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Hi J good that you came out alright... it musta been the week for " die trouble"... i'd just finish fitting and seating my die keys... ( using the blue and scrapping the high points for a tight fit) ..... guess i didn't think anything about it but my guides were dripping oil down into the dovetail..... and i tapped the key in and didn't check the channel... -- later on when i was squaring up a diamond shaped bar... forging it on ends.... BANG... top die shot off the hammer and hit the far wall.. ... i mean its only a 50lbs hammer, what could go wrong... - brake cleaned the groove and the dies stayed in fine... no problem pushing it hard... maybe tellin these things will keep other safe take care Greg

no experience with it.. just remember this fellow posted some coins he made awhile back.. they looked real sweet Tom Maringer Home Page could be interesting to email him aswell, or look at his work shop tour

thats bad news to hear.. my condolences to the family

Absolutely awesome !!! very fortunate... .. envious here... very ! John, we don't have to tell you or do we.... make a proper baseblock for it and do the maintenance.. just teasin, bros

Hi J over on the east coast...in halifax area..... .. i believe it'll get stored this year as the hammer gets pulled in 3 to 4 weeks... theres abit of time for him to plan it.. and the shop layout definitely, i'll tell him to look up John for that stuff... he's been a great help ! Greg

Hi yep... talked to him abit... and its paid up... little more than 4 with the fee's and such.. but still a honey of a deal Thomas, i already got to him and he's going to put up a new shop ( it was already in the works but now its much more ) ...and a proper base block for it.. .... i've no doubt he's going to look after it... ;)

thank you John... that was extremely helpful I knew i couldn't get it at the moment but a very close friend ( like a bros ) needed this one.. ( he's getting back into big gates n fences )... gave him a hint on what to bid, and gee whiz, he'd followed my advice and has the hammer..... i knew it had to have been in top shape... the dnd usually maintains everything on schedule.. could barely understand him on the phone when he called... ... man... a real Mint shape Massey... does it get any better.. Greg ps.. i did get the invite to use it when i want... thats definitely something i'll do:D:D

yep.... its a 200lbs hammer.. a friend snapped it up and he's ontop of the world..;)

what size hammer is it.. .. ? they don't say in their description . looks like its in mint shape

i did a little googling and found abit... looks like they run it on a line shaft from above.. Conway Tool & Forge - Power Hammer NJBA Meet at Bruce Ringier's April 2004 Mystic Seaport Museum photos - Bladesmith's Forum Board

Hi that was the fun part... basically pb blaster till it loosens up... use a wire with a flat hammered on the end and try to loosen it up... by diggin in the gallery did the same with the grease fitting on mine.... worked out the old solid grease and ran 80/90 oil through it for a couple days while running it... then refilled with new grease.. i got some pic's of mine... ofcourse its a different brand of hammer but it'll give you an idea Greg notice the hole ontop of the guide.... it lead internally to the v on the channel and has a hole to the back of the guide.... i fill em up with 80/90 at the start of the day... the hammer works nice n easy now...

that was my thinking.. i see alot of people switch out the flats for rubber v belts..... i had trouble setting mine up but after that i really like the way the flat belt works.. great machines.. ah now that i see what you mean about the slack belt clutch.... rubber would definitely be out of the question

greasy is a good thing... at least someone cared in the past to keep it maintained.. mine has little oil holes here and there... just like previously mentioned... on the guides, it has little criss cross channels for the oil to follow the top bearings on mine have a weird sort of grease cup... you fill it with grease and turn the top to give the bearings a shot of lube.. i did chase all the oil galleries... as some of them were plugged solid with about 60years worth of crud... are you gonna keep it with the flat belt ? Greg

maybe steadite... goes liquidy around 970 cel

just my story.. i installed a 50lbs beaudry/stockwell hammer in my garage which is bout 20feet away from my neighbours.. .. i was real worried about it and i emailed john several times.. he sent me to fabreeka and i got some pads.. -looked at the 50lbs Little giant plan/baseblock - then i cut the slab.. dug it out... poured a cement sleeve..... then put the pads in there and poured 14 wheel barrows of cement for the baseblock with anchor rods... and pads on the sidewall.. so the baseblock never comes in contact with anything.... put one layer of marine plywood down and then mounted the hammer to the baseblock anchor bolts.. -- when i run the hammer full out.. it doesn't shake the shop at all.. .. and the noise is the virtually the same as when i hammer on the anvil.. - it was great to see the look on my neighbours face when he saw what i was running in the shop... he had no clue.. and i was very very glad to put in the effort.. besides.... i've tried 50lb LG's on timber and they don't hit as hard .... so.. i've got 1 install under my belt.. so take my story for what it is...my beginners experience ;) take care n good luck Greg

take care Frosty.. prayers sent !!! i hope for a full recovery.. i alway liked reading his posts.. :(

is this what you mean Urban Dictionary: rtft if so... i don't care for your attitude.. .... clean that up abit... actually after reading abit more about iron absorption ... its a complex problem... Iron Absorption if you can't find the pure iron bar... what getting some of that Armco pure iron powder, or hoeganaes iron powder and doing a type of canister weld.... then you'd have the barstock to make the bracelet..... they may even have some pressed barstock scraps if you email them ( may get lucky ) Hoeganaes Corporation: Prealloyed Iron Powder Metallurgy, Atomized Iron and Steel Powder, Stainless Steel Powder also... ebay sometimes has the pure iron powder.. or other pure iron samples.. that maybe a way to get it... good luck ....sounds like an interesting project Greg

O1 is a deep hardening steel... while 1095 is very shallow -not such a good combo the 15n20 goes well with 1080 ..and welds like a dream... if you keep the 1080 on the outsides, its easy to stick it to itself when you fold.... no Ni oxides to deal with save your O1 for L6... which are both deep hardening and move at similar rates besides.. the O1 is expensive... for a sacrificial plate ?..... the 1095 is very cheap and welds a heck of alot easier... it would be a much better choice Greg

i'll fire up the woodstove and then the forge... heat up some 1/4 plates and lie it on the face... till the face is above 0 - mostly i'll work the heavy irons first...and that'll heat the anvil up nicely....so later on its not so bad with the small stuff.. - use mostly the smaller anvils in the winter... the 125lbers... generailly i bring a 5 gallon bucket into the shop for a quench.... then dump it out after the day its also important to heat up the tools... i've had 3 hammer handles shatter to splinters in -40 cel .. .. i'll bring in my good ones to warm up ahead of forging.. i wear some insulated canvas bib pants... .. try to stay away from any nylon skidoo suites... my shop is well insulated... that really helps cut down on the wood used and keeps it cool in the summer... Greg

i'd still be looking for the right medicine... otherwise i'm not sure a bracelet would do much at all... New Form Of Intravenous Iron Treats Anemia In Chronic Kidney Disease Patients On Dialysis maybe good or maybe not... i'd still search med news and journals to find a solution Greg

putting that silicone caulking underneath the anvil is one of the better tricks...then solidly strapping it down to the stump.... - the silicone just deadens the ring and isn't to hold it.. - heard that trick from Alan L and it worked to cut down the noisy from my 125lb pw... it rang like a super high ting ting... - now its a pleasure to work on ...and its post goes bout 2.5 feet under ground.... tried all the other remedies... and thats about the only good i can say about them.. Greg;)

thanks... i see the paint does help.. and a 12" pipe about 10 foot long would be good... i guess the thickness doesn't matter... i can't see anywheres were it was a concern or doesn't make a big difference Greg

Hi i'm just about to order a pipe for coal forge ( ordering next week no matter what ) ... I'd like to do a side draft.. and was thinking of a 10inch pipe by about 12 to 16 foot long... ... ..would that give a decent draw? - i'd like to get one that would last awhile... what gauge thickness would be good.. 18 gauge.. - and would painting it make a difference in how long it would last... i usta use that hardware store chimney pipe... and that thin stuff only lasts bout 2 years before rustin to pieces appreciate any help Greg

thanks for the heads up on that.. phosgene gas ... that is scary.. Phosgene - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia i remember reading that some parts washer fluids should be kept away from UV from welding.. ... maybe thats along the same lines.. Greg zinc .... not even on the map compared to phosgene......

isn't there a course in haliburton Artist Blacksmith | Fleming College | there you go Greg