MotoMike

I am not sure what it is called but it helps me make the 90 degrees in the brackets for my gate bolt. And I made a pritchel plate too, finally finding a use for a rail plate I had laying around.

A friend of mine gave me 4 sets of tongs today. One of them is quite large and heavy. probably more than I can get in my forge. the others will likely be useful. They show sings of being blacksmith made I think 3 of them have had the reins forge welded on. What is the intended function of the set with one hooked jaw?

Built a fullering tool. Not sure if it has a name, but plan on using it like a spring fuller. I have not yet rounded the dies. considering leaving a flat section as well. with the staggered spacings I can get from about 1/4 up to 5 inches in 1/2 inch increments.

Nice Shawn. will the unsupported area be useful? For convex?

Thanks I used a Milwaukee deep cut when I worked as an electrician at a corn plant. I was amazed at what it could do. This one is 10 amp and if I recall, the Milwaukee was 6 amp, so all things being equal this one should be more powerful. and this one has a infinitely variable speed from 100 to 360 fpm I think.

Picked up a lightly used DeWalt DWM120 bandsaw. works like a champ. what blades do you recommend for cutting steel stock?

Looks great Jonah. sort of mid century modern look.

Casey. Not yet but you are close. I did attend an open class where it was mostly independent study up north of Freeport. he had two gas and two coal forges set up in a barn. if you needed guidance he would help out or if you know what you are doing and don't have a forge you can work on your own. I'll get the number and post it tonight if you want. I've attended a demonstration day at the Smithy in Pioneer village in Scott County Park also. all coal forges there.

Thanks Latticino. It is getting warmer so my forge maintenance is just around the corner. going to make the opening bigger and repair any cracks or dings in the refractory. I have bumped it with work quit a lot and see some cracks. I want the hole just a bit bigger so that I can reach the back of the forge with a gloved hand to apply refractory. It was a pain on the initial build. interesting that your set up reads high. In researching I cam across literature on the Omega Site that showed only their stainless shielded probe to be accurate at these temps and I think there were 4 brand x's there with it and they all read around 30 degrees low at the high temps we're talking about.

Thanks shawn and Frosty Works like the proverbial champ. I might make it a bit longer next time so it fits the hand better. this one had about 3 inches removed.

Thank you Latticino. All very good information. I had the notion of putting the probe though a port so that it enters the forge at the top and between the opening and the burner port about 3 inches from each. Wondered if it is solely the temperature or the atmosphere that attacks the thermocouple. have considered the wells you mention. would having the thermocouple about a quarter inch into the forge then sealed from atmosphere with a couple coats of Satinite, protect it?

thanks Buzz

thanks Wulf

had this in the forge while I was working on a pritchel plate so I had something to do while the plate was heating.

I have a 6, 7.25, 8.5 and 9.5" Not a chef, but avid home cook. I find that the 8.5 is my go to despite the 6 being a really fine quality hand made knife. . those 4 are all of the gyuto type. a profile that comes to a fine point is more useful to me. I have found little use for santoku and have relegated it to the unused drawer. I think experienced chef's tend to like the 240 (9.5) How much room and how bit your cutting board is matters too. all very personal

thanks Thomas. what are axles typically made of? Thanks Latticino, sounds like maybe I should finish building my grinder first. .

Will be stopping by Steel Mart next week. I want to make a hammer eye drift. probably for hammers in the 2 to 3.5 pound range. I don't have a heat treat oven so would want something not too tricky to heat treat. What steel and what size would be ideal to make one out of? They let me look around the drops so I might find something already cut. Also wanting to make a hammer eye punch from a ball peen. I've a couple abused specimens I think about 16 oz and about 28 oz. Or should I go shopping? thanks in advance.

looks good to me. I wish I'd have put my burner in off center.

Thanks Frosty. I guess I tried light setting twice and thought I had it. I'll try a couple more times before getting serious. Thanks Buzz , not sure what you are telling me.

Thanks Mikey98118 and timgunn1962 I am trying to forge weld mild steel for decorative items. door knockers in the present example. it is a cheap Chinese pyrometer, K type rated at 1350C 2375F. the tip is exposed and has ceramic beads along the two thick wire leads up to a ceramic disc with wire lugs to make the connections. . not much of a setup as the probe is laying on the porch with about 4 inches of it reaching into the forge at the side of the opening and the tip is resting on the floor. we have discussed my forge before and it was noted that my dragons breath was reducing to a great degree. pictures of the interior of the forge and the probe always seem blown out and white so I did not think they would be useful. that is to say the pictures seem to make it look hotter than looking at it does. It was earlier noted that I put a smaller reducer on my burner than Reil called for. since it did seem to do the job, I did not change it, though did go to a size 59 from a size 57 jet. It is getting warmer and I guess I will plan on a maintenance day. I wanted to enlarge the front opening a bit anyway and check the interior for some of the dings it has suffered at my hand. I will get there.

another spike repurpose.

Thanks Shawn. do you mean the clips shown in the OP? thanks. There are some others shown down aways. Mike

based on color I'd have guessed it was. after it is up to temp, the whole interior is a light yellow. several attempts to forge weld have not been successful. cleaning, fluxing, giving it plenty of soak time, and lightly attempting to set the weld before hitting it hard. most recently thought I had a half inch ring welded, felt nice and solid. when trying to blend the seams, it popped loose. I thought that perhaps I do understand the technique but I'm just not hot enough. I obtained a thermocouple rated for 2375°f. It has an 8 inch probe. I set it at the door with the probe reaching into the interior about 4 inches where it rests on the forge floor. it reads a little over 2100. would the be the temperature of the whole interior, or would it get hotter in the center? it is not an Omega, but Omega's literature shows all its competitors are reading about 30 degrees low at this temp. your thoughts are appreciated. Mike

I think I have it now. thanks

@Frosty would you have some pictures of those handles you describe?. I think I can picture it, but not sure.