brian.pierson

Gobbler, I found that using the new post tab/button/thing at the top of the window allowed me to stay on top of topics i was interested in. i don't have to read every forum to see what is new. it is fast and allows me to pick the topics I want to read. just a suggestion. As always, mileage may vary and what works for one doesn't always work for another. Brian

Kai, Take a look at these two resourses on the web Workshop Report on the integration of population education into programmes for rural youth in Zimbabwe Agricultural engineering in development They were produced by Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations as blacksmithing manuals. They might have what you are looking for. Hope they help Brian

Check out centaur forge. they sell a cast replacement Tuyere for $25.

Hello, Not to cause a flame war but you do not need a vacuum or cent setup for one ring. There is the old way of doing lost wax investment casting. Do a search for steam casting. You do need a burnout kiln to remove the wax. That is why it is called lost wax. I did this as a starving college student so the cost is not excessive if you are looking for a one off. Everyone's comment on hot metal is dead on.. Caution and patience are the watchwords here. Good luck Brian This is a partial book I found on Google which has some info on steam casting but more sources are out there. http://books.google.com/books?id=e_09Enaf4tIC&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=lost+wax+steam+casting&source=bl&ots=YpcRkvlM3I&sig=9hckgQXSgeLf6c4CXTmGBq64XOg&hl=en&ei=2fcWSuWzCoSItgfJ8tHjDA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=6#PPR9,M1

Frosty, Sorry that should have been PH for power hammer

Frosty, We are thinking 8 by 16 to 10 by 20. We were thinking a 6 inch slab from the beginning. I do have experience in concrete work and form set up. Engineering a pour and the thickness is what I lack experience in except a few sidewalks. That is why I was asking about thickness for needed for the given weight load of a brick hearth and chimney. I don't think we will get fancy with different thickness within the pour except for the possible PW area. A power hammer is possible in the future so we were thinking of leaving a hole in the concrete for an isolation block. The hole will get filled to the top with gravel so there is no tripping issue. I know it is going to be a rough guess where we want it. We are working that out by laying out the known equipment and moving it all around on the floor plan. I guess I have watched too much HGTV home shows LOL. If we get a PW then we can drop the depth of the hole to what we need and rebar/pour to fill. I have used the fiber sheathing that goes under the siding of a house for forming out an isolation line. Usually as a slab to slab iso for side walks, where it is the dividing line. This helps prevent a slab from cracking as it settles as well as expansion/shrinking from local weather conditions. I like this better than normal ply or foam as it compresses better than ply and is not fragile as foam. Thanks again all, This place is great. Brian

Not meaning to hijack the thread but I have a question about flooring thickness in a smithy. I am working on pricing out a smithy at my brother's house. He has the land to build it on. We were talking about how thick the floor needed to be under the forge and under the anvil. I have a 350 lb Fisher on a 2 foot oak cube so roughly 450 to 500 ish lbs when in one place. Should I double the thickness in the area to accommodate it? The forge itself will be a angle iron frame with a centaur forge vulcan firepot and hand crank blower. I just got the pot this week so need to have it welded up. I plan on using a firebrick bed in the forge on top of the metal bed. He would like a brick forge but I don't think that is in our budget. How thick would we need the floor to be if that was built in the future? This is in central Indiana. Thanks for any comments or advice. This thread already has given me a lot of food for thought. Brian

2Dogs, Is it necessary for the project you have in mind to remove the paint? If it isn't, it is probably not worth either the chemicals needed for the removal or the time. Just my 2 cents and worth as much Brian

Donnie, This is just a thought. Can you detach the blower from its stand? Depending on the amount of portability you want, you could attach it to the table so you don't have to pack the stand around also. I don't know if you have enough room on the forge table but a bracket might give you the room. Looks like a solid project and very usable as it stands. Brian

Youngster, Take a look at this site. Charcoal Forge He has partial instructions on clay for a forge. Hope it helps. brian

All, Here is the ultimate EBAY anvil. It actually looks to be in good shape. Rare 750 lb West Anvil Blacksmith - eBay (item 170329295190 end time May-13-09 12:14:53 PDT) Brian

Dual, Do a search in the gallery for PhilsDrills and Champion. There is a picture of what he did. Brian

Brian, Thanks for the pictures it really helped visualize the action. How thick is the plate? I guess the plate has to to be thicker than the largest thickness it will shear? Brian

USUALLY this means it will cost x to ship but local pickup is okay and the seller will not charge shipping. It is always best to write the seller to confirm. I would expect shipping that low would be to a terminal closest to you and you still have to pick up there. If you work at a place that has a shipping dock then it might be that to get to you. Brian

All, I found these listings on Ebay and wanted to let everyone know about them. The gentleman appears to be a retiring blacksmith in Alabama. He has three offerings in the blacksmith area. 1. A 200lb kohlswa anvil currently going for $309 US blacksmithanvil 200lb,Sweden Kohlswa - eBay (item 320364245538 end time May-05-09 05:25:39 PDT) 2. A power hammer ABNO SWEDEN currently $610US blacksmithing machine hammer - eBay (item 320364253233 end time May-05-09 05:59:20 PDT) 3. A collection of his tools currently $308US large numbers of blacksmithing tools - eBay (item 320364259233 end time May-05-09 06:25:04 PDT) I wanted to throw this out to the list as the auctions will be over in under 2 days. The pictures look good. Hope this is useful. Brian

Jayco, My High school's track surface was all clinker from a coal burner. Ugly scars if you fell at speed. Of course I grew up in strip mine coal country so what else was there to do with it. It was the 70s and country area so the EPA didn't know we existed. Brian

Ruben' Take a look at this website. Box Bellows It is for a box bellows that has a two way action like the description of the round one. Hope it helps Brian

My guess it is a linesman tool for crimping collars around wire cable.

Junker, When I first started out, I purchased my cross pein in a home depot type store. I have seen them in our local one in Indiana. might be worth looking there. I don't remember the size i saw. Just an FYI. Brian

There is a picture just posted showing down draft forges. Not exactly your make but Buffalo Ny forges. There was a coal bin on one side and a slack tub on the other. Here is the link http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/nice-old-picture-anvil-chorus-11123/ Brian

Okay so the forges are buffalo forges with a supplied air blast from a central air line. The exhaust was sucked out through a pipe in the pedestal. I think I see one drill press in the back under the machinery. I wonder if the machinery is also the source of the air blast and or the vacuum for the exhaust? Obviously, one machine wouldn't do both. But there seems to be two honking electric motors so one for supply and one for exhaust. I can make out two Fisher & Norris Anvils, I think. On the far left, I see the bolt downs on the feet and I believe the eagle. On the far right, just above the tear, I think it is the eagle again. I have seen some of this gear in the old school text books from the time period but it is so cool to see them set up and in use. Layout diagrams just doesn't give you the feel the picture does. Thanks for sharing it. Brian

All, Check this thread if you want to look at a set of drawings for an App "Krusty" style hammer. The dimensions are in metric but they are a complete set. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f43/power-hammer-plans-3620/ Brian

Chris, While not 100% the same, take a look at copper/silversmithing sites or books for examples/process of raising. It will at least give you a idea of the starting point. Copper and Silver are usually done cold. Brian

I am planning on going over there this weekend. originally, I was scheduled to work so was hoping for last weekend but things flipped flopped. I tried to find the place on google maps but it just puts me at the edge of Potosi. Does anyone have better directions to it? Brian

Thomas, I was wondering if you called ahead to set up an appointment or if it is open now? I figured out that I am about 4 hours away but right now booked up the weekend of the sale. I was thinking of going over next weekend if it is possible. Thanks in advance Brian