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beslagsmed - nice set of shoes.. Only shoes I can see missing are a stifle shoe, grass tips and full swage alum training plates.. All yours? Nice shop..

Foundryman - Bummer for me on your location.. I was interested in having an anvil poured.. Shipping would kill the project.. Thanks for the extra info.. Nicely done and the contrast is excellent between layers.. Congrats.. I like the looks of loose wrought iron.. Made a skull pommel cap out of the wrought and it ended being over refined with all the work I did on it.. Not one striation in it even with a 3hr acid soak.. I was bummed.. Looking forwards to the finished product..

Foundryman - Yes nice indeed. What did you end up with for spine thickness? What was your materials.. Caught the O1.. . As for location, London, England? Lots of London's out there, even in USA..

It was the MFA in Boston.. I find early tools to be very interesting and probably why I remember the tube.. Really I find anything including hand labor to be interesting all throughout time including today.. But, find I like to be physically engaged with doing vs looking or reading about it.. Nice you have found interest in the history.. It can be very much fun to fantasize about things were done.. I still romanticize about how clean and simple things used to be..

JHCC - Its funny to think that way, but see it totally.. Back in the day 30 years ago.. there were a lot of blacksmithing tools that used to come up for auction.. At that point I was all book smart and had worked at a lot of different facets of the General blacksmithing quota.. Wagons, hardware, tools etc, etc and it seemed there weren't a lot of people interested in Farm or agricultural blacksmithing.. Seems a lot of it was based on fancy ironwork and even really fancy hardware.. Anyhow it was a unique perspective as some of the guys at the auctions would say.. What is that or what is this.. And I actually knew because of the type of work I was doing.. I have axe and hammer making tongs which were pretty rare even back then.. My point is.. Unless you know a person using the tools or know how to use the tools it become speculation, until the methods have been proven..

Again I understand the heat transfer thing.. But please just take a 3 or 4 ft long pipe and heat the end till it's red.. Your hands and or mouth will be fine at the other end.. Where the problem comes in is if you angle the pipe upwards so there is a draft created pulling the hot flame and gases into the pipe.. I actually did a lot of experimenting when I was a child and learned just holding my thumb over the pipes opening was enough to keep the heat or draft from going up the pipe.. I remember the pipe clearly as well as other glass items in the cases.. Mostly stamped or formed.. But then again as with all this stuff my memory is not what it used to be and could have easily gotten information mixed up.. Dates and such used to be very important to me and as I have matured the past occurrence or time frame has become less important as the only time there is,, Is now.. 2000 years from now they will be saying the same thing about us and will be wondering why there is such a mix of extinct technology but that forged hinge still works..

Neat video.. In a lot of the older homes here the windows of smaller sizes were the spun/blown glass but it was just knocked off so they have the center still attached and not fully flattened like in the video.. Don't see that much anymore since all the updated windows and such.. Only place i have seen that kind of glass is in/on old historic buildings like at OSV, sturbridge, ma. Or Salem cross Inn in West Brookfield, MA..

@Marc1 I used to leave my apron on the anvil and this worked pretty well for a little moisture in the air. In the trailer when it goes from cold to warmer and humid there will be a film of water on everything with a micro rain storm. It is after all basically a big metal tub.. Fluidfilm is a product here which is a lanolin spray.. The wd40 is cheap and it does work well.. I can leave the anvil for weeks to months with no rusting.. I've tried canvas in the past and eventually it absorbs the water and then will rust to the anvil as well.. I was using heavy old fashioned canvas for tents and such..

@JustAnotherViking great looking doors.. Looking forwards to the finished product.. @JHCC Nice hammer.. What did you end up with for weight?

It was about 8 or 10 years ago it was the person who they removed from the Egyptian history.. While I would agree conductivity would be a problem with a short pipe.. No matter how hot you got the end of a copper pipe 4ft long it won't transfer that far unless the wall thickness it great enough that some cooling source is not available.. From what I understand the furnaces used to work the older glass was fairly small compared to todays gas driven units.. you can test this with a simple copper water pipe.. It won't transfer heat that far back..

WD40 is what I use in the trailer.. It's the only thing that is reasonably cheap and easy to apply.. The anvil needs to be coated after every session..

i don't remember where I had seen it nor do I remember what the time frame was.. But I do distinctly remember seeing a copper glass blowing pipe nearly 5ft long. I had seen it in person, again I can't remember where.. I fuzzidly remember it might have been at a museum on Early Egyptian tools..

inspirational and tiring at the same time.. Well done..

Proud moment.. congrats..

ausfire - In my mind you are the Man.. No smoke stack which means the smoke, soot and ash just fall all over the place.. You did a great job cleaning up.. I personally would rather take a punch to the face than work with no stack.. Unless working with charcoal.. Then it doesn't matter.. But soft coal.. Uhggg.. During public demos I will turn my back to the crowd when forge welding as then my apron will shield any spatter that is heading their way.. During blacksmithing meets I don't but any demos outside professional realms I do.. I now have plexi glass drop downs in the demo trailer as something flying off into the crowd is never a good thing and over the 30+ years I have seen many a by stander get hit with slag and other things..

No problem at all @DaveF... I've worked in the world long enough in tough trades to find no offense in your comment.. Some could say, " It's a badge of honor".. I really don't take offense at all and it just rolls off.. I'm neither petite, nor small boned and have worked with my hands for 40 years so I have mits for hands also.. Just broke a knuckle 3weeks ago so the hand or knuckles are even bigger now.. Once enough of the videos are watched most usually figure it out.. LOL.. Of course the nail paint may confuse a few and it just raises more interesting conversations.. Please enjoy the videos and please post up any questions you may have.. I am more than willing to help.. @Shady McGrady Thanks for clarifying..

Are you able to get some head throw? In other words you get some slap/snap in the head or is it directly linked to the foot treadle? (solid connection)...

JHCC - you don't have to go to the gym to get your legs in shape anymore.. Hammer looks good... I've got my foot hammer in the planning stage so I'll be joining you in the not to distant future..

Late to the party, but hey I never show up on time.. I never make tongs out of anything but wrought iron or mild steels.. for general use wrought and HR I prefer and for stronger tongs I use Cold rolled as it offers or at least seems to offer a little more strength vs Hot rolled.. I have no problem thowing hot tongs into the water bucket from even an orange heat.. Sometimes with difficultly shaped pieces or smaller pieces when forge welding, the tongs end up getting right up there in temps and once done with the tongs can still be at orange heat when they go in the tub.. I have tongs that are 30 years old and still like the day I made them.. Any of the tongs which are made from medium carbon or better have not faired so well.. I experimented back in the 90's.. I stopped the practice of making any tongs except scroll tongs out of tools steels just for the reasons mentioned above.. Scroll tongs and/or collar tongs don't get used when orange hot so they last for ever as they go into the tub only when cool enough.. I have maybe 15 pairs of wrought iron tongs and the wrought iron tongs have to be made heavier/thicker than the mild steel (1018 CR or HR) tongs for the same work load..

Bob From Ball And Chain Just Got Back From Vacation.. if you get no response pm me and I'll get you his info..

Morrel metal smiths Colrain, ma Ball and chain forge Portsmouth, Me There is a new batch fresh from the foundry.. I know Bob from bandc has them but not sure of delivery anywhere else...

@Lou L these to finish that billet?

Mark @littleblacksmith swings a mighty fine hammer.. i love seeing someone like him in action..

Air trapped either in the weld or under the object and between the anvil face.. Congrats.. that is a great start.. Not to belittle you but more from a historical reference.. anybody can forge weld and anybody can forge weld when it's the first clean weld.... Where the chaf gets separated from the wheat is with the next welding attempts. If you don't clean and prep properly on the second welds then the failure rate will be pretty high.. This is where the domain of experience comes in as then you know what to look for without all the hubbub of removing all the scale and flux to start with totally clean materials.. There are some steps that would help.. files are tough to weld unless you remove all the teeth.. each tooth is a chance for inclusions.. I'll post a picture of a rasp billet I started.. later.. you can see why it can become a problem if not addressed..

@c.baum Done properly they are very strong.. Not properly and you might get 1 use out of them.. I personally don't make tongs with either of the slitting methods. .I'm to lazy.. it can be a valid method though and good to know.. I can forge a set of tongs and weld the handles on in 45min start to finish.. I get ready to take a nap by the time I get the cold chisel out to finish marking them.. While the process in an of it's self is a neat one to undertake as it's a great skill set to acquire.. The whole reason I have done this series or really any of the last 4 videos is for people who don't forge weld.. Next video is on Non welded heart trivet (in this video I use the tongs made in this video they work great).. There are so many videos on tong making now.. In fact there are so many videos on making so many things now that in some regards the videos I am producing are behind the times.. But, there are not a lot of videos with the information I have been trying to present or at least not the skill sets presented.. The videos are certainly not entertaining so it becomes just learning a new or different skill.. Thanks for taking the time to reply..