2000 or even 4000lbs I don't know where the other 5800lbs would come from.. 2630lbs is what I got for the equipment, bar stock...

Not really I mean I'm not a heavy footed driver when towing but 64sq ft of sail makes a little difference.. . I do feel this huge air brake I'm pulling.. anything over 60mph and the shear sq footage of the front will slow you if there is a head wind or you let off the throttle even going down hill.. Under 60 and it pulls really nice.. tracks straight.. I have since installed all new greaseable bronze bushings and new pivots... It pulls like a champ.. Thats how I had it weighed.. At a gravel pit.... I can't confirm it but again I think the weights might have gotten mixed up.. If someone wanted to figure out all the matieral weights and then added all the equipment together it would be close.. LOL

I had it weighed.. the person doing it swore it was correct but I doubt it is.. 16,600 combined weight of truck and trailer.. 6800 truck and 9800 trailer... I don't think it's right because the truck is a 96 F250 7.3L Auto with long cab and long bed with all the shoeing equipment in it.. GVW on the sticker is 9800lbs and it has a Dana 60 front vs TTB.. The anvil 275, stand 290,, vise 230, forge 225, HC box 275, bar stock 600lbs, tongs 150lbs, hammers 100lbs, shear 35lbs.. coal 100lbs.. 4 sheets of 18G 4X10', 2 18G 4X8' sheets. 40ft of 3" heavy channel, 40ft of 1/8'x 1" sq tube. 80ftx 0.062X1"sq tube, 50ft of 1/8"X1"X3" tube, Fenders are 1/8" X24"X 8ft X2, Stack is 100lbs, Work bench I figure is about 200lbs and blower 80lbs... Water tank 300lbs.. 30ft of 1/2" black iron water pipe.. Jacks 50lbs.. The springs in the trailer don't even take a sag and have plenty of arc left in them when on the ground... if someone wanted to figure it out all the materials and equipment weights are there..

Answers are there for people who want them not for people who need them...... Hoof imbalance and distortion plays out in nearly every horse I have ever seen in domestication... It's a matter of addressing these problems in a clear and concise way that puts the horses feet into a position to heal themselves and this is what the "Barefoot hoof movement " is striving for George vs just following what you were taught and then using any tidbit of information you can find produced by traditional farriers whether they use their own money or not sadly this is the reason things don't change.. Innovation starts with people looking for answers in a place that no one else dared look despite critics or naysayers.. I used to run barefoot myself back in the 90s and every body would tell me... Oh you going to ruin your feet.. LOL.. You are so stupid to run barefoot.. Guess what running barefoot or with open 5 separate toed shoes is promoted now.. Anyhow, if you believe you are offering the most up to date professional service and you are comfortable and proud of your work and your customers are happy than that is all that matters..

If the hoof is distorted away from the coffin bone and not paralel , the shoe ideally should be placed or set back to where the hoof wall would be if there was no distortion.. Filing off the toe to paper thin to make it look better does nothing to address the toe distortion.. Nearly all farrier organizations don't see distortions as a problem to be fixed.. Same with flares.. Flares on a well trimmed horse are there because of imbalance so if the horse continues to have a flare after a few trimmings or shoeing s it's because of the lack of hoof balance.. A flare on a well trimmed foot is because of a lack of pressure.. IE non pressure bearing.. Removing this flare or toe distortion to make it look nice is conventional farrier work.. I totally disagree with this practice.. If you balance the hoof for proper weight bearing the flares will disappear all on their own.. Every video, and every farrier I have ever seen work files back the flares so it looks better vs function.. Again, the whole process could be better and if more people understood why these problems exist and worked towards fixing them... functional vs fixed and functional is the problem I have with conventional farrier teaching and works.... I was there I drank the cool aid and was a conventional horse shoer for years before I started looking for answers...

See here is the thing.. We feel the same way.. I was a cold shoer and still am when the call arises... As it was explained to me and it made perfect sense.. If you can level a horses foot absolutely flat, then you should be able to flatten a shoe absolutely flat and then there is no reason for burning the shoe into the foot which just destroys the keratin and basically cooks the tissues around it... the hoof has a lot of moisture in it.. You can see it if the foot is on the mat and it ,moves.. There is a wet spot.. Water boils and turns to steam.. Anyhow I'm with you.. And with you also.. Sole support becomes or is the most important part of the function of the hoof.. This does not mean fitting the shoe tight to the sole as the sole is designed for pressure give and take and not constant pressure like when a shoe is applied with not enough clearance.. I used to make a ton of shoes and at some point will make a few how to's on it.. I to back in the day before I switched over to barefoot would forge out primarily from stock shoes (keggers) and forge weld on or make from scratch but also open toe egg or heart bar shoes.. I like a rimmed shoe as long as there is plenty of break over.. In other words I like a training plate vs a race plate... I use Eventer shoes now and are the only ones I keep in stock up to size 4... I also like a huge radius on the inside web so there i no chance of sole contact.. The relieving of sole hoof material or IE not over thinning the sole because of over trimming the hoof wall is also very important..

Do you want to be?

@Charles R. Stevens See here is the thing.. Most farrier types think I started out as a barefoot zealot which is not true at all.. I was a shoeing farrier and even today I shoe some horses if it is absolutely required by the owner.. Today it's a process but will turn down new customers if they want shoes for the sake of shoes... Ideally as long as it's not complete and udder jibberous I always listen with an open mind., sadly for me internet conversations can be way to abstract. but there are tidbits of information everywhere and truth is true no matter what you throw at it.. No gray matter in truth.. It is or isn't.. No maybe or could be, or would be.. Simply is... You and I would get along just fine either at the forge or out shoeing horses.. Like minds and all.... It's all about the horse.. not politics or hearsay.. I dislike speaking or demonstrating in public but I have been know a time or to to jump up and set a person in the right direction when needed..

Ill be looking forwards to it.. .:) Nope the rest of the horses life which is usually much longer with no shoes.. This particular issue or topic has been beatin to death on here " Vs for vs against" vs Debunking barefoot vs shoes.. etc, etc.. I'm for it.. All traditionally trained Farriers are against.. At this point I no longer discuss it with traditionally trained farriers as it's 99% a waste of my time.. Needless to say but its a hot topic..

i can't agree with this one.. I certainly satisfy both categories but haven't seen a higher power smiling when it comes to either of those.. Now the barefoot horse care.. That just continues to grow and feel both good about the job done, and the finial results..

There is a guy who resharpens them and he is reasonably priced.. I don't have his information but I have seen his work which is top notch.. He labels the no good ones with red handles and the files I have tried that he has redone cut nicely just about like new..

couple of romantics..