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just think...with that arch hammer you could forge a bell dinger like in this vid.. YouTube - HERSTELLUNG KLÖPPEL GOSSAU 1 2nd vid has a beche in it..

Hi lets just say unless your a big mine or mine contractor, that business with sudbury should be avoided at alllllllllll costs.. :mad: for example... i just moved back to the north from halifax ( very reluctantly:( and i brought some reciepts of my steel purchases from a halifax fastenal..... went into the sudbury fastenal and asked for a quote..... got a price 20% higher than halifax..... slapped my reciept down and asked why they are gouging... the manager bumbled with words... played with the computer a little... went into the office and came back..... then said if i deal with them as a business that he'd give me 15% off... - before i left halifax i asked the fastenal manager there about pricing... he said all the prices in the stores should all be the same across canada... oh reeeeeally my point being that up north, you really have to watch who you deal with... i could go on and on... .. i've lived most of my life in sudbury, and i have nothing good to say about it ( except that i like the university !) a good source of W1 is important to me... and those links are a big help thanks again Greg

Hi thank you for the offer but i don't think i'll be going south till the fall sometime.. those sources look to be very good.. .. its a real struggle to get any kind of decent steel up north here from local sources ( without getting gouged badly ) 26 bucks per 1 inch round of W1 ( 10 foot length ) that is outstanding price...!! since i pay that for a 3/4 round 3ft at fastenal uphere... thanks again Greg

can i ask where your source is for that in Hamilton ? ... i usually get my W1 from fastenal... its timken.. but like you said, i don't need it in drill rod....it would be better just rolled and in 1 inch rounds.. thanks Greg

borax or antifreeze works very good to stop mold and fungus.... theres the other glycol that works aswell.. ( forgot the name...?? its not poisonous like antifreeze ) an if that isn't good enough.. what bout pine tar.. ? somethin like this stuff PINE TAR PINT 103266 take care Greg

100ft of 1" wrought in good shape.. that is Fantastic .. and i get excited over a half worn out slaggy wagon wheel.. wish my luck would change:) were the fasteners made of wrought aswell.. .. might be cool to polish one up and etch

usta use liquid wrench ..but now PB blaster beat that hands down.. tried all the home remedies.. there for the most part useless.. from kero to atf, to hot wax, to citric acid.. etc if the pb doesn't work in a couple days... then heat with torch by the way...if your going to test ... then allow the rust to occur under natural conditions for 15 years... then apply the treatments.... otherwise i can't see a salt water test to be applicable ( as i've never had anything sit in salt water ).... maybe the results are good for folks that live in coastal areas..;)

just a quick question.. what size thickness on 12" pipe ? 1/8" ?.. and what paint is good to stop the sulphur from eating it away.. - i'm just bout to order my pipe.. finally:D

maybe they pounded the die key in with a 20lbs sledge... yikes:o it would be a heck of a job to fix... i'd save the 2k for a decent hammer or a real rebuild from LG hammer...... the price for this one is terrible.... try 150 bucks:mad:

i think that price is a steal... as long as the shaft still spins and there is no cracks in the cast frame... its right on nice Greg

cool..all i did to move mine was use a bunch of 3/4" rod and stuck it under the base and rolled her accross the shop.... then use a pile of wood plank's to raise it 1/4 " at a time till it was the height of the base... and used the same rods to roller over the mounting bolts... then with a large wrecking bar slowly jacked up and pulled out plank by plank till it was safely down.... oh and i slinged up the top half to the roof beams with a come along... just so the top would be kept straight up and down... didn't want it to tetter back n forth.. i poured my base... but i wanted something that would cut the vibes down as i live right next to a neighbour.. but i know several people without.. just timbers... even one thats so lucy goosy on wood that it rocks back n forth like a craddle... ( just bizarre ) man.. i'm excited for you... this is great Greg

good luck on it i can't think of a happier day, then when i got my 50lbs hammer.. sorry to hear about your loss.... take care Greg ps.. man, those hammers are heavy... hope you have some help

that was an awesome response... right on bros !!!!!

yes that is...

sorry to hear it DM. i'm way up north and i have to order everything in... its a pain..... the crucibles are usually bout 50 bucks - unless you have a local source of high temp fireclay.. and alot of time to read up on complex ceramics... i think you may have to wait a little till more pieces of the puzzle fall in place.. if you look around ...there are some archae papers on Indian crucibles and European crucibles ( Hessian crucibles) for melting steel.. these were all made of clay..... google around for that good luck G

Hi DM your question about the hardware store... i'd say no...but the pottery store may have some ingredients that'll hold up... actually making your own crucibles is sort of an art.... i've tried and with disappointing results.. ..your much better off to buy a decent clay graphite crucible from a casting supply store and then get on with the melting... also.. you can dip something into liquid iron or steel... i do it all the time with a long 1/4 rod to see if the charge is fully liquid.... alway preheat anything that goes near the liquid steel/iron to drive off any moisture at all.... as you know, water is your enemy here... by the way... you'd be much better off to just cutt the cable up and stick in all in the crucible and melt it completely... then no risk at all..... - the heat in a crucible furnace needed to melt iron is on the high side...and it does demand your attention... in my opinion, i'd definitely keep the melting and forging operations separate.... ... Greg

i'll give it a try... first i'll find out the costs.. before jumping in.. i saw on Mr Hansons site that his 100lbs LG is runnin the double belts like you said.. Sunfish Forge Don Hanson Shop Tour that 100 is a nice looking machine He said on another forum that he got his belts from MSC bout 10 years ago

hi thanks for the help.. i wanted to keep the leather belt... but its getting to be a pain.. I think i'll do something like you said... run a rubber belt and v pulley on the drive.... heres some pic's of my hammer and set up.. the drive on mine is flat..and no crown.. so i bet thats cause some trouble.... .... personally..i'd like to have the peace of mind and have it run and without worrying about the leather belt popping off and the worst moment.. ;)

just a question the flat belt on my 50lbs hammer keeps flying off all the time... does the main pulley need to have a crown on it... and how much - and i heard that rubber belts are way better and less problem... would it be worth it to switch.. thanks for the belt links..

Hi the thimble should be about 3/4" od... and its basically for a pommel cap for a sword that i'm making... the sword type is a shamshir and the pommel cap is called a kollah. i'll try beveling the die some more and see if that works.. thanks for the ideas... it has to be of one piece.. i'll see what i can come up with.. Greg;)

Hi i'm trying to make a ferrule.. its basically a thimble ... I'm using thin flat iron sheet stock and a very rounded punch .... and pressing the sheet into an enlarged hole.. - i keep getting the sheet in aways...maybe 1/2 inch... then all of a sudden it starts to shear.... even though there is plenty of room on the sides of the form.........tried with heat, cold, going slow, small taps.. larger hole... still same outcome.. is there a blueprint on how to do this for a similar shape.. ... i know if i had some pitch and tried raising it that way it would work.. but i don't have any on hand and its a one of type job... ( so i'd rather not waste money ) appreciate any help Greg

is it like a fluidizing bed ? interesting link. thanks

sweet... !!!! thats an annular cutter..

i see theres a small one on the ebay NICE 72 # BLACKSMITH ANVIL - (eBay.ca item 170312946941 end time 26-Mar-09 10:42:20 EDT)

actually ... couple years back before he bought out the biz... i used to buy my coal from the old owners.. it was very good coal.. .. and i enjoyed using it for many years... super easy to make a welding fire.. but now for me its way cheaper to buy propane.. which kills me because propane is a lousy fuel for blacksmithing... .. good for bladesmithing when i was there the MBA did make an order every once and awhile... and it was the same coal, just cheeper without the middle man taking a nice fat slice... - from what i remember they have to get a truck load of it...so they wait till enough people get in on it, then make the order.. also......there are several MBA memebers that are from your area NB .. Mr.Peuramaki is out that way... ( very good fellow ) .... it maybe a good idea to join... it would help, as people out there alway have a line on some nice coal..... even forge equipment good luck