dimenickel

like the rounded top collars .. they really look nice on the gate ! -are you closing them up with a wood mallet, or pinching them shut with tongs... i see no hammer marks at all .. ( which is nicely done !!! ) Greg

very handy... I immediately see the benefit ! If i forge from the right side of anvil, i'll no longer have to buy a right sided hammer..... just switch sides and grab the right side handle wish i would have thought of that years ago ... i'm alway the last to catch onto these new trends ;)

there usta be one forsale on the machineco website... under forging hammers.. other than that, haven't seen one in person .. and don't know how they hit.... the reg beaudry hits very nice, much harder than the kinyons i've seen also there was one in the kijiji , 2 or so years back, in Ont... had a painted frame they looked rather robust ... i would think it would be a very nice hammer to have !! Greg

in a honda accord ?? i can see that piece putting the bumper of your car on the ground.... better be safe n rent a pick up for the day... i'd hate to see you mess up the car if it were me, and the boss gave the ok... i'd have that outa there in 20 minutes ... man, what a scoop !

more like chinese water torture... drip drip drip.. but why didn't he at least heat the iron up hotter.... and maybe it wouldn't be such a dog (or less of a dog )

truly 1 in a million ! caught me by surprise when he passed on very intelligent, with character I still feel that its wrong that he's not around Ferrous of them all !

thanks for the kind comments Daniel, i did a tutorial on it long time ago... its on primal fires http://primalfires.yuku.com/topic/1950/Tutorial-on-making-wootz-crucible-steel the process has evolved a little but still it should give you a good idea of steel making - if you have more questions..... fire away ! i can talk all day about steel making Greg

here is a close up of the hilt http://www.northshoreforge.com/page2/photos-3/files/page5-1015-full.html sort of work in progress http://www.northshoreforge.com/page2/photos-3/index.html Close ups of the pattern http://www.northshoreforge.com/page2/photos-3/photos-7/files/page10-1002-full.html http://www.northshoreforge.com/page2/photos-3/photos-7/index.html it is a difficult material to work with, and occasionally you are rewarded with a nice pattern Greg

here is my latest sword it is made of wootz crucible steel, 36.5" long, with distal taper etched in dilute nitric acid to reveal the pattern 1.6% carbon steel

Hi John the heat is bad !! but i can say that the induction forge didn't add much to that... I'll say that its really taking over much of the forge work... I've got to get some more copper pipe and make more coils... Hi Daniel I got this heater from Larry at Monstermetal ... he's bringing them in ... he was very good to deal with ! take care Greg

worked on a billet 3 bars of 8layers twisted .. wrought iron 1 bar of 8670/1095 for cutting edge twisted welded it up yesterday in the forge works pretty good for a weird gizmo

Hi got one of those beeping machines ! made a video heating a iron rod... about 3/4 inch up to a white heat in no time at all heating a piece of wrought iron up to a sparkling heat... got some borax on it and it melts fast so far i've welded up a couple billets of damascus... it forgewelds very nicely... also i've twisted a couple of bars in it... which is easily done - you have to get a coil that is somewhat close to the work size... but for making knives like i do... its no prob at all

i don't know bout hickory, but i use the runners off of wooden palette/skids... they are usually hardwood... oak or maple ! just cuttem, shapem on belt grinder, an finish em they way you like ( i like 50/50 mix pin tar and linseed oil ) oddly, they often don't need replacing after that... hickory is over rated G

ouch.. glad your ok i'd mount that sucker on the wall ... a good reminder of the one that almost gotcha either that or make it into a nice hawk that you can keep.. what are the odds it'll try to get ya again ... err... i'm not a lucky person, so i'd just probably go with the first option ... nobody said this was a safe business to be in.. :wacko:

nice ! i like your twisting jig... that is a good idea and i bet it would be good on small iron aswell...since the vice steals the heat super fast on thin stock very nice gate... very good to see the work that goes into this

thats bigger than a 50 its a one piece though.... i've seen a 150lbs up close and it was a 2 piece looks like a 100lbs...a nos.4 ????

Nice video and right to the point ! good stuff

sweet, very cool diamond shape thanks for showing

i've done them with a " d " bit... you make it out of small precision drill rod and harden the end .... same bits you use to make bag pipes http://www.bagpipeworld.co.uk/bagpipe/making/drill.html get the small drill rod at fastenal.. the usually have it in a display stand it helps to make a drill guide ... so your feeding the bit in straight to the center of the wood... the more figure your wood has, the more tendency the bit has to wander.. good luck, its not easy to get straight G

i have pictures of it in the shop, somewhere..... had to take some as i thought it was the nicest lookin hammer i've seen the main shop hammer was a 50lbs LG, and a friend bought that one up... it had seen some hard use... top end bearings are totally washed out... not gonna argue with what the old owner said...... just that i know otherwise by the way... about 2 years ago there was another 300lb in southern ontario... that was for sale at 5500 on kijiji for a long time... didn't hear anything lately bout it the beaudry's are rare up here in Canada, nice to see some still running

Nice hammer, I also wanted to pick it up... but it was in a very difficult to pick location at the lunenberg forge... seemed like the building was built around it .... originally, the owner started at 6500 for it and went all the way down to 3500 last i checked - also as far as i know.. the old owner never ran the hammer at all ! from the iron work that he did, nothing came remotely close to needing that size hammer I'm so glad it didn't go to the godless scrappers ... It musta cost an arm and a leg to get it rigged out of that building.. that musta taken some doing very lucky to have such a nice hammer..

thanks for the safety tip i'm having trouble finding a wire wheel that actually lasts... they seem to lose their wires too quickly ... so far i don't have any luck finding it

agreed ...forgeweld is good.. or i use 6010 rod to join a billet to a mild iron rod

myself ...i'd stay away from temper colors.. its not accurate... temper in an oven and hold for 2 hrs... cool and repeat -as you don't really know what alloy your dealing with - one looked like the grain was abit coarse good luck

whoa jeez, Matt hit it on the nail..... thats some big grain growth you have there... i'd be brittle no matter whatcha do normalize it several times.. ... heat just to non-mag and let cool down to room temp... ( grain grows the higher the temp/time ) then heat to non-mag and quench... crack it in two, and you should have a much finer grain... break a file in two... look how silky smooth the grain is, now that is what you want it to look like... good luck